Steamynachos
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When you guys use your roboimpacts do you leave your truck running or shut it off? does it matter? do you get more torque if the truck is running?
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Roboimpact question
- Thread starter Steamynachos
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SierraHotel
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I noticed that the alternator gets loaded when the Roboimpact runs. I wouldn't run it without the engine runing.
Steamynachos
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Wouldn't it be a safety concern if you jacked the truck up and changed the tire with the truck running or to try starting it to get the nuts back on wile it's in the air???
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For "SHORT EMERGENCY TYPE ONLY" change a tire on the side of the road type stuff, you can shut the truck off and use the Robo, but MONITOR THE BATTS..... Else you'll kill them, and go from a flat tire to dead batts.
SierraHotel
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Like all tire changes, I loosen the nuts prior to lifting the wheel and then take the nuts off once it’s in the air. When I put them back on, I tighten them in the air as much as I can with the manual wrench then the final when I get it down. This is only a problem when the inside wheel of the duals is removed. However, adding a step in taking it up and down takes care of that, but adds considerable cussing.
Your message is well put. Safety should be questioned and questioned again.
Your message is well put. Safety should be questioned and questioned again.
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I'm not sure if others have experienced this problem, but I've used two different robo-impacts and they both struggled to remove the lugnuts from an M105A2 trailer. I don't know if the guy that mounted the tire/rim might have overtightened them to begin with (I've actually seen a stud turned off with a real impact wrench...the guy was careless and did not know what he was doing)...but I would have thought a robo-impact could remove lugnuts. I am thoroughly disapointed in mine. With that endorsement, it will be for sale at Aberdeen!
M1075
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Bruce-
I thought the roboimpacts had torque like none other. Is yours a 1/2" or 3/4" drive? I understand there is a big difference.
I thought the roboimpacts had torque like none other. Is yours a 1/2" or 3/4" drive? I understand there is a big difference.
DaveP
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Bruce, that is exactly why i went with an air impact wrench. i know its not origanal equipment but i want it to work. i have seen a few electric impact tools and have never been impressed.
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James, it is a 3/4" robo-impact... It seems to working properly because it does remove nuts that are not as tight...it just does not seem to work well.
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One thing we need to understand... They were NEVER designed to do lugs nuts.. They were designed to make breaking and installing M1 Tank and M2 Bradley track...
The only wheeled vehicle Aircraft Dynamics advertises the for use on lug nuts is for the humvee, which I can personally attest to works VERY well.
http://www.aircraftdynamics.com/robotools-1.htm
The only wheeled vehicle Aircraft Dynamics advertises the for use on lug nuts is for the humvee, which I can personally attest to works VERY well.
http://www.aircraftdynamics.com/robotools-1.htm
M1075
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Thanks guys. I was getting ready to buy 6 of the 3/4" roboimpacts. I think I will reconsider my options.
Jones
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I've yet to see an electric perform as well and an air impact. A friend has a 1/2" Ingersol Rand that regularly bailed out my 3/4" DeWalt. I've now gone to air and I like it but had to make sure my hoses had sufficient capacity to feed the tool; the little pigtail hoses don't flow enough volume.
As far as lugs are concerned; I still end up breaking the tougher ones loose with a Budd wrench and before going after them with the impact. Helps to make sure the lug studs are clean prior to re-assembly even to applying a very light dab of grease to the threads to keep rust from getting a start especially since they're one of the more exposed nut and bolt fasteners on any truck. I'm gonna be peddling my RoboTool too.
As far as lugs are concerned; I still end up breaking the tougher ones loose with a Budd wrench and before going after them with the impact. Helps to make sure the lug studs are clean prior to re-assembly even to applying a very light dab of grease to the threads to keep rust from getting a start especially since they're one of the more exposed nut and bolt fasteners on any truck. I'm gonna be peddling my RoboTool too.
Cdub
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I just picked up myself a 3/4" Roboimpact off Da'bay for $100 but I had to change the brushes, springs and brush holders for $25. I ordered the parts and got them three days later from Aircraft Dynamics. They were a very big help with getting me the right parts.
It is now all back together and working GREAT........!!
This is going to be a fantastic addition to my BII's.
Cheers,
C'dub
It is now all back together and working GREAT........!!
This is going to be a fantastic addition to my BII's.
Cheers,
C'dub
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Not going to hang on to it for the tipper? Shoot me a PM when you know how much you want for it.
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I've had many of them. Just recently gave a fixer upper 3/4" To Devilman96. Great for CUCVs but I find little use for them on the deuce.
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Yeah, I was thinking of putting it in the 725.
hedelta
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While deployed we wore 8 of those things out in 6 months . Thats one platoon 4 tanks.
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Depending on how much they got used, and for what, thats not bad for combat. How much other BII/AAI did you break? How many times did you break track, or change track pads? In my experience in dealing with M1 and Brad crews, the newest guy on the crew uses the robo, and he just keeps the trigger down until it breaks loose, even if there are bigger problems with bashed threads, worn guide rods, etc and that causes an early demise for the tool.
I have a 1/2 inch for the humvee and a 3/4 for the deuce.. I wont travel without them. Granted, I have already taken off the lugs, cleaned the threads, put antisieze on them, and put the lugs back on, then torqued them down to spec with BII tools so I know I can change a tire on the side of the road without the shop tools.
I wont give up my robos...
Another thing to look at is how much is yours worn out before you got it? When the brushes are half gone already, thats not helping it. I find that the tank and bradley crews beat on them pretty badly. I got mine new at a MV show, so that might be some of the reason why they work very well.
LanceRobson
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I've never noticed a problem or issue whether the engine is running or not but have never checked it out either.
As already stated they're not intended to break loose or final torque lugnuts.
I use a Swench to beak loose the lugs, then the Robotool to do the rest. For roadside stuff (which fortunately hasn't come up yet) I plan on final tightening the lugs by hand or with the Swench. In the shop they get tightened with a 3/4 inch torque wrench. I carry a Budd wheel socket when on the road.
All you guys who are looking to sell can, please, PM me with the model and price. A few buddies are interested, as is a son.
Lance
As already stated they're not intended to break loose or final torque lugnuts.
I use a Swench to beak loose the lugs, then the Robotool to do the rest. For roadside stuff (which fortunately hasn't come up yet) I plan on final tightening the lugs by hand or with the Swench. In the shop they get tightened with a 3/4 inch torque wrench. I carry a Budd wheel socket when on the road.
All you guys who are looking to sell can, please, PM me with the model and price. A few buddies are interested, as is a son.
Lance