The tale of an '003A

[Ray Cook]

Hello, everyone.
A long time friend of mine had 2 MEP's given to him by his then father-in-law, an 002A and an 003A. Both ran when he got them, but then sat for some time. As he had no plans to use it, he offered the 003 to me. I thought it to be a good idea to verify running condition prior to attempting moving it, so I did exactly what you're NOT supposed to do. I bought 2 fresh batteries and tried to start the engine. Nope. I had fuel to the injection pump, but nothing coming out.
So, I began to do some research and found you guys on Steel Soldiers. After spending many hours reading, I figured I had damaged the pump. So round 2 with the generator was a couple weeks ago. I removed the injection pump from the engine. I also removed and washed out the fuel/rust/bunk/sludge/junk that was in the fuel tank, clack-clack pumps and fuel filter bowls. I flushed the system with a concoction of fresh diesel, Mercon ATF, Marvel Mystery oil and some Diesel Kleen from Power Service as I'd read about others on here doing. I brought the pump back home, and just like you guys said, the plunger guide was broken. I rebuilt the pump with your guidance and parts from the 'Bay.
So round 3 was yesterday. I re-installed the pump on the engine, then put fresh (and treated) fuel in the tank. After letting the pumps prime the system, I cranked the engine with the injector lines loose till I saw fuel dribbling out. I tightened the lines, hit the starter, saw a bit of white smoke from the exhaust pipes and the engine roared to life without any help from the glow plugs! I ran it for 20 or 30 minutes last night with no problems. The cooling shutters seem to work fine.
Anyway, THANK YOU ALL for your help in getting this noble machine operable again!!!
Now I just hafta figure out how to lift the daggone thing....

 

[Guyfang]

Ray,

First, welcome! Second, you are in the groove. Even though you didn't RTFB to start with, you learned more about your set, fixing that I.P. then most folks will ever learn. So, good job! Its nice to hear a story like yours. Take care and be safe!

 

[Scoobyshep]

Congrats on venturing into the mysterious world of injection pumps.

Lifting can be a bit wonkey, my 003 came off the transport trailer partially by sliding, tilting and the assistance of an engine hoist. bout a month later it ended up on a new trailer, engine hoist and hand winch.

either way, have fun with it, mind your toes, and dont be afraid to ask.

 

[Chainbreaker]

You took the most important step for the life of your MEP-003a... you found this forum! Not only that but you did the research and uncovered answers to problem(s) your genset was having. The fact that you were able to troubleshoot your genset and follow the advice on this forum without having to start your own "help thread" and were then able to repair your genset is a testament to both the SS Forum and Yourself! Good job!

As far as lifting goes, are you talking about loading/unloading onto a trailer to transport to your place? All methods have been used from dragging/winching/rolling on pipes up a ramp, to lifting with a weight rated tractor/back hoe, using engine hoist, block & tackle etc. Just be mindful of the genset weight listed on the placard as that is a lot of iron to drop or let get away from you. BTW, I used a tractor with an implement on the back of tractor to counter balance the weight of generator out front on pallet forks. With a -002 it wasn't too bad but I moved VERY SLOWLY & Deliberately with that much weight out front. With an -003a it would have been iffy with my little Kubota Tractor.

Anyway, welcome aboard and let us know how it goes.

 

[robertsears1]

A few things I have learned since getting my 003a many years ago:

1. Set the RPM to hold 60 hz (or 61.5hz) and then DO NOT TOUCH IT Even for shutdown. You can buy a Kill a watt meter at Lowes and plug it into the duplex outlet and monitor the hz and amps, even if the gauges don’t work.

2. I think you have learned this by now but you must hold the switch in start until the interlocks are satisifed. Mine has a slow to satisfy low oil pressure switch even though the pressure comes up nicely. It requires -14 sec on mine to keep running upon release.

3. Never change the voltage/phase switch with the engine running (located under the flip up plate under the main breaker). You also need to exercise this switch and the other rotary switches on the control panel From time to time. I failed to exercise mine for a couple of years and it required major surgery to correct.

4. The main breaker is more or less a big contactor that will kickout if overloaded. You can load this up to slightly more that 100% and it will usually not kickout for a few minutes. I did not really understand this for about the first year and kept thinking I needed one in line to power things.

