Radiator repairs.

[Blueduce]

I Got back to Dallas from my 416 mile round trip to Austin last night. As truck was idling down in driveway I noticed some green fluid on the drivers side fender during my after PMCS. It looks as though the filler neck has separated from the radiator. After cleaning the area it's obvious that someone had this problem before. Note crappy soldering job.

My question is can this be repaired again. If so should I just clean up and re-solder the area or would something like JB weld make a better bond, or should I take it out and take it to a radiator shop.

The truck ran great for all 416 miles. The temp held steady at 180 degrees up and back at highway speeds of 50 -56 mph. Thanks Glenn

 

[flyusn99]

I'd say if it is only in that one spot you could probably get away with JB weld. My upper reservoir had quite a few little seepages and the fins were seperating so I had the whole radiator done and re-cored with the older style HD core, so I have the piece of mind that barring any major event the radiator will last for years. I guess it depends on how many leaks you have and how much you're willing to spend to really get it taken care of. Good luck!

James

 

[topo]

The radiator shop may want to pull the top tank off and solder the in side support if it has one . and while they have it apart clean it out in other words a rebuild job . get a estimate .

 

[cattlerepairman]

My experience has been that it is not usually "just that one spot". The deuce radiator is surprisingly complex, with the integrated reservoir. I did spend some $$$ and had a local rad shop check it out, re-core it and when I got it back it was as good as new - and for less $$.

Mine had been soldered and re-soldered and - surprise - there were other thin spots waiting to burst.

I never looked back and highly recommend getting it done right.

 

[Flyingvan911]

My radiator is leaking out of the seam at the top of the tank. It leaks above the filler neck. I am going to flush the system then have the radiator resoldered.

 

[Blueduce]

Thanks fellas, Taking this thing out and having it re-cored and having someone give it a once over sounds like the right answer. Does any one have a good idea as to what I should expect to pay for this service.

 

[flyusn99]

Depends on what core you get. I opted to go with the old style HD core where the cooling fins actually lock the core together rather than the el cheapo radiators the Govt started using to replace the radiators in the deuces. Those one look like they were just pressed together (which they were) so they don't last near as long. My total cost was $700 for the HD brass core and completely going through both the top and bottom reservoirs. If I had gone with one of the cheaper cores it would have cost me about $500 but as it stands my radiator is about twice as heavy as the old one, you can actually feel the quality. Hope it works out for you.

James

 

[topo]

I would price a new one there rebuilt price may be close or more ? I just had my m52a2 radiator in to get the bottom hose connection blocked off and a new 2 1/2 connection put in on the other side and it was $200 I only have one radiator shop to use around here . you may check around ?

 

[Blueduce]

Thanks flyusn and topo, that info really helps. I had no idea it would be that expensive. I will have to go another route till I can save up. I have a friend with a couple old Deuce's and he will let me buy one of the radiators from him. None of the engines run so there's no real way to pressurize / test any of the cores unless I switch it out in my rig. He lives a few hundred miles away so that's not an option. Is there anything I should look for in choosing which radiator I should take.

 

[MidnightDuramax]

There is a tool you can buy that goes on where the cap is. It is a little hand pump with a gauge. Pump it up to pressurize the system and check for leaks. It is not military specific and can be gotten at most auto part stores.

 

[Blueduce]

Thanks Midnight, heading to parts house now.

 

[flyusn99]

Blueduce,
Pretty standard stuff to look for on a used radiator;

Any white crust from previous leaks (esp around the upper and lower reservoirs and where they sodered the two halves of the reservoirs together as well as around the input and output tubes)

Any indications of damage to the radiator core (Blunt trauma to the fins will hint at where to look)

If its one of the newer replacement radiators where the cooling fins are sandwiched between the core look on the outboard most cooling fins and see if they are seperating, if they are they will pull outboard, that's a good indication the radiator is beginning to fail. The older style more HD radiators had the cooling fins interlocked with the core so the fins were actually structurally supportive. Still if you can get a take-out on the cheap and in good shape that's a much more cost effective way to go..

James

 

[Blueduce]

James,
Just so I'm clear on the two types of fins. This is a shot of my existing radiator fins. Can you tell from this pick which one I have.

Glenn.

 

[flyusn99]

No problem, that's the newer replacement style. Notice how the fins are separate from each other and don't span the entire width of the radiator? That was a means of cost savings. On the type you have, when they manufactured it they simple coated the find with soder then placed the entire core in a jig and heated it up to allow the soder to bind (glue) the fins to the coolant passages. So as the radiator is vibrated from driving and expands and contracts from heating up and cooling down the outside fins begin to pull apart.
The old style radiators that the older deuces had as OEM had the cooling fin running straight across the entire length of the radiator with holes manufactured for the coolant passageways to be inserted, effectively locking them in place mechanically, it was a much sturdier design but also much more costly to produce.
I had mine recited with the old style and can post some pics when I get back next week if you'd like.

James

 

[Blueduce]

Thanks James, that would be great. That way I will know exactly what to look for. Glenn

By the way, thanks immensely for the radiator 101 class. Hopefully I can pass the knowledge on if anyone ever asks me. Learn somthin new every day. That's my motto.

 

[spicergear]

I had one recored a few years back for my crane truck and the V8 CAT. If anyone goes this way, because our radiators run vertically, ask the shop to band it horizontally. That helps with the expansion and contraction that over time bellies out the sides of them and starts them leaking in the core.

 

[lawdog1623]

get a good radiator blue. Spend your money well here. You know this but were in texas and it gets very very hot bro. You dont want the steel to take a dump on you and over heat. just my two cents. Im going to have to replace my radiator pretty soon.

 

[Blueduce]

Manny thanks lawdog. I agree, I'm not playing around with this. I'm going to buy a pressure gauge when I head down to Austin next month. I'm check to see if one of the trucks down there has the old style radiator that flynusn was talking about. If so and it's in good condition I'll pull it and have it rebuilt. That option seems to be the best decision and the best way to spend my $$.

 

[Akicita]

I had made inquiries about the price pf a new rad for a Deuce just a few weeks ago. Price was $650 new. That's more money than I wanted to spend and decided to pull the rad out and have it soldered at a radiator shop. The guy told me he found more than the one leak I knew about. Apparently, I messed up when the safety for the winch lever flipped over and punched the rad. Anyway, he charged less than half the price of a new rad and everything seems to be holding up well.

 

[flyusn99]

BlueDuce,
Here are the pics I promised. The one with the cooling fins zig-zagging in between the cooling core is the newer cheaper style. The one with the cooling fins running the entire horizontal row capturing the cooling core and locking it in place is the older more Heavy Duty style. The newer style allow the heating-cooling cycle to essentially laterally pop the core segments apart over time. Hope this helps.

James