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Starting a 6.5 N/A outside a vehicle

BLK HMMWV

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Hi Guys my searches didn't show up anything so I figured I'd ask.
I have a new (to Me) 6.5 N/A that I'd like to fire up and see if it runs and sounds right before going to the trouble of pulling out the 6.2.

Has anyone fired up one in the can?
What did you do for powering up the glow plugs?
I have the engine wire harness.
Just trying to figure out were to supply power and if I need to use the glow plug control box.

Thanks
BH
 

Warthog

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There is a thread from a member in Colorado that fired up 4 engines in the can.

I'll see if I can find it.

You have to modify the rear support so you can install the starter.
 

BLK HMMWV

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Thanks I will search using that term.
I should add that I have an engine and trans still bolted together and it's on a pallet not in a can on the engine stand.
It has the starter allready bolted on it.

BH
 

dilvoy

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You need to put 24 volts to the forward of the two wire connections on the top of the Injector Pump. That will allow fuel to flow into the IP. Then ground to the block and power to the starter lug and the solenoid as well. The solenoid will be temporary until the engine starts ten you don't want it powered. On a Hot day in Southern Cal, you probably don't need glow plugs to start. Maybe a short squirt of starting fluid but not too much. Glow plugs may need replacing and you might not want to go through the trouble changing them on an unknown engine. Do you know why the engine was removed? If it was for an upgrade then it's probably a good one. If not, It may have a problem. Could be a simple problem or not. Overheat and blown head gaskets are pretty common so if it does run, you'll want to then rig up a radiator so you can run it for quite a while at idle. A compression test won't always find a blown head gasket. A leakdown test might though.
 

Gunfreak25

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No glow plugs needed this time of year. Here's a warning on ether:
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_LWm4g35Jw[/media]
How long since it's been started? If unknown I would assume 2 years minimum. You'll want to squirt some marvel oil in the cylinders and rotate the crank by hand a couple times. This next step is your call but is very worth it in my opinion. Prime the oil galleries by running the oil pump on a hand drill. You just remove the speed sensor from the top of the engine in the intake valley "distributor" hole. Take the hex drive shaft to your local steel supply and find a peice of square rod that will work to drive to the oil pump. You can ground down the other end round on a grinder to fit your drill smoothly.

Plug the oil cooler ports too. Or install a short line between the two. But you can plug them without harming anything.

Here is an overlooked part of jumping a surplus engine. Use a shop vac and clean out the intake manifold incase any junk got in there during the military's storage. They did not always keep them capped. If you really wanted to take it one step further you could remove the intake manifold. One guy found a 5" long glow plug boot in his intake port. He couldn't believe it didn't get sucked in.

Lastly is the fuel. No telling how dirty the fuel is in your jerry can, it doesn't take very much to break the rotor shaft on a Stanadyne Injection Pump. I would go get a cheapo gas fuel filter from the auto store and put it between the mechanical lift pump and the injection pump. **** put an extra one going from the lift pump to the jerry can to keep from dirtying up your lift pump. I have 2 surplus take off's if you need one.
 
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BLK HMMWV

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Well Saturday morning I was able to start up the new 6.5. (With Will Wagners help)
I jumped out the two oil cooler lines with a piece of hose.
Unscrewed the oil pressure sender and installed a gauge so I could see what kind of pressure I had supplied power to the front connector on the IP and then brought it to life. I still can't believe you can start an engine without supplying power to the glow plugs or having and brain box or wiring hooked up.
Even with the straight exhaust ( no pipes) it was not to loud . It sounded great. I think it was quieter then the 6.2 with all the exhaust hooked up. I had 70 PSI on the oil pressure gauge at idle. That was untill my hose that I jumped the oil cooler lines fittings together with blew off. But all in all it was a great day.
BH
 

Recovry4x4

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Great news on the ground hop. What method did you use to mod the bracket to clear the starter?
 

BLK HMMWV

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Location
Pasadena California
I didn't have that problem as my engine and trans were on a pallet. The engine came with a starter on it.
The pallet was built so that the motor sat on it's motor mounts in the front and allowed clearance for the starter and the trans was supported in the back.
I just ratchet strapped the bad boy down to the pallet in two places .

Thanks for your help with the search on how to ground hop a 6.5
BH
 

86humv

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He...that means that my 3ea. drive trains should run...:grin:
 
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Gunfreak25

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Yuma, AZ
HA! You guys think your nervous about your unfired motors. I traded my M1 Garand for a surplus 6.2 last year and I still have not fired it up. Been a lot of set backs and have taken my time getting everything setup, installed and fabricated.

It came from here Ranger Rix 6.2 Diesel He was a super friendly guy to talk to, he picked me out a motor that had all the proper cap plugs on all the open ports, cleaned and degreased and repainted the engine before shipping. Included a new set of glow plugs, oil filter and misc brackets and hoses. When asked if it was a runner he said the engine was marked as being a runner when it was pulled from a HMMWV back in 2007 and he did a bar over on the crank to make sure it wasn't frozen from sitting in the Louisiana humidity.

I just need to 2 batteries and mine is finally ready for firing up. Pre lubed cylinders, oil galleys, 2 quart oil filter, capped cooler lines, all gauges hooked up, motor mounts finished, etc.

Yeah I am a bit nervous! I guess we are all gamblin folks here :beer: Slightly old pic of the motor much more finished now.
 

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