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Ramdough Cab Modifications Build Thread

ramdough

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All,

Just starting a thread for the cab modifications of my truck. I do not have a great name for the truck, but it is coming I am sure soon.

First up for posting….. Sound Proofing.

I started with two kits of 3/4 Dynamat Hood liner under the dog house



FA3AE177-E18F-4FE1-9FD2-2162E03F30A7.jpeg



Next, I started installing one layer of KillMat. I did the entire floor


AD3BE218-7EA8-4DDF-B844-57FAA68DA69F.jpeg

4A67599C-60F2-4EC6-8B5E-3095A8716A5B.jpeg

I also did the side walls then added (the back wall and roof will wait until I have the crawl through installed)

on the side walls, I also installed Noico Red 315mil foam.

E30C25A4-41AD-495A-B43C-C24D204BD06A.jpeg

Then I went to the doors. I did the inside and inside of the outer panels.
3DE760ED-260F-470A-85E9-E22144A88472.jpeg

then I installed the Noico Red inside the doors.



5C551CBD-D040-495A-A8EB-831E6F791495.jpeg

then I installed KillMat on the backs of the door panels and kick panels

0615E662-BE8A-4D10-B07A-E0174E8ED687.jpeg

then I measured and found out the the recess in the door is almost the same thickness as the Noico Red, so I did a crappy job of measuring and installed Noico Red on the back of the door panels.


334DECEC-C71F-47B7-B285-744E368553AD.jpeg

I also replaced all of the plastic clips and added M6 rivnuts so I can carry the extra weight.

I plan to use Noico Red on the backs of the Kick panels as well…. Why not.

so far I have used 2 boxes of KillMat and barely dented one box of Noico Red. I will post more pictures as I go. I did not do a before and after sound study, but I will definitely do an after study.

That is it for today. Interior floor mats is coming up soon, then AC, and BMW X3 electric/heated seats.
 
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ramdough

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Almost forgot:


I used:

A little degreaser and wax remover.
Two cans of adhesion promoter
3 cans of color spray.

I would be done, but then I found out I missed a tiny spot, so I needed another can.

Looks good though.

3496187E-D77A-46F8-BFF5-A7A250B6FC02.jpeg
 

ramdough

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Austin, Texas
And here is the floor mat material a bought for under the seats and feet. It is designed to absorb sound. I have not decided if I will use Noico Red underneath this mat as I am afraid it will be too thick. I will let you know what I end up doing.

E7EA7268-F469-4B32-B3F9-60DCB6792C92.jpeg

this mat was bought from here. It has a built in foam layer, w is why I bought it.


It is a little lighter weight that I would have liked. Next time I would have probably bough this and added foam.

 

coachgeo

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Thanks Ron! The Foundation was on a [mention]fuzzytoaster [/mention] truck, so far it has been running great.


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off topic

Just a SS user FYI....
on this board if you use the @ and begin typing user/member name after... it will pop up a user/member selection list you can then click the username of the member you wanted to point out... and end up with

@fuzzytoaster which I believe will ...... if he gets notices..... show up like when he gets quoted...
 

ramdough

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Location
Austin, Texas
off topic

Just a SS user FYI....
on this board if you use the @ and begin typing user/member name after... it will pop up a user/member selection list you can then click the username of the member you wanted to point out... and end up with

@fuzzytoaster which I believe will ...... if he gets notices..... show up like when he gets quoted...
Yup…..that is why I tagged him in…. I was talking about him.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

ramdough

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All,

The hole in the door panel with the three hinge bolts (in the upper corner)….. do I really need access to these with the panel on? I can easily pull the panel to adjust. My doors do not have the limiting strap.

I am thinking about covering them when I line the cab side of the panel with vinyl.

There is no way to adapt this truck to have limiting straps like the factory ones without new hinges… right? That would be not worth it to me.


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coachgeo

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North of Cincy OH
....

