Push solenoid Question

[coyotegray]

My two 3KW generators are Yanmar conversions and do not have a manual throttle.
A push solenoid takes it to full throttle and then retracts fully when the set it turned off.

I would like to install a manual throttle adjustment and the easiest way would be to limit how far the solenoid is allowed to travel.
Would this create any problems with the solenoid, if I keep if from full travel..?

Thanks,
Andy.

 

[doghead]

What's your goal? You cannot run it at reduced speed and still make 60 hertz power.

 

[coyotegray]

What's your goal? You cannot run it at reduced speed and still make 60 hertz power.

Just to make fine adjustments.
You need to use two wrenches to adjust as it is now, a little tricky, and I anticipate that with changes in temperature, say winter vs. summer it will need to be adjusted.


Andy..

 

[doghead]

I'm not familiar with the throttle linkage on the Yanmar converted gensets.

I suppose you need to make fine adjustment between the governor and IP linkage?

Maybe a few detailed pictures and someone here may have a good suggestion?

 

[coyotegray]

Here are pics.

Run & stop...
On the end of the solenoid with the boot (left) it is threaded.
I was thinking about attaching a manual adjustment here that would limit how far it travels..

 

[Speddmon]

How much of an adjustment are we talking about here?

The reason for the question is this. The rod that you see that is doing the pushing is only half of the complete solenoid. The plunger inside of the boot is the other half. When you energize the solenoid the plunger pulls into the coil because of the magnetic field produced by the coil. If the coil is a DC coil, it will get very, very hot if you stop the plunger from pulling into it. If the coil is an AC coil, the amperage will continue to build in the coil intensifying the field until you either A, pull in the plunger to act as the iron core of the field. B, generate enough amperage until a fuse or breaker trips (hopefully). Or C, the coil burns up. That is the reason you NEVER operate an AC coil without having some kind of iron core inside the coil. The best example of this I can give is changing AC solenoid "RedHat" water valves at work. It's always best to get in the habit of putting a large screwdriver through the coil when you remove it (since we mostly change the valve body and rarely the coils), as most of our stuff is always energized so it will "fail safe" or open upon power loss or coil failure.

If you are only limiting the travel a very small amount I cannot see any reason this would be an issue, just make sure you don't block the plunger from traveling far enough.