tell me about the MEP-501A

[Gunwriter]

tell me about the MEP-501A

what's a fair price for one with low hours in very good condition?

are they prone to any problems?

thanks!

 

[Isaac-1]

Well it is a 2KW 28 Volt DC diesel powered generator, which I guess might have a place in an off grid cabin that uses a 24V battery bank for power when the solar or wind power systems can't provide enough power to recharge the batteries. Otherwise I am not sure what you would use it for.

Ike

 

[Gunwriter]

Well, actually I was interested in it for battery charging.

Any idea on what a reasonable price is for one?

 

[Isaac-1]

That is a tough one, these are current generation models and don't show up on the surplus market very often. I can tell you that the previous generation of 3KW units built in the late 1980's typically sell in the $400-$600 range, this seems to be true of both the 28V DC units and the 60 HZ selectable voltage AC units, with the AC units being much more commonly available. The MEP-501 is much lighter than the older models, and likely has much better fuel economy.

Ike

p.s. some people have expressed concern about maintaining these newer models given their increased use of speciality electronics.

 

[blue collar]

So it is just for recharging batteries? Can it run simple electric things like lights/motors? Is it able to supply 50- 60 htz?
Thanks..

 

[blue collar]

50-60 Hz

 

[bmwsyc]

Dc only. I have a 531, which is the 120 volt, 2 kw, 60 hz brother. I think I got it for less than 500 before fees, but I think I got it for less than I should have. Nice little generators.

 

[bmwsyc]

That is a tough one, these are current generation models and don't show up on the surplus market very often. I can tell you that the previous generation of 3KW units built in the late 1980's typically sell in the $400-$600 range, this seems to be true of both the 28V DC units and the 60 HZ selectable voltage AC units, with the AC units being much more commonly available. The MEP-501 is much lighter than the older models, and likely has much better fuel economy.

Ike

p.s. some people have expressed concern about maintaining these newer models given their increased use of speciality electronics.

I had to replace the circuit breaker on my MEP-531, a specialty shunt trip breaker, just ordered from the manufacturer. I little pricey, but readily available. Engine is yanmar... Or however it's spelled, hard to spellcheck from phone.

 

[DieselGenAC]

In my experience, the 501A can charge pairs of lead acid or AGM batteries as long as they are not deeply discharged. If you attempt to charge large, deeply discharged batteries, they can draw enough current to overload the generator and cause major problems. The starter is not wired to the output so you need to make a minor wiring change if you want to start off the batteries being charged. The starter wire or positive on the NATO slave start receptacle needs to be connected to the positive output terminal.

 

[Aswayze]

I have 3 of the MEP-531a 120VAC units. Got all three of them in parts from GL for near minimum bid. I have made 2 complete units out of what I had although one is still not making power.

Engine is an L48 Yanmar and is absurdly reliable. Much like the L70 on your 3k (yes I am the guy who got it running for you a while back) it will start and run pretty much no matter what you do to it. The main problem you do encounter with these is if they are ran with no or low loads they will pack up with carbon pretty fast but in general, all you need to do is pull off the supertrap on the exhaust, scrub it down then spritz a little water down the intake while it is running and it will HACHOO! out all of the built up crap in the head. Then just put the supertrap back on and you are back to work.

I have seen the 501s for sale near you on Manhattan Craigs List for around $150-$200 although I would not consider that an “average” price by any means.

 

[blue collar]

So i got one last week in the auction, and try as I might I cant seem to get it started. It had no fuel or oil, so I added both. It just wont seem to kick over. I pressed the red lever to de compress each time ipulled the rope, but no worky, any tips?

 

[blue collar]

Do I need to bleed the air out of the steel line like on a cummins?

 

[blue collar]

yes it was a bleeding issue, no fuel at the injector!

 

[Aswayze]

Particularly with these.

First bleed through the filter then crack the line open at the pump, then again up at the injector.

Should kick right off after that.

You'll do well to just go ahead and pull the supertrap off and clean it up right away, that's a fairly routine maintenance thing with these.

GREAT little engines on these things!

 

[ETN550]

Sometimes these are a bugger to bleed. Here is a tip. Remove the recoil starter housing and spin them with an electric drill using a socket on the crank nut. Hold the decomp lever down by hand and have the injection line cracked at the injector, and the run lever set to full fuel. Spin it until steady fuel comes out at the injector nut. Reassemle and start in the normal manner.

 

[blue collar]

Yup that method worked great for me! the rpm fluctuated for about 3 min but then it evened out at it starts and runs great. I knew I should have bought two....

 

[Artisan]

So these MEP501A Diesel Generators are not good to try to start a 24V truck if you leave teh battery switch on?
Can you guys recommend a military generator that will do what I want or is there a way to do something
so I can use a MEP501A to start a truck where the battery switch was left on?

 

[wsucougarx]

You beat me to it Brad. Just wondering the same thing

 

[wsucougarx]

Well, just got back from JBLM with two of these generators. I don't see any reason why a guy cannot use them to jump a truck. I'm going to try them for that purpose

 

[Artisan]

Sweet! I am just tapped right now Mike...I need ot $ave my dabloons...