Rockwell axle verification please ??? (u-joint style)

[Elohim1]

A local guy has some Rockwells on a non-running deuce in my area.

I need to know if they are the "U-joint" type. I tried to fill behind the rubber boot, But could not get my hand behind what seems to be a flange on the end of the axle tube..

It is in a 1970 model.

The data tag says Rockwell (of course)
Pt# is : FC240 HX11
serial # is: 3241

I am wanting the U-joint type not the Birfield(I believe this is the correct name) type.

Thanks
Chris

 

[Recovry4x4]

Start hammering it apart. I've never been able to tell from the outside. There are some grease plugs in the ball where the boot goes but unless its real clean in there, you won't be able to see it

 

[gringeltaube]

Rockwell front axle shafts

It is possible to know it without disassembling everything!
As far as I know there are 3 different front axle shaft styles, one being the center cross-type U-joint, the other two are ball-type CV universal joints. The most common has 4 + 1 balls, the other one (very rare) has 6 +1. See images below.
With the knuckle at maximum angle and the boot removed (or cut away) you can reach with your fingers far enough inside the knuckle (and old grease! ) to “feel” what type of axle shaft is inside. If it is the U-joint style you can touch the yokes with its recessed bearings and lockrings. See image.

Good luck!

Gerhard

 

[rizzo]

which is the strongest?

 

[cranetruck]

U-joints

 

[spicergear]

BUT...don't be fooled. The biggest problem with the ball style ones is not strength per say, but if they get dry or gritty and let loose they do a lot of other damage. I have an axle I pulled from a past deuce truck that broke the front outer shaft at the drive flange and the ball style knuckle (can't remember which one) was fine. Replaced it, of course, with a spicer style joint...but nontheless they are still very strong.

---This in not going against what CraneTruck wrote, that is absolutely dead on---

 

[Trango]

U-joints

Steve G from differential engineering says that stronger yet are the newer Convel types, if you can find them.

Bob

 

[spicergear]

Huh, that's nice to know-

Pretty much regardless of what joint is in the knuckle...if it's in nice healthy greasy shape, you'll pop and axle before you hurt the joint.

 

[Big Mike's Motor Pool]

sometimes you can tell by the tie rod. if it has 1 clamp on each end it is supposed to be a u-joint style if it has 2 clamps on each end it is supposed to be the ball type axles. i have seen rebuilt units come through with the double clamps and u-joints though

 

[Trango]

Another way...

Axles with data tags printed in blue ink that say "rockwell" are typically u joint, and if they have a plate printed in Black ink that says "timken", they're older style joints.

Also, the very ends of the drive flanges are subtlely different... as I recall, if the inside of the "nipple" is a flat disk, it's likely to be u joint, whereas a concave "innie"-looking flange is often ujoint. I have had both, and there IS a difference, and I seem to recall it being that, but I can't 100% remember.

Bob

 

[gringeltaube]

front axle shafts

So, who knows more about the CON-VEL axle shafts? If it's a newer design, what model/year did they start coming?
Couldn't find anything in the manuals.
Anybody knows what style the M35A3 has inside?

Gerhard

 

[jsthnt@gmail.com]

I talked to a guy that builds monster trucks with deuce axles, and he said there was one that did not need a boot.
Anyone know what that might be?

 

[gimpyrobb]

The rear axle.