seeking CUCV IP Replacement how-to

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Hi Guys.

I'm about to tear into the engine and replace the IP. I've been reading TMs, wiki, FAQ and threads for hours, and finding lots of conflicting advice.

Is there a good thread with pictures that shows a first-timer how to replace an IP, start-to-finish? I have to believe there is, but I've not been able to find it.

Thanks,
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[corelokt]

You remove the intake.
Remove the injection lines. 19mm
Remove the injectors. 32mm deep.
Get a timing pump gasket set.
Get an intake gasket set.
Get a injector seal and lines kit.
Remove the oil fill.
By slowly turning the engine over you can get at each bolt to the pump through there.
Mark where your pump is so you can put the new one back timed the same.
I used a strong magnetic socket such as goes in a power drill, and an adapter to make it fit a ratchet. You do not want the bolts to fall into the bottom of the timing cover.
After reinstall it should be close, but will need timing.
Good time to pop test your injectors too.

 

[m1008chevy]

If you have someone to help you, I usually leave the injector lines on the pump and remove them together. Change them over on a work bench and put her back in. Reduces the chances of mixing the lines up and its a lot easier to remove the lines on the pump side when its not in the truck.

 

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Thanks! I also found this on you-tube, where a first-timer videotaped the process. He mentions he got his guidance from cucvrus here on SS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSX-17Kd1NU

 

[cucvrus]

JGP. My advise. Do not remove the delivery nozzles as mentioned. No need to remove them. The problem you are having is in the injection pump itself. The only special tools that I can think of is a thin 15 mm open end wrench and possibly a thin 13mm open end wrench. The 15mm you will need to get the studs and ground wires off on the right rear of the engine. I say right as you sit in the drivers seat. The 13mm you may need to remove the nuts on the oil fill and CDR bracket. Some tape jammed into a 13mm socket will suffice to remove the 3 M8 drive bolts thru the oil fill. I am sure you have all the tools to do this. A swivel 15 mm socket is nice but not needed. I would remove the entire injection pump and delivery lines as an assembly. Good luck. I am just a phone call away if you have issues. Free advise. 717 673-5395. Thank you.

 

[Chaski]

I'm also of the opinion it is easier to remove it with the lines still connected to the pump too. Looks like a big spider.

Keep everything operating room clean. Use whatever you need to to keep crud and hardware out of places it does not need to go. Duct tape, rags, paper towels, vacuum caps (for the injectors).

Paint remover can be an effective gasket remover if need be. Sometimes those intake manifold gaskets bake on and fall apart.

If you do decide to pull the injectors while you are at it you will need a 30mm 12 point deep socket (Not a 32mm).

Last thing is the job is much more enjoyable with a top side creeper so you can lie down while you work. If not that at least have a bunch of cardboard so you can make yourself a somewhat comfortable perch in the engine compartment.

 

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Thanks guys. Just came in to look up how to loosen the vacuum pump so I can get the last bolt out of the intake manifold. I'd never heard of a topside creeper before. If I could go buy one somewhere right now, I'd be sorely tempted. Instead, I guess I'll just be sore.

The injectors were replaced when I bought the truck, as part of the initial refresh. I don't plan to mess with them at all.

Gotta go wrestle a stud that broke loose before its nut did, without shredding the fuel line whose clamp that nut is holding. I think I'm going to remove the hood latch before it does permanent damage to my ribs.

Shop vac is a key tool in this project. Keeping it all as clean as I can.

 

[corelokt]

Loosen the injectors or the glow plugs. You need to turn the engine to get at the pumps bolts.

 

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Is there a trick for accessing the back passenger side injector? Must I remove the battery tray? I can't see how to get a wrench on it, much less with room to turn the wrench...

 

[cucvrus]

No tricks. i have a set of short wrenches. I just know it is tight back there. I never removed the battery tray. But do what you must. How is it going? I use the 2" rolok disc's to get the gaskets off. Does a nice job. How long till it's running again?

 

[Chaski]

I use a 12 point crowsfoot wrench and a ratchet.

 

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Thanks. I managed to get it from underneath the truck. I'm hoping to get this done without buying more tools, and my 19mm wrench is full length. I have a shorter set of flare wrenches, but they top out at 18mm, of course.

I have the 3 internal IP bolts out. Working on the external ones next, then I pull the spider. Almost half way!

I have no trouble rotating the engine with a 24mm socket and a breaker bar. I didn't pull glow plugs or
injectors.

 

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Defeated by the sensor for my TinyTach. It clamps over a fuel line between the IP and the Injector. It has 2 hex screws that are either some strange size or too corroded to remove. Tomorrow I break out my Tiny Vise Grips. I have the spider loose and ready to go otherwise.

In case anyone cares, TinyTach says the sensor screws are 4-40 X 3/4‘'. They use black O2s because they are harder than SS, at least until they corrode... I ordered SS replacements on Amazon.

Thanks again for all the help and advice.

 

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Thwarted again. I need some advice, please.

I have the spider loose, but there is a metal fuel line that runs from the IP across the top of the passenger side of the spider. It's secured by clips held by 2 valve cover nuts, front and back. My problem is that the rear valve cover nut is frozen to the clip, so when I try to back it off, the clip rotates with the nut and tries to bend/kink the metal fuel line that passes through the clip. I can't figure out a way to hold the clip still to break it free from the bolt. There's nothing to brace a screwdriver against, and noting to grab, even with my smallest needle nose vice grips.

I hit it with BreakFree penetrating oil. I backed the bolt out as far as I dared, and then hammered on the socket in hopes of breaking the bond between the nut and the clip. Nothing works.

I can't use heat because of the fuel lines. I can take a dremel and cut away the clip so it doesn't damage the fuel line. I can't imagine the clip is an expensive item to replace, if it's available.

Is there a better way? This seems like the kind of problem the old hands might have a trick to solve...

Thanks,
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[cucvrus]

You need to grind down a 13 MM open end wrench. Remember I said about a thin 13mm and a thin 15mm? Hold that nut and crank it out. It is just a vacuum line. a hose will fix it. Or a new piece of metal line. You can do it.

 

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Got these cone wrenches in the Bike Tools section of REI, $4.95 each. The spider is now out.
https://www.rei.com/product/639275/park-tool-double-sided-dcw-1-cone-wrench
https://www.rei.com/product/639276/park-tool-double-sided-cone-wrench-dcw-2



Rule of thumb for newbies. Plan on spending a day for each hour it takes Rick's wife to do a task.

Note for M1010 owners. To remove the spider you need to first remove the upper A/C bracket and move the compressor over.

 

[cucvrus]

That should be running by 12 noon tomorrow. Good Luck.

 

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Gotta go buy crows feet so I can torque the fuel lines properly...

 

[cucvrus]

Just tighten them up. All is well. If you have it this far no need to go get more tools. i know they have a torque. But tight is good enough. I am sure brake line fittings and hose clamps have a torque. I never see anyone torquing them. Just don't do chin ups on the wrench. And a 3/4" wrench will work just as well. 3/4" is 19.1 mm.

 

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The rocker arm covers (valve covers?) are rusted, so I'd like to remove them and treat the rust. The -30 says,
"Disconnect wiring harness from wiring harness clips along rocker arm cover (3 or 8 )."
for the passenger side valve cover. I'm not seeing how to operate these clips without breaking them. I'm ready to break them at this point, but I thought I'd ask if there's a trick to these.

Thanks,
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