Speed governor removal?

[blainedawson]

Can someone explain to me how to remove the speed governor on my m35?

 

[tsmall07]

As far as I know, the only way to remove the speed governor on an M35 is to get bigger tires or replace the engine with a higher revving model.

 

[jdmcgowen]

M35's are just slow..... GO fast and through a rod.

 

[saddamsnightmare]

February 15th, 2009.

I guess what it comes down to is, if you need either more speed or more power then what a stock deuce can do.... you need a bigger or more modern truck. The duece was designed as a replacement for the less robust CCKW's of WWII, which weren't the most overbuilt trucks ever created... serviceable, yes, overbuilt, no.
The limitations on the deuce are four fold: viz, the engine design limits, the transmission, transfer and final axle gearing all conspire together to create a less then fast or overpowered truck. The Governor serves to protect, as best it can, the LD series engine. However, do remember on steep or long downgrades the truck can exceed its red line speed, with rather dramatic results when the engine dissassembles itself. Neither the governor nor the stop bolt under the pedal will protect the truck from "Operator Error".
Even if you replace the engine with a civillian unit, you're still facing the other three limiting factors of the design noted above. If the deuce can do it for you, lay out some long green for a custom Mercedes Benz Unimog, then you can get super fast axles that will allow you to travel at a maximum 70 MPH all day long.
If you learn your deuces capacities, you will find it a fairly useful off road truck, within its weight and design limitations.


Cheers,

Kyle F. McGrogan
1971 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 Wo/W "Saddam's Nightmare"
1963 Swiss Army Cargo Unimog S404.114
1968 Johnson Corp M105A2
1967 Hercules MEP023A Gen Set APU (looking for a trade or a new home).

 

[jimk]

Gov adjustment is explained on page 32 of the LDS 465-1 Troubleshooting Manual.

http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&tid=1&page=2

This engine is similar to the LDT and LD found in many M35s. Max no-load engine speed is 2850-2900rpm. Max operating speed is 2600rpm. Max torque is at 1800rpm.

As engine speed increases the stress on the connecting rod increase at an exponential rate. When the stress it too great the rod or rod bolts break and you have a mess. There is some extra rpm capacity. It is used for a safety factor. Safety factors are so you don't throw a rod every time you drive it. They are also so the rod can survive a billion operating cycles, and the inadvertent "Opps, I went to 3000rpm"event.

The main point here is rod stress increases -very- fast, you don't how much more it will take, and you don't know what it had to tolerate before you got it. Higher RPM tends to shorten life span exponentially. Power output drops off, wear and noise increase. Fuel efficiency drops (see chart page viii).

The rods hard life is reversing direction at TDC because the metal is in tension. Stress from power and reversing at BDC is much easier to take because the metal is strong under compression. Rod bolts are often the weak link. Sometimes an engine's connecting rod big end distorts at high RPM and turns the rod bearing into a oil wiper. Distortion of .001-.002" is all it takes.

You may be able to operate additional (aka excessive) rpm but I don't recommend it. I prefer to run below 2500rpm . Bigger tires , as already stated, are an option. Member M35-Tom was working on a low ratio gear set for the transmission. Replacing the engine with a radically different design, one with a higher operating range is another solution. You could upgrade items (like custom rods, light pistons, stronger valve train) and build your own high rpm version...

Or you could explore the limit of the existing parts.

 

[tsmall07]

Or you could explore the limit of the existing parts.

And let us know how it goes!

 

[nk14zp]

I do not think you can remove it but you may be able to compress the springs or shim them to disable it.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

You will need to carry a whisk broom and a bushel basket to use to sweep up and put the parts in when she blows.

 

[timntrucks]

i agree its just not worth the hassle for 2 or 3 mph to overdo that engine. if in a hurry use your car

 

[steelandcanvas]

Can someone explain to me how to remove the speed governor on my m35?

I'm going to put in my also...probably not the best idea to remove the governor. There are safer ways to get a few more horses out of Her. You can turn up the IP, but then you should have an EGT gauge in the cab. Easy way...just make sure you are doing your PM's, changing your filters regularly, and a little TLC. Treat Her right, and She'll be there for you, maybe not the fastest thing on the block, but She'll be there. Like some of the other Guys have said, the governor was installed to help keep the motor together, leave it alone.

