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Mine doesn't have a rebuild tag any where but only 488 miles on the odometer and, although a 1991 truck, has a 2009 engine - per the engine tag. The tires look like they have about 500 miles on them so kind of goes with the mileage and the paint, although faded some from sitting in the Texas sun/heat looks pretty fresh, the front headache rack is fiberglass with fresh green CARC but the troop seats and side racks are wood and severely worn ( probably traded from another truck they were keeping and easier to remove than the headache rack). So far the only really bad thing I've found was the cab top thread rot (Texas sun again), dead batteries, clogged fuel filter, and the CTIS isn't working right (just haven't had time to diagnose it yet). I paid about $1500 more for it than a bunch of ROUGH trucks selling the same time at Ft Hood. Almost all of those were sitting on flat tires and I know of 2 trucks personally that had blow outs on the way home. I figure if nothing else I have $1500 worth of better tires.
The key, if you're able, is to inspect the vehicle. Know someone with a 1008 or 1009 and a slave cable? Take them with you. I used to check out vehicles at Ft Sam for folks from all over the country and, while I'm not an expert, could at least give them some more info than GL would (like would it start if slaved?). There are ways to move the crapshoot closer to your favor than the house's.
No. An actual inspection is the only thing that can justify a higher price.I have noticed that the rebuilt trucks on GL go for quite a bit more. Is it worth the price difference over a clean running non-rebuilt truck with similar mileage on the odometer.
That was posted by wsucougarx . Links to it have been posted in several of the dozens of threads on rebuilt trucks .The first thing we all need to do is stop calling them rebuilt trucks. I know I have been guilty of this. Just the other night, when showing a friend my trucks, I caught myself several times referring to one of my RRAD trucks as rebuilt. Most of them...not all (some of the facilities appear to rebuild trucks)...are not rebuilt as in overhauled. The RRAD trucks, in particular don't appear to be rebuilt at all. They basically go over the trucks to fix problems while leaving most of the original truck intact. This sounds great, but I have found that their process often masks problems. It seems to me as though they tend to err on the side of leaving things alone. I have a truck with a leaking radiator (it was just painted and had new stickers applied) that failed after about 700 miles, a bad alternator (again, it was repainted) that failed after fewer than 100 miles, a RRAD-rebuilt NHC250 with a blown head gasket that failed after about 160 miles, a RRAD truck with a 6CTA motor with a serious valve tap (not sure when it started, but the truck was showing 1,200 miles since RRAD touched it), crushed hoods that were straightened, leaking rear engine main seals with new transmissions installed (why not replace the rear engine main seal when the tranny was replaced) (fewer than 1,000 miles since RRAD), transmissions that won't shift into 5th gear...on and on. These problems were not culled from others' posts; these are all problems that I have experienced on my own trucks, with the exception of the transmission problem (another friend on this list experienced that problem and told me about it).
There have been many other threads on this. Another poster (his name escapes me at this moment) posted a link in another thread regarding what RRAD does when they "rebuild" trucks. Trust me, it is not very impressive. As I said initially, though, it does appear as though some of the facilities have a more thorough rebuild. Trucks coming out of the Kansas Readiness Center appear to have had a more involved repair and retrofit process. I have only had one of these trucks so I am basing this more on what others on this list have said (I believe SUPRMAN has a cherry Kansas M923A2 that he is selling as a means of seeing what their product looks like).
No problem .Thanks, PORKYSPLACE! That was the poster.
+1 If only going by the GL description and photos, bid the scrap price, minus the fees and taxes and the cost to get it home, and the cost to haul it to the scrap yard after you see what you're dealing with. I admit it, I'm a bottom feeder, and proud of it. Sometimes I even get lucky.Unless you inspect a truck, you should only bid up to scrap value. Anything else and your gambling.
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