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Some questions on using Gillespie Paint on non-military vehicle

Johndon

New member
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Location
Fl
Planning on painting my dodge sprinter camper van with Rapco 30277 sand and I’ve got a couple questions before ordering and starting the prep. For weather reference I live in FL. Going to spray with a Harbor Freight hvlp and a HF 35gal air compressor.



1. I plan on adding Tractor Supply Majic Catalyst hardener. I’ve read some people use a cap full of hardener into how much I’m not sure, but on Tractor Supply it says to add one pint to one gallon of enamel. Is that correct? Or I was maybe thinking of doing a half pint to gallon of enamel.

2. I’ve heard that with the rapco paint if you put it on to thick it will peel off. Is this correct? And does that mean to thick of one coat or too thick of paint in general?

3. Being in Florida it’s hot rainy and about 60-70% humidity. Would xylene or naptha be better for thinning. And what would you say my recoat times would be approximately?

4. I plan on brushing/rolling it into un sprayable areas like door jams, around the hood, ect. Can I roll/brush it on with the same ratios of hardener and thinner?

5. How much would you suggest I should buy? It’s a 22ft long hightop sprinter van so I was thinking 4 gallons should be plenty?

Going to be my first paint job with a hvlp but everything I’ve read says this is very forgiving paint.

Thanks and man I have been frothing over all your guys rigs on here for last couple days! Very cool stuff!
 
Last edited:

chucky

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If you use hardner its going to make it more glossy . I used 4 parts rapco to 1 part laquer thinner shot it outside at 80 degrees med humidity that day with cheap harbour freight purple gravity feed gun at 30ish lbs pressure 2 hrs later peel the tape and drive it! If you use xylene it takes all day between coats with the laquer thinner by the time you go all the way around the truck you could shoot lighter coat non stop till you run out of paint
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
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Charlotte NC
Planning on painting my dodge sprinter camper van with Rapco 30277 sand and I’ve got a couple questions before ordering and starting the prep. For weather reference I live in FL. Going to spray with a Harbor Freight hvlp and a HF 35gal air compressor.



1. I plan on adding Tractor Supply Majic Catalyst hardener. I’ve read some people use a cap full of hardener into how much I’m not sure, but on Tractor Supply it says to add one pint to one gallon of enamel. Is that correct? Or I was maybe thinking of doing a half pint to gallon of enamel.

2. I’ve heard that with the rapco paint if you put it on to thick it will peel off. Is this correct? And does that mean to thick of one coat or too thick of paint in general?

3. Being in Florida it’s hot rainy and about 60-70% humidity. Would xylene or naptha be better for thinning. And what would you say my recoat times would be approximately?

4. I plan on brushing/rolling it into un sprayable areas like door jams, around the hood, ect. Can I roll/brush it on with the same ratios of hardener and thinner?

5. How much would you suggest I should buy? It’s a 22ft long hightop sprinter van so I was thinking 4 gallons should be plenty?

Going to be my first paint job with a hvlp but everything I’ve read says this is very forgiving paint.

Thanks and man I have been frothing over all your guys rigs on here for last couple days! Very cool stuff!
.
Johndon -

There is a thread from a recent painting by member chucky
He has a really NICE looking truck!
Couple of links below...


 

Johndon

New member
6
3
3
Location
Fl
If you use hardner its going to make it more glossy . I used 4 parts rapco to 1 part laquer thinner shot it outside at 80 degrees med humidity that day with cheap harbour freight purple gravity feed gun at 30ish lbs pressure 2 hrs later peel the tape and drive it! If you use xylene it takes all day between coats with the laquer thinner by the time you go all the way around the truck you could shoot lighter coat non stop till you run out of paint
Alright, I’ll use laquer thinner. I don’t mind the extra gloss if that will give a more durable/washable and better adhesion. How many coats and roughly how thick should they be? Is it correct that if the coat goes on too thick it will peel? Do you know about how long your cargo are is? Just for reference for the amount if you used 5 gallons.

Also awesome work on that rig!! Making me re think the sprinter van and wanting a truck like that!
 

cobra5

Active member
219
194
43
Location
Stevensville, Montana
Just another quick question, Do I need to use primer painting on regular sanded automotive paint?
Not sure what your question is but I'll take a stab at it. If you are asking about the need to prime over the old sanded automotive paint prior to repainting, the answer is no. However, the primer will give you an even color tone to shoot over. So not priming can give you an uneven looking paint job. Also depending how aggressive you got with your sanding, they make a sandable filler primer that will take out some slight imperfections.
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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18,954
113
Location
TN .
Just another quick question, Do I need to use primer painting on regular sanded automotive paint?
IF you broke thru the paint to metal anywhere you should atleast prime those spots with some self etching primer . You can shoot a un sandable primer sealer on all the sheet metal to give you a good base to shoot on and make the paint job last alot longer
 

Captaincarrier

Active member
231
241
43
Location
St Pete, FL
Reviving your thread as I am building a sprinter van and debating between enamel or going the Behr route.
How did your project turn out?

cheers
I rolled a flat Behr on my deuce then I sprayed semi gloss paint I got from Rapco on my M38.

The next time I paint (which will be really soon) I will spray paint from Rapco. I don't recall a noticeable difference in produce price, only the shipping cost.
 
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