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The 666 is finally home

White666

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Cheney wa
That old cummins doesn't run to bad there, have any more shots of just the motors? I would be interested in seeing how you do the PT conversion also.
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
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I'll take some more pictures of the motors. All of the engines I was talking about have the decompression lever. The cummins in the 1964 road tractor we have at the museum also has a decompression lever.

About 10yrs ago, the red locomotive that has the same engines (the red one in the video) wouldn't start without pulling it out, letting it spin up to speed, then letting it in. Batteries were too weak to do it with compression on the engine. It was something else having your hand in there, mere inches from the spinning fan of doom.
 

White666

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Cheney wa
I'll take some more pictures of the motors. All of the engines I was talking about have the decompression lever. The cummins in the 1964 road tractor we have at the museum also has a decompression lever.

About 10yrs ago, the red locomotive that has the same engines (the red one in the video) wouldn't start without pulling it out, letting it spin up to speed, then letting it in. Batteries were too weak to do it with compression on the engine. It was something else having your hand in there, mere inches from the spinning fan of doom.
sweet, sounds like the decomp lever you have ins in the same place mine is....i was guessing that it was a decomp but wasn't 100% sure yet.
 

White666

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Ok, I had a semi busy couple of days working on the 666. Finally got it fired up with surprisingly little smoke, considering the truck hasn't ran in so long, the fuel is pretty old and the amount of cranking I had to do to get everything primmed and ready. The only major issue i had (other then cooking my jumper wire for the starter) is that I have to sit on the fender and pump the IP primer to keep it running...maybe my pump is wore out....maybe I need to add an electric pump to keep the injector pump happy....any ideas will be accepted and appreciated.
Now that i know it is going to be a good runner, I will be gutting the old rotted harnesses and converting the truck to 12v from end to end. Here are few new pictures taken by the girlie friend.







 

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NDT

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Camp Wood/LC, TX
I would look for air leaks in between the ip and the tank. Cracked lines and hoses. It should not need a boost pump. Have you figured out much else about your truck? The front rim is the correct WWII rim, but I can't tell about the rears. The rears (duals originally) should be the same rim as the front. Your truck appears to he the cargo version wheelbase, but those never had the front winch, except for the ECT tractor. I wonder if that is what you have. The ECT's came out in 1945 and all had the 14.00-20 big rubber. Are you missing the passenger side hood lower panel? I may have an extra one. Also, there should be some screen in the oval hood openings, I sourced that from Mc Master if you need the p/n.
 

White666

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Cheney wa
I would look for air leaks in between the ip and the tank. Cracked lines and hoses. It should not need a boost pump. Have you figured out much else about your truck? The front rim is the correct WWII rim, but I can't tell about the rears. The rears (duals originally) should be the same rim as the front. Your truck appears to he the cargo version wheelbase, but those never had the front winch, except for the ECT tractor. I wonder if that is what you have. The ECT's came out in 1945 and all had the 14.00-20 big rubber. Are you missing the passenger side hood lower panel? I may have an extra one. Also, there should be some screen in the oval hood openings, I sourced that from Mc Master if you need the p/n.
Well, I did figure out it is a'45 ECT tractor, the data plates were in the glove box, took a bit of work to get it opened (i'll get a picture of them posted in the morning). I have both side panels, just had them off on both sides to access the starter and pump on the cummins a little easyer. The correct wheels are still with the guy I got the truck from, not sure if he'll let them go with the truck or charge me extra for them, they were moved away from the truck when I picked it up so He may be keeping them....will find out when i go back to have him sign the title paperwork.
A P/N for the screen would be welcome....once I have the truck moving and moved over to my storage yard I'll be bringing a couple pieces home at a time for repairs and paint, starting with the hood pieces and windshield frame. If you know of anying who has the fold out windows for this truck I would be very interested...they were not in the parts boxes and it looks like they have been gone a long time.
 