Or you could explore the limit of the existing parts.

 

[tm america]

ya i agree. if you take the gov out you might as well just shot a hole in the side of your motor and cut the rod out at least that way youll save yourself a big tow bill and an epa fine for all the oil you will dump on the street .just turn up the fuel and get some bigger tires youl be alot happier tires are cheaper and easier than changing the motor cuz you went a couple mph faster one time

 

[OPCOM]

Going to 11.00x20's will get you 59-60 MPH instead of 56 MPH.

395R20's with the custom tubeless rims available (only 6 needed, you will go singles) will get you 65MPH? I believe. Someone please comment on their speed with these tires at 2650 RPM.

The deuce engine however has limits to the power it can make and with the big tires, the pump will need turned up along with adding a pyrometer and preferably a boost guage. This is because more torque will be required to maintain the same speed wioth taller tires.

Trucks are slightly different, but trying to keep speed up-hill to 58MPH with 11.00x20's results in 9+PSI boost and 1100-1200 degrees on the EGT (pre-turbo). 1200 deg has been discused as the limit if reliability is desired. Someone please comment.

There is a water injection system that can reduce EGT when it becomes a problem. My tired noggin forgets who it is here that can supply these and they are well engineered. I want one but have to wait since they are not inexpensive.

Eventually however, something will give, not due to overspeed, but overpower/boost/torque. The engine will wear faster.

The dodge cummins pickup truck motor is capable of higher RPM and has more power than the M35's engine. That would be a very nice swap. I have not seen pictures of that being done.

just my 2 cents, as one who likes to drive the beast on the highway and have logged 10K miles of that kind of driving. Others have logged more.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Aluminum melts at 1221 degrees therefore if you run a pre-turbo pyro at over 1200 degrees for any length of time you risk melting the turbo. This isn't cool (pun intended) as the engine can end up eating the turbo.

Watch those turbo temps boys and girls --- happy motoring

 

[BEASTMASTER]

if it ain't broke don't fix it!

 

[phantomk17]

Gov adjustment is explained on page 32 of the LDS 465-1 Troubleshooting Manual.

http://old.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&tid=1&page=2

This engine is similar to the LDT and LD found in many M35s. Max no-load engine speed is 2850-2900rpm. Max operating speed is 2600rpm. Max torque is at 1800rpm.

As engine speed increases the stress on the connecting rod increase at an exponential rate. When the stress it too great the rod or rod bolts break and you have a mess. There is some extra rpm capacity. It is used for a safety factor. Safety factors are so you don't throw a rod every time you drive it. They are also so the rod can survive a billion operating cycles, and the inadvertent "Opps, I went to 3000rpm"event.

The main point here is rod stress increases -very- fast, you don't how much more it will take, and you don't know what it had to tolerate before you got it. Higher RPM tends to shorten life span exponentially. Power output drops off, wear and noise increase. Fuel efficiency drops (see chart page viii).

The rods hard life is reversing direction at TDC because the metal is in tension. Stress from power and reversing at BDC is much easier to take because the metal is strong under compression. Rod bolts are often the weak link. Sometimes an engine's connecting rod big end distorts at high RPM and turns the rod bearing into a oil wiper. Distortion of .001-.002" is all it takes.

You may be able to operate additional (aka excessive) rpm but I don't recommend it. I prefer to run below 2500rpm . Bigger tires , as already stated, are an option. Member M35-Tom was working on a low ratio gear set for the transmission. Replacing the engine with a radically different design, one with a higher operating range is another solution. You could upgrade items (like custom rods, light pistons, stronger valve train) and build your own high rpm version...

Or you could explore the limit of the existing parts.

well said but more important whats that in your pic and why dont I have one yet

 

[Stan Leschert]

If you have to move quickly, you might want to buy a heavy transporter. Or engage in a rail move. The speed that these things were made for is more along the lines of "We are out of Food and Ammo, oh, and the road is out" They will go almost anywhere (if required), but I can guarantee that it won't be quickly.


And please don't remove the gov. Spare engines are pricey enough, without the supply getting further depleted!