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Replacement Engine

regicidal919

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I posted awhile back, I had the engine in my deuce blow up a few weeks ago. I have the replacement motor now and am starting the process. Here are some pics of the blown engine and the holes punched in the block.
 

clpo

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I went to Denver to pick up my deuce this weekend. Rod went throught the block near Rock Springs WY. She is stuck there, I feel your pain!
 

regicidal919

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Amery / WI
Here are some more of the engine pics. I think what you see peaking out of the block is the base of the connecting rod. If anyone has any thoughts as to how it happened I would appreciate the insight. An no I did'nt over rev.

Also here is a pic of the replacement engine.:-D
 

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regicidal919

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So how hard is the engine swap. :?:

I pulled the radiator, and started labeling the wiring aand various other conections. My replacement motor has the clutch installed already so my plan is to pull the old motor and tranny. remount my tranny to the replacement motor and reinstall them as one unit.
 

clpo

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Good luck with the swap. I'll soon be doing the same for the first time. Hope I can learn a bit from your experience.
 

BugEyeBear

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Eastern Georgia
MAKE SURE that the premounted clutch is good before you put the old trans on the new engine.

You'd HATE to get it all installed & then discover that you put a Bum Clutch in there!

Might be worth AT LEAST slapping a new disk in there..... & check the pilot bush/bearing while you are at it!
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Lexington, South Carolina
Tsmall07,
Don't know about the tranny, but the engine is over 1800. From seeing Waller grunt over a tranny, I would guess about 150-175 for it. YMMV.
 

mudguppy

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duncan, sc
...If anyone has any thoughts as to how it happened I would appreciate the insight. ...
hard to tell from the first pic, but are the connecting rod cap bolts even in the connecting rod? its hard to tell, but looks like the bolts are AWOL? if the cap or one of the bolts went, they should be broken off in the con-rod.

they must be there. because if they aren't, that means they backed out or stripped out. and that would be very strange... the only way to know for sure will be when you remove the pan and see what the cap looks like. w/out over-revving the next likely candidate is improper torque on the rod bolts. after that, fatigue / failure of a rod bolt. it looks unlikely that the cap failed; usually when it does it will fail in the center and break into pieces, leaving one or both sides of the cap still attached to the con-rod.

either way, looks like the crank grabbed the con-rod on the down stroke (after the cap decided to leave) and threw it into the side of the block.

this is reason #2 on my list of why a cummins will go in my truck.
 
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