White666

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Cheney wa
Also, my air pump works great, that was a big surprise, but the lines to the front and rear trailer conection are cut and bent over, the pressure in the tanks bled off in about 5min. I haven't tried to drop it into gear or move the PTO till I have all the chains free and the u-joins greased...and the engine running without dying of course.
 

White666

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Cheney wa
Here are a couple more new pictures. Got the truck running again today, still getting air from somewhere...or my injector pump is shot. It won't run unless someone is on the fender pumping the primer. I took a shot of the ID tag for the truck to show that this is a White 666ECT....I don't know what the differences are other then the bigger tires, so if anyone wants to fill me in I would appreciate it. I also grabbed a pic of the rear suspention for anyone who asn't seen this set up before... Quarter elpitic springs with 4-link style control arms forward and backward for the axles.
 

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NDT

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The ECT's and the B666 Brockway crane trucks had the combat wheels and the 14.00-20 rubber. The hubs are different on these trucks to move the wheels out from the frame. The usual cargo trucks had 9.75-22 skinny rubber. The ECT is very low production, under a few thousand units. The cargo bed was deleted and 5th wheel installed, plus the combat wheels. You may have rear lockers, check the data plate on the SD353 axles. I would insist on getting the remaining 8 combat wheels, they should go with the truck. Installed, they do make the truck overwidth, however. I am beginning to suspect the crane rig on the back of your truck is not military original. If there is no green paint on it I think I would torch it.
 

White666

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Cheney wa
Thanks, I am learning all I can about this thing, there isn't the amount of info out there like the Chevy and GMC's of the same years...or even the bigger wards or similar trucks.

I'll hit up the seller this week when I go back for the bill of sale, hopefully he hasn't hid the wheels away yet.
 

OSO

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When you ask about the factory wheels,and he gives you some lip. Just say the tail goes with the hide. Old time speak, everything goes that it came with. Great project ! Keep us posted[thumbzup]
 
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White666

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Cheney wa
Ha, I don't think i'll have any big issues with him. hes just another MV and international collector, good old guy. It might cost me a couple bucks since he did sell the truck as it sat and nothing about the stock wheels was advertised, so i won't be looking for a hand out.
 

White666

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Cheney wa
Ok, I have decided that the crane is going to go, need to pick up a new air compressor so I can fire up the plasma cutter and get it off the back. The boom and the pullies/top pivot are military items (they are OD green under the black spray paint atleast....no names or numbers I can find to run on them) but not original to the truck. After looking at a lot of the welds, I wouldn't trust the frame work to hold up to the kind of weight the winch could handle.
I have also decided to start looking for a newer model diesel to swap in. I need something that is either front sump on the oil pan, or short enough that I can raise it up in the engine bay to clear the diff. The PO added extensions to the frame bump stops to limit the front spring travel to about 1/4 inch.
 

NDT

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Complete agreement on the crane remove and motor swap. The ancient Cummins is not correct anyway, and you would have to own ExxonMobil to afford to run the original gas Hercules HXD, so I would go with the latest model 10-12 liter engine with mechanical injection and no intercooler that I could find. Don't plan on using the stock Fuller 4A86 transmission either, with the 1:1 top hole. A 13 speed, hopefully still bolted to the replacement engine, would make for 50 mph speeds with the 14:00's. Any more than 300 hp though and the poor T77 transfer will likely croak. It has a ball bearing supported intermediate shaft which is known for the bearings wallowing in the case bores.
 

White666

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Cheney wa
Good to know, I was going to put the word out for a Cummins big cam 350 as I already have an SAE bellhousing that will bolt the motor to the stock trans....they are still easy to get parts for, thousands of them were put into all different rigs over the last few decades and they can be had without turbo, with a single or with twin turbos, so power isn't hard to build or tune. I would love to find a trans with a double or tripple over drive, but if there is room I know of a good working brownie box I can pick up for a good price.

Do you know of any one who sells rebuild parts for the T-case?
 
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