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Power location for reverse camera and monitor

ZZZZZZCOBRA1

New member
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Location
St Louis, MO
Looking for some input from you guys. I installed a reverse camera and a monitor that works for 24 volts. I need to grab power for both the monitor and also the camera. I was thinking of installing a Power Distribution Terminal Bus Bar near the engine firewall and basically grab power from a source "IE, Battery?" to run to this bar and then power all my switches hot wires from this bar with a separate wire each. Looking to use this bar for later applications like extra lights, reverse lights etc.. Where have you guys successfully pulled power from? Where would you recommend that I pull power from to power this distribution bar??
 

Carrera911

Active member
138
31
28
Location
Cumming, Georgia
Looking for some input from you guys. I installed a reverse camera and a monitor that works for 24 volts. I need to grab power for both the monitor and also the camera. I was thinking of installing a Power Distribution Terminal Bus Bar near the engine firewall and basically grab power from a source "IE, Battery?" to run to this bar and then power all my switches hot wires from this bar with a separate wire each. Looking to use this bar for later applications like extra lights, reverse lights etc.. Where have you guys successfully pulled power from? Where would you recommend that I pull power from to power this distribution bar??
I have my battery balancer and 12 volt fused distribution box in the unused compartment next to the batteries. There’s a few convenient large holes to run wires out and along the frame rail to wherever you’re looking to go. If you need power to the interior go out said hole and through the radio plug near the doghouse. I traced the unused radio plug onto some 1/8 in aluminum plate and cut it out to run wires through.

I used a blue sea systems fuse box. They have a wide range of marine rated distribution bars and fuse boxes of various sizes available on Amazon. You could tap the 24v positive on the battery with an inline fuse to the distribution box or a fuse box with individual secondary fuses.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

papakb

Well-known member
2,285
1,185
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Location
San Jose, Ca
It's not a good idea to pull 12V from the low side battery even for something as low powered as a backup camera. The best solutions are either a voltage dropper (regulator) or a battery management unit like Carrera911 mentioned. Most of them are small units that will fit down inside the battery compartment beneath the passenger seat. Mine is mounted on the underside of the radio shelf. The simplest way to mount the camera is on the license plate frame and I mounted the display on a RAM mount on the heater crossover duct in the lower right corner of my drivers windshield where it doesn't block anything more than the right airlift shackle.
 

papakb

Well-known member
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1,185
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Location
San Jose, Ca
Some of the best battery management systems are made by Vanner here: http://www.vanner.com/products/

Victron is also a good option here:
http://shop.pkys.com/Victron-Battery-Management-System-BMS-12200_p_6672.html

Battery management systems are expensive but they will keep the charging and current draw from your batteries well balanced.

Regulators or voltage droppers are much less expensive and can be found easily on sites like Ebay.

The advantage of a voltage dropper is that it draws power from both batteries equally rather than just from one battery when you connect 12V units to the low side battery.

You
never want to draw 12V from the high side battery because a short in the system can cause an electrical fire.
 
Last edited:

Carrera911

Active member
138
31
28
Location
Cumming, Georgia
To be clear to the op what I said tapping the positive on the 24v positive will work fine if what you’re adding is 24v. I only mentioned the balancer because that is what my distro box is connected to. For your application it isn’t necessary unless you’re looking to add 12v accessories.

As a side note my balancer is a sure power 40 amp unit that was about $150 on eBay IIRC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

papakb

Well-known member
2,285
1,185
113
Location
San Jose, Ca
ZZZZZZCOBRA1 did and then you brought up the 12V side of things in your post. Then Pierreab asked about balancer specs in his post. It's really not an issue as long as people read the whole forum and understand that we're talking about separate issues.​

I'm running a 100 amp Vanner unit in my 996A1.
 
Last edited:

Recon1172

New member
8
3
0
Location
Snellville, Ga
For the monitor, I grabbed 24v from the batteries. I sliced into the tail lights for the camera power. That way it’s always on when the lights are on. It’s a 24 volt system off of Amazon for 65 dollars. It looks to be the same model Federal Military Parts sells for 200. It came with a wireless option for the camera, but that part was 12v so I didn’t use it.
 

ZZZZZZCOBRA1

New member
39
0
0
Location
St Louis, MO
Thanks guys for the input. I finished it up tonight. I grabbed 24 volts from the battery post. Ran this power to a distribution block that I mounted on the firewall opposite the heater control. Then ran power to my switches from there. Haven't driven it yet but camera works great in the garage.
 
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