There is no way to adapt this truck to have limiting straps like the factory ones without new hinges… right? That would be not worth it to me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
if Im mentally picturing it right.... have not seen one with my own eyes in about a year... but pretty sure one could fab up and weld two tongue's to run bolt thru the strap, onto the existing hinge..... or onto a plate that w/longer bolts..... mounts atop the hinge.

or just get jeep, chevy orr?? straps and reinforce the shiat behind the mounts that go on the door and dash side
 

ramdough

Well-known member
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1,729
113
Location
Austin, Texas
if Im mentally picturing it right.... have not seen one with my own eyes in about a year... but pretty sure one could fab up and weld two tongue's to run bolt thru the strap, onto the existing hinge..... or onto a plate that w/longer bolts..... mounts atop the hinge.

or just get jeep, chevy orr?? straps and reinforce the shiat behind the mounts that go on the door and dash side
It sounds like adding a limit strap is beyond the effort I would like to make.

Is there any downside to covering the hole in the door liner panels?


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coachgeo

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It sounds like adding a limit strap is beyond the effort I would like to make.

Is there any downside to covering the hole in the door liner panels?


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not sure what hole your referring too? the one in the plastic covering panel?
 

Ronmar

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I don’t think covering them is a problem.

As for door restraint, I think the alternate method is a track and bar assembly on the bottom of the door. Now wether the track was intended to work with, in addition to, or in place of the strap, I am not sure… I have not seen a truck with the track actually fitted.

But having hard screw points already fitted on the bottom of door and cab opening, it should be fairly simple to mimic that lower limiter/restraint with a strap, folding bar or perhaps a low yield pneumatic strut assembly…

My doors were stripped of hardware and those straps were not in the cab when I received it(at least the inner door panels were still there:))
 

coachgeo

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Location
North of Cincy OH
I don’t think covering them is a problem.

As for door restraint, I think the alternate method is a track and bar assembly on the bottom of the door. Now wether the track was intended to work with, in addition to, or in place of the strap, I am not sure… I have not seen a truck with the track actually fitted.

But having hard screw points already fitted on the bottom of door and cab opening, it should be fairly simple to mimic that lower limiter/restraint with a strap, folding bar or perhaps a low yield pneumatic strut assembly…

My doors were stripped of hardware and those straps were not in the cab when I received it(at least the inner door panels were still there:))
the track on bottom is the first variant on A0's..... that did not work well..... the second was the straps and came first on A1 models?

For the track type... found that if you stack washers under the track mount bolt... think it was one closest to hinges??...... anyway it is the one that the slide stops at when all the way open.... this seems to prevent what causes the slide one's to fail. They slide tend to hop up onto the last bolt head and slide over it.. which ends up bending the track open a bit and allows the slide to just slip right on out of the track and the door comes crashing open to far. The stacked washers adds an additional STOP preventing this.
 

Ronmar

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3,826
7,430
113
Location
Port angeles wa
the track on bottom is the first variant on A0's..... that did not work well..... the second was the straps and came first on A1 models?

For the track type... found that if you stack washers under the track mount bolt... think it was one closest to hinges??...... anyway it is the one that the slide stops at when all the way open.... this seems to prevent what causes the slide one's to fail. They slide tend to hop up onto the last bolt head and slide over it.. which ends up bending the track open a bit and allows the slide to just slip right on out of the track and the door comes crashing open to far. The stacked washers adds an additional STOP preventing this.
Thats where a folding scissor bar with a spring or a better quality track might be an alternative to the upper strap…
 

ramdough

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My truck is a mixed bag. It is a 1999 A1, but has A1R door locks, but A0 hinges, tracks and aluminum door panels.

The left door has a splined window crank and the right one is square.

I think most track failures may be from flipping the cab with the door boot properly latched…. Then having the door fling open. Or opening the door while flipped and not properly holding onto it. Mine work right now, but you can tell people were once hard on them.


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Third From Texas

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There is no way to adapt this truck to have limiting straps like the factory ones without new hinges… right? That would be not worth it to me.
Sure there is....

20 mins in a fab shop and....brackets.

Straps, any commercial sewing/canvas/sail shop.

The only part that takes some pondering is hand grab replacement. You can go fancy and try to copy OEM or just ass a handle/strap. Honestly, if you incorporated a plate like the OEM does on the dash-side you could strap right off the A0 handle...

/done

20210705_142215.jpg
 
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Third From Texas

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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
I think most track failures may be from flipping the cab with the door boot properly latched…. Then having the door fling open. Or opening the door while flipped and not properly holding onto it. Mine work right now, but you can tell people were once hard on them.
On the coast you have to hang onto those doors. The winds are always nuking down here. Some form of arresting the doors is a must...
 
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