Roosa Master DB2 Problem

[yokurto]

I became the proud owner of an Empire 50 kw with a White 2300T diesel with a Roosa Master DB2 IP. The flex ring failed and the check valve plugged with debris. I decided i wanted to attempt teh flex ring repair myself. I am having trouble getting the vent wire screw and the cam advance screw out. they are very tight and i am afraid i will strip the heads ( I am using alan wrenches as i don't have the recommended tool). does anyone have a suggestion i am afraid to ad heat but assume there is no other way. any help is greatly appreciated ....

 

[m16ty]

For the advance screw, the correct wrench is a Bristol wrench. I have found that a #40 (I think) torx will work in a pinch. They are usually very tight.

Sometimes even with the correct wrench you still can't get it out. I've heard reports of people cutting the housing apart to get it out. The thinking is the housing is much cheaper than the head and rotor and once you get the housing out of the way you can get the cam screw out with a pair of vice grips or something. I wouldn't want to add much heat.

I haven't worked on many DB2 pumps (mostly just DB pumps) so I don't know what you're calling the "vent wire screw".

 

[yokurto]

m16ty hopefully the image loaded for the description of the vent wire screw. It has to come out before the head comes out. WOW cutting the body to get the cam advance screw out is crazy but I think you are correct it is in there really tight.... thought this was going to be easy. thanks for the input

 

[Jeepsinker]

Don't cut the body. Drill the screw with a very small bit in the center all the way through the screw and then try it again. If it doesn't break loose, move up to the next size bit and drill it, then try again. Repeat until it either comes out or you can no longer get a bite on the screw head. If you get that far, then add some heat to it and use an E-Z out. As you drill the center out of the screw it relieves tension on the threads.

 

[m16ty]

Jeepskinker, it's not as easy to drill as it sounds, all these parts are precision parts and one slip up and the whole thing is just a paperweight. It isn't a screw in the traditional sense, it is actually a knob that controls the timing advance. It would be almost impossible to hold the cam ring still while you drilled it also. Have you actually been inside one of these IPs or just giving advice on general screw removal?

Yokurto, Don't try the Allen wrench anymore, use a torx or better yet, the correct Bristol wrench. I've always got them out with the torx.

I just looked up the vent wire screw. I've only been into DB pumps and they don't have the vent wire so I can't help you there.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Just general sensitive screw removal.

 

[yokurto]

I will get the proper size Torx, machine a bushing to center it and try it one more time. I am thinking I will be sending the pump to a shop (that someone on here recommends) for the flex ring repair.

 

[m16ty]

If you can get the two screws out you're having trouble with, you're almost there so I wouldn't give up just yet. Just remember where everything comes from (take pics if needed) and don't fool with the fuel adjustment and you'll be fine tearing it down and replacing the flex ring. Take special care not to install the cam or transfer pump ring backwards.

Also be very careful with the rotor shaft, the manual says not to even touch it. I have touched them but that just goes to show you how critical it is not to damage the rotor shaft.

I usually get the updated weight retainer when I rebuild a IP that won't come apart again. The main reason I do it is because it's a pain in the rear to get the new flex ring onto the retainer. The only down side is you have to re-time the IP because the timing mark is on the weight retainer. I can tell you how to air time a DB to get a new timing mark but I'm unsure if a DB2 is the same.

If you don't already have one, pick up a manual. They can usually be found on ebay and the like pretty cheap. Look for the older manuals, they usually have better info on how to make adjustments and such without having to use a test stand.

 

[yokurto]

thanks for the Help and support on this but i had to throw in the towel. I tried heat i tried an impact driver and still could not get the advance screw to budge. I was tapping lightly and then after about 4 beers was winding up pretty good and still nothing. sent it in and the let the guys who do it all day try. i think i am a pretty good mechanic and restore tractors and equipment but sometimes some guys have tricks that are learned with experience. i have too much work backlogged to spend anymore time trying to get out a little screw out that i admit kicked my a$$....