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Reconditioning M135 Wheels

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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I have a set of M135 wheels that I'm wanting to run on my M275A2 tractor. I will be flipping the rear hubs and installing 12.00R20 Michelin XML's. The M135 wheels that I have measure about 1-1/4" less in backspacing than stock deuce wheels. They're not in the greatest shape, and wanted to see if you guys have any advice about cleaning up and running these wheels. Or not doing it, if there are safety issues.

Here is a general picture of the wheels:
IMG_1360.jpg

Here is a picture of the corrosion on the worst wheel:
IMG_1361.jpg

Here a a few hammer marks from old tire changes:
IMG_1362.jpg

A picture showing how the lock rings sit on the ground:
IMG_1359.jpg

The stock wheels that are on my truck now:
IMG_1363.jpg

The tires I'm putting on:
IMG_1355.jpg

And they're going on this truck:
IMG_1026.jpg
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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I plan to wire wheel some stuff first just to see how deep it goes. I might even have to take a flap wheel to a few spots if the wire wheel doesn't cut it. Will sandblasting remove all of the heavy stuff that well or is a combination of elbow grease and sandblasting required?
 

rustystud

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I plan to wire wheel some stuff first just to see how deep it goes. I might even have to take a flap wheel to a few spots if the wire wheel doesn't cut it. Will sandblasting remove all of the heavy stuff that well or is a combination of elbow grease and sandblasting required?
A good sandblaster can rip that rust right off. The problem is finding one. Around here I have to drive North to "Marysville" to find one. That's a 60 mile round trip.
 

Welder1

Active member
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Albany Ga
If you were closer I would blast them for you. Sandblasting is the most effective way to clean up rusted steel. I have been blasting for over 25 years and have a large professional set-up. My blast pot hold 6,000 lbs of sand fed from a 30 ton storage silo.



Eddie Cannon
 

Andy1234

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St. Louis, Missouri
Some truck tire shops can send the wheels out to be shotblasted and powder coated. I used Cross-Midwest a few years ago on some bridge truck wheels that were in similar shape, the cost was very reasonable, $25/wheel.
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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How bent or mangled can a lock ring be before it's unsafe to use? I don't have any detailed pictures, but I know for sure some of the lock rings were scary looking. I only had one lock ring that was corrosion free (it was also the straightest) and had a different paint finish than the rest so it made me think it was replaced. I think I want to buy some better condition rings, but are there any issues using a later lock ring on the earlier wheels? The lock rings look normal to me, but I haven't busted down any of my stock wheels to compare.
 

MWMULES

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I have used the standard Budd M35A2 lock rings on the older M135 wheels and have not had a problem.
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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I called a local industrial sandblaster and it sounds like about $20/wheel, which doesn’t seem bad to me. Will probably just deliver to them and let them work their magic.

Dave - I had actually already looked at your lock rings. I’m going to check a local surplus guy first to see if I can save on shipping. If I don’t have luck I’ll be placing an order soon. Thanks.
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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Got the wheels back from sandblaster

Here are some pictures of the wheels after sandblasting. I still have some concerns with the condition of the wheels. I've never run anything as beat up as these before on any of my vehicles. The rust is gone, but you can see a lot of pitting and a few deep gouges I'll have to at least smooth out. I have new lock rings on the way, but not sure I want to run these wheels. They seem pretty beefy, so maybe I'm just being paranoid. Anyway, here are some pictures. Advice is requested.
 

Attachments

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Here are some pictures of the wheels after sandblasting. I still have some concerns with the condition of the wheels. I've never run anything as beat up as these before on any of my vehicles. The rust is gone, but you can see a lot of pitting and a few deep gouges I'll have to at least smooth out. I have new lock rings on the way, but not sure I want to run these wheels. They seem pretty beefy, so maybe I'm just being paranoid. Anyway, here are some pictures. Advice is requested.

Just use a good "epoxy primer" and a good coat of paint and they should be fine. I've seen far worse put into service.
 

jbayer

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St. Aug., FL/ McGrady, NC
Be sure to remove any of the sharp edges on any gouges, especially on raised up sharp edges. I would also still treat them with a rust reformer such as OSPHO. While the rust appears gone, it's never 100% gone, it's in the pores. You can see it in the rust pits.
I think they'll be fine. Definitely use an "Epoxy" primer.
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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Thanks for the advice. I’ll be smoothing gouges and working on paint soon. Are the small welds on the back of the wheels factory or did somebody add them later? Any idea?
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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Making Progress

Making some progress. Got one side of the wheels primed yesterday. Will be letting the primer cure/dry until tomorrow night then will flip and prime the back sides. Will let that sit for another few days and then start top-coating. Nothing fancy, here, just going to be flat black. I have a bunch of new lock-rings I need to paint over the OD Green with black as well.

This is just a rattle-can job.

IMG_1381.jpg
 

Shrapnel

Just a Hoosier stuck out west!
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Delta, UT
Flip-side coated

Flipped my wheels over and sprayed the inside this afternoon. Now I get to hurry-up-and-wait until Wednesday before I can start spraying some black. I thought about doing it within the 1-hr recoat window today but it was flashing so fast with the heat today I didn't want to ruin my hard work (and my trigger-fingers were wore out on both my right and left hands!).


IMG_1383.jpgIMG_1389.jpg
 
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