Priming for Gillespie

[red devils dude]

I was looking at auto paint books at the book store yesterday I couldnt
really find one I liked but then I saw a John Deere tractor restoration book
that had a ton of good paint info for stuff like you'd do for a MV like painting
over old solid paint in it they(the writers) said the only primer for less then
prepared surface was a epoxy primer so my question is what should work
better over a less then perfectly prepared surface a oil based zinc phosphate primer like Gillespie's Red Oxide III or a epoxy primer?

 

[Low-Tech-Redneck]

Red oxide primer has worked great for us, we bought it from, geeze, what was the name? Some auto paint and restoration place, ends with -wood...

EASTWOOD

They have a red oxide primer and rust encapsulator you can buy by the buckeload, did both the trailer and the truck before putting the GCI 383 on, to date, no rust and it's been outside all winter.

 

[red devils dude]

thanks Low-Tech I'm on there site now.

 

[area52]

Hey Low Tech - how did you strip the old stuff off? did you make it clean or leave some of the hard stuff on there?


Wade

 

[Low-Tech-Redneck]

Nope, went over the truck from one end to the other with wire wheels, then did it again with a block sander untill there wasn't a jagged edge to be found. Depending on how rough and patchy the old coat was, sometimes that was just the last layer of paint, and other times, it was down to bare metal

 

[area52]

So how long did that take ya?

 

[Low-Tech-Redneck]

The truck took about 5 days to completely do, clean, strip, prime, paint, and an extra 2 days for the trailer. That also included pulling down the troop seats, sanding, varnishing and painting those, and doing the same to the bows.

 

[readyman]

I didn't have any luck using the white epoxy(for CARC) over rustoleum primers. The white epoxy works great on bare metal or old CARC. But epoxy is overkill for Gillespie.

 

[red devils dude]

Low-Tech-Redneck
What brand of paint did you use.

 

[Low-Tech-Redneck]

Gillespie 34086 "383" CARC-Substitute, in gallon buckets, thinned w/ primer and put on w/ a spray gun.

 

[red devils dude]

You know what the can of Gillespie I got must be off mine looks really dark, Are you sure it's 34086 I thought 34094
was the 383 green CARC-Substitute.
And I found I can get a PPG acrylic enamel for about $80 a gal(with hardener and flattening agent) in true 383 green.

 

[Low-Tech-Redneck]

Well, we ordered it through Army Jeep Parts, and that was the advertized number, they may have a mis-listing, I'd have to find one of the old cans and check it to be sure exactly what number it was, but it was definately some variety of the lusterless green, not the tan or brown kind from Korea or WWII era trucks.

 

[red devils dude]

If you can find a can I'd really appreciate it.

 

[Low-Tech-Redneck]

Well, went back to the shop today, couldn't find any old cans

But I'm pretty sure that's what we used, I've heard the color can vary depending on a lot of factors and how many coats you put on.

 

[red devils dude]

thanks for looking, I'm going to call the PPG shop see about the paint I cant wait.

 

[DrFoster]

I use red oxide on bare cheap metal projects.

If you've got some "pings" in the paint from media blasting, or you want a LIFETIME paint job, use the epoxy. I used it on my friend's 997 Porsche and his Cobra Roadster and HOLY COW there is a huge difference.

Red Ox needs to have more coats put on, and it is easier to be sloppy with it. Epoxy required less coats and (I think) it was a little more forgiving since it was thicker.

 

[DrFoster]

let me add to that a little bit too - If you're not on a good prepared surface, use red ox. If you're coming from a bare metal and want premium results, use the epoxy.

 

[red devils dude]

right now I'm looking at useing a epoxy on the parts I'm geting sandblasted and a Rust-Oleum industrial
red oxide Rust Inhibitive Primer on the rest.