f800
Active member
- 101
- 38
- 28
- Location
- fort myers, fl
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Sorry, I did not catch that. If you can get both shifters into the detents smoothly, then it is something in between. Either the cascade box is fragged, or the high/low shift is in an intermediate positions that doesn't exist. Were you doing anything when the problem appeared, or did it just happen one day? If I understand correctly, the cascade has helical cut gears and will generate a lot of thrust loads if used to pull/push heavy loads. The Cascade box is for speed reduction, not stump pulling torque. Think of FluFarms snowblower where he wants to travel slowly at high engine RPM.I had to read that thread before I posted. It is my understanding that bushing replacement is for difficult or non shifting. I have no problem engaging each gear.
What's the NSN and part number ?Any ideas on where to access the solenoid?
Look at TM4-2420-224-24P-1, page 119.Any ideas on where to access the solenoid?
Maybe I am miss reading something here, but as I understand it the transmission is in direct or high when operated normally and the air shifter lowers the gear ratio. In other words the air shifter is an under drive not an overdrive. If one were to drive the truck without waiting for air pressure to develop to the point where the air shifter would work, you’d simply be driving around in direct ratios. Am I somehow wrong in this understanding? Not knowing the details of the intricacies in that mechanism I’m speaking off-the-cuff, but it’s probably spring loaded right? So the shift collar is held in direct range when air pressure isn’t delivered to that actuator, thus if the suspect is the air shift system perhaps it’s a broken spring? Anything else broken that would cause these symptoms in my mind would make a loud scary noise.Yeah, I still think it could be air shifter related.
If it were me, I'd make it work in low range and leave it there. I never mess with that splitter anyway.
Of course, I don't usually drive the FLUs on the road.
To create a new thread, click the "Forum" tab on top of each page, then scroll down to the "Unimogs" subforum and click that link. On top of each subforum page is a "Post New Thread" button. (You can also click this link to get into in the Unimog forum).Sorry to hijack this thread. I don’t know how to start a new thread. I have some Troubleshooting/parts questions. FLU 419 won’t drive due to binding in the driveline. With both axles off the ground, the rear spins/drives normally- by hand or powered. 4WD/lockers disengaged. The front wheels will spin fine in opposite directions but will not turn in the same direction whether forward or reverse. As though the driveshaft is binding. Removed the drain plug from front drive of tranny and can smoothly turn the spur gear with screwdriver - no metal on magnetic drain plug. I’m thinking the problem must be with the Ujoint but wanted another opinion before tearing apart. Is this a known failure mode? What tends to bind up? Couldn’t find any answers on prior posts. Are there any other parts that are prudent to change while front is removed for u joint? I’m assuming I’ll need to drop the front axle. Not sure if another problem is associated with this or not but it has also been leaking oil from front ujoint boot whenever the PTO is engaged and the trucks not moving. Not sure if it’s dripping from above the boot and running off the bottom but inside of boot looks dry. (Boot is torn). Thanks in advance
We get it, advertisements are annoying!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!