5. The little duplex plug is for very lightly powered items only.

6. Drop the main panel and wiggle and check every connection (engine off) .

7. My 003a loves preheat, even in the summer. If you don’t see white puffs out the exhaust after a few seconds of cranking, it is not getting fuel. I recently had that issue and the fuel shutoff solenoid mechanism was sticking ( up front on the right side under the hinged “close while running” cover).

Robert

 

[Ray Cook]

Thank you all, but don't pat me on the back too much. My head will swell and I won't fit out the door
For what it's worth, the generator is a Libby, with a build date of Dec. 1984. The hour meter (a Hobbs) shows 45.2, but that never moved while I had him running Friday night. The other meters work, as do the panel lights. Hot running oil pressure was a bit more than 30, per the gauge. My meter showed voltage on the output lugs, but I haven't actually load tested him. Yet.

The generator is in Irwin, PA, about 20 miles south of me. The 20 miles is no problem; Wesley can handle that easily. (Wesley is an old green F-150. Ain't fast, or pretty, but reliable as the sun.) The gen-set is on some cement pads on the ground. I have a chain hoist, and we can borrow an engine crane. I'm hoping between those 2, and some buddies, and some pizza, we can lift it straight into the truck. This end will be more challenging as it has to go on an elevated sidewalk and then around the house. I thought about calling a tow company with a boom truck to lift him up there. Chainbreaker's idea of rolling on pipes is genius.

Thank you all for the knowledge, advice and support. Ray in PA

 

[steelypip]

You should run it monthly, ideally. That'll guarantee it's always ready to go. Mine has proven reliable when ignored for months at a time, but I do put a lot of biocide in the fuel tank, keep it full and tarped so there's not much water intrusion or condensation into the tank.

 

[Ray70]

Fantastic job Ray. Glad to see you took the time to research your issue, gather the necessary data, find parts, repair your pump and get your gen running all on your own.
Nice to see you were able to successfully utilize all the info already posted over the years!

 

[Ray Cook]

Update. Since we've last 'talked', I've made it down there at least once a month and started the engine. The hour meter now shows 46.3, so it does work, but I'm not certain how accurately. Also, the engine will start without any glow plug help down to about 60 degrees or so.

At some point, I noticed the machine always seemed to have an oily wetness to it. Eventually, I traced that to one of the top nuts that holds the fuel filter canister assembly together. When I took those apart to clean the bunk out of them earlier, I didn't have 1 tight enough and it was leaking. Quick snug with the socket wrench, and all fixed, right?

Wrong. I was there last night for a lil new year's eve party, and since I was there early, I figured I'd fire up the engine and get my fix of Onan diesel music. I never did put much fuel in the tank, as we still have to move it, and fuel adds weight. Well, there wasn't enough fuel left to start the engine, but I did crank it over for several seconds just to move the injection pump. Everything else is dry, and there was still fuel in the filters and pumps, so the tank has to have a slow leak.

So back to Steel Soldiers we went for advice. As soon as I finish this and hit 'send', I'm going in search of Caswel Plating's epoxy so I can repair the tank, though that'll probably have to wait for nice weather. I'm glad to have a plan of attack!

Happy new year, all

 

[Guyfang]

Propper prior planning, prevents piss poor performance. Your Good!

 

[GopherHill]

I recently lined a motorcycle fuel tank with a coating , wasn't por15. It worked well. Follow instructions carefully. It will cure small pinhole leaks.

 

[G744]

Bill Hirsch sells a really good tank sealer, specially made for Diesel fuel tanks.

I've had great luck with it.

Auto Restoration Supplies for Classic Cars, Antique Cars, Exotic Cars - HirschAuto.com

www.hirschauto.com

Dennis

 

[Ray70]

I have used the Caswell plating epoxy tank sealer exclusively on a good 8-10 MEP tanks with 100% success.
I have plugged everything from pin holes to stuff you can stick a pencil through and have a good 8+ years of use on some of the tanks with no signs of failure!
Sounds like you only have a small leak.... probably right near the tank drain or at the bottom seam, both are very easy to fix with the sealer.