Redoing my M1008...again...

[acesneights1]

Well I painted my M1008 two years ago with Milspray which was the worst garbage I have ever seen. It peeled off in sheets and would turn to mush when you washed the truck with hot water. Their stuff is garbage. That said the underneath of the truck took a pretty bad beating from the insane amounts of Calcium choride they use on the roads in the Communist state of Ct. I had cleaned the whole frame two years ago and did 5 coats of POR15( another worthless product). It is all rusted again.
This time I rented a pro sandblaster(It looked pretty funny being towed by my Deuce). I blasted the whole underneath and found alot of damage. I had to replace the cab corners(again) The drivers side floor(again) both rockers...
Ugghhh. I gotta buy a beater to drive in the winter. This time I used Rustoleum's V7400 system. It is industrial grade paint that we use at my work on the Fire Hydrants which also took a beating from the salt. They seemed to hold up last year with this paint.
The pics won't be in order but you get the idea. Used Aervoe top coat. Used Omni M170 primer.

 

[acesneights1]

More pics...

 

[acesneights1]

More...

 

[acesneights1]

Cab done...Just in the mick of time. last warm day we are gonna have for a long time. Old man winter is a knocking and I need this truck functional.

 

[acesneights1]

I will say, the Aervoe lays out real nice. I did 3 coats/5 quarts.
Although PPG would not give me an answe about using a non PPG topcoat I am banking that the Aervoe will bond with the epoxy primer/sealer.

 

[acesneights1]

Also this piece is shot. Ordered a new one from LMC. Also LMC has the complete bed bolt kit for 29.95. Not worth trying to piece it together. I had to burn all the old bolts out.

 

[skinnyR1]

Looks good!

 

[Jeepsinker]

You did all that panel replacement just two years ago?

 

[acesneights1]

You did all that panel replacement just two years ago?

Yep. The People's republic of Komnecticut uses straight salt with magnesium Chloride. It's part of the (Censored) agenda to destroy any vehicle over 5 yrs old. Was talking to a sandblast guy who said he had an 09 Duramax come in with the bed off and holes in the frame. I replaced the wheelwells two years ago and the fenders were like new inside. Now look...

 

[acesneights1]

Well, it's nearly done. Just have to paint the brushguard, mirrors, grille mouldings etc.

 

[Jeepsinker]

That is ridiculous... You might think about driving it through a tar pit or something.

 

[Merc1973]

Great job. Too bad about the salt. Just make sure you hit the carwash once a week. My Brother has used Chassis Saver on the frame to stop rust, he likes it. He lives in Metro Detroit and they spread that cancerous stuff just as much.

 

[Ray70]

The Omni epoxy primer should do a good job saving this paint job. I've used POR15 and all sorts of other crap and had rust return within 1 winter here in N.E. My best results so far have been to sandblast then 2 coats of PPG DP90LF (no reducer) then 3 heavy coats of Rust Shield paint with the hardener. After 1 winter plowing ( and no rinsing), then sitting on dirt all year the only damage I found is a few rust stains where I didn't get into some seams good enough. DP90LF is just a more expensive equivalent to the OMNI epoxy primer. You can topcoat epoxy with anything as long as you are either wet on wet or well within the 1 week window. Personally I never give it more than 24 hours, but usually only 1-4 hours before I topcoat.
For preventing rust inside panels, inside doors and above wheel wells and such, SEM makes a great "corrosion preventer" that comes in both a spray can with a straw and in a QT bottle for use with a Shutz gun with a wand attachment. it dries and leaves a waxy oily film inside the panels and seeps into crevaces and hemmed seams. Its similar to Fluid Film but supposedly only needs 1 application, not repeat applications every few months like Fluid Film.

 

[Ray70]

Don't leave all that new metal and metalwork bare on the inside. I'd paint or epoxy the inside of the fenders, especially the wheel well lip and bottom near the door/rocker then spray it all with the Corrosion preventer. also thoroughly spray inside your new rockers and cab corners, especially if you did any lap welds instead of butt welds. ( copper weld through primer is also your best friend on pinch weld seams like the bottom and top of rockers) if there are no access holes drill the inner rocker to access the inside then plug the holes with rubber plugs or patches of stick on roofing like Ice and water.

 

[acesneights1]

I used Rustoleum V7400 primer and topcoat on the frame and insides of the fenders and then used rubberized undercoating on top of that. I'll see if Kemperle has the Sem. Ideally I am looking at parking the truck in the winter and buying a beater.
The MP170 worked real nice. The only thing I did not get to play with was trying to use a hardender with the Aervoe. I was gonna mix a little in with the paint and sray it on some old panels to see the outcome but I ran out of paint.
I have used both Por15 and Chassis Saver and both equally suck.

 

[acesneights1]

Great job. Too bad about the salt. Just make sure you hit the carwash once a week. My Brother has used Chassis Saver on the frame to stop rust, he likes it. He lives in Metro Detroit and they spread that cancerous stuff just as much.

I powerwashed it after every storm last year with hot water steam cleaner and soap and still rusted. Ct is the worst. 5 year old trucks are getting frame damage.

 

[Ray70]

Agreed as far as POR15 and Chassis saver. Way too expensive for a product who's performance is sketchy at best. I also found out (too late ) that neither of those 2 products can be used on clean metal. They will only bond to rusted metal ( and your skin ) but they will also let the rust return quickly. SEM's Rust Shield paint is 1/4 the price and way out performs both of the other "moisture cure" paints. Another great product for cheap is Sure Seal's Dominion Rocker Guard. Its black and meant to be used as chip guard on rockers and fender bottoms and such, but I use it in place of undercoating. about $12 for a 3/4 Qt bottle at paint supply shops. Put on 2 good coats with a Shutz gun. Dries quickly and forms a much thicker layer than spray can undercoating and it won't flake off like regular undercoating can. The only other thing better for undercoating (always prime and paint first, never undercoat bare steel or right over rust) is to spray everything with 2 part Bed Liner ( not the one part water based stuff ), the one applied professionally with a heated dual component proportioning machine is best but very very expensive.

 

[acesneights1]

Fin....