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Tire repair

cranetruck

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If the tire is worth it, a Cap Shop can re-vulcanize a section in them.

Lee in Alaska
They are probably worth it, I have only found 1 (one) tire in two years, that wasn't mounted on another truck therefore not sold separately.
This particular tire was only produced for this vehicle and fewer than 500 trucks were ever built. Tire is 16/70-20 or 16/70R20, although marked "16-20".
 

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Westech

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Side wall holes like a nail or something little I have plugged (just to get home) But side wall cracks, dry rot, large splits = death. There is just no way a tire will hold up to any speed with the side wall degraded like that. Its time for new skins.
 

cranetruck

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These are the parts needed for easy reference:

Filler (part A and B): 2640-00-137-5720

Buffing solution: 2640-00-138-8324

Vulcanizing fluid: 2640-00-242-3467

Primer: 2640-00-138-8323

Cementing and vulcanizing stitcher: 5120-00-293-0392
(81349) MIL-S-45179

Based on this image, the damage is "only" to the outer layer and the question then is how much it actually adds to the strength of the tire.

Edit: Added image of bias ply tire detail
 

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M1075

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I had a 15.5 tire vulcanized once and it cost over $400! That was a mistake because I can get new tires in that size for less. If you have a tire that you can't replace or replace cost effectively, it might be worth a shot. Then again, you are still rolling on some OLD tires, definitely doesn't look like a long term solution.

Bjorn, are there any current radials that would be a suitable alternative? What about the 15.5/80R20 or 395/85R20 tires? They are commonly available for cheap!
 

cranetruck

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James, currently produced tires that will fit include 405/70R20 and 375/75R20 (14.5-20), but the original tires were apparently designed for low pressure, 30 psi highway and 10 psi off-road, tubeless on 12 inch wide "rims" (wheels).
 

tm america

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what's the hieght of the tire you have on there .i would change em out.if they are 48" tall you can go with 14.00r20 with are easy to find in xl's and if they are closer to 46"i would go with a 15.5 which are easier to find than the 395's and have more weight capacity the 15.5s are rated at 14,500 per tire single and they do way better than the ndt's in all situations .i got my 15.5s for $100 per tires 95 to 100% tread
 

cranetruck

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Right you are, Gimp, the design of the tires for this series of vehicles is an integral part of the overall package.
The low pressure, the aspect ratio (70%, which keeps the CG low), the tubeless feature for light weight should not be compromised IMHO. They were not used on any other vehicle except for some testing on the Lockheed "Twister".
The performance of the 900-20 and 1100-20 NDTs were well known in the mid sixties when these tires were designed, so I'm sure that was taken into consideration.

I don't plan to drive more than a few hundred miles/year, so with some care (the reason for this thread), the tires on the truck should continue to perform as originally intended.
Image shows them compared to the 1100-20 NDTs.
 

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ctmustang

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that tire looks like it has some age on it. been working around tires for 23 yrs. and have seen alot. I would say it would be ok for around the neighborhood but not at any kind of sustained speed.don't forget your 5 point harness & helmet.
goodluck C.T>:razz:
 

cranetruck

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It's probably safe to say that none were made after 1990, even the NOS tire I have has a date code "499", which should be the 49th week of 1989. That's about the time the vehicles were all surplussed.

So, how important is the outer layer to the overall strength of the bias ply tire?
 

m16ty

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I'm no tire expert by any means but I have been known to try and get by on "qestionable" tires and have them blow out :-D. I'd say the tire with the cut is unservicable.

Reckon you could find a modern tire with pretty close to the same measurements and have it recaped with the correct tread patern? You could find some worn out tires for cheap and have them recaped.
 

tm america

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what is the height of the tire there is a grader sitting down the street from my house that has tires and rims that look very similar i need more info so i can go see what they are , its been sitting there for at least ten years
 

JDToumanian

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Well, I'll go against the grain and tell Bjorn what he wants to hear... :-D Here goes:

That tire doesn't look that bad to me. I'd run it.

I'd make sure it's on the rear, so if it does happen to blow it won't cause a loss of control. I'd make sure the cords weren't cut and I'd patch it per the TM.... Maybe Googling the NSN numbers will turn up a supplier for the repair compounds?

It's not like this truck is going to be hauling a Pershing Missile trailer again. (though that would sure be cool...) It's just going to be running light for fun and show, right? I don't think there's going to be enough weight on that tire to make it blow.

Regards,
Jon
 

cranetruck

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what is the height of the tire there is a grader sitting down the street from my house that has tires and rims that look very similar i need more info so i can go see what they are , its been sitting there for at least ten years
The grader tires are probably the correct size, 405/70R20, but the problem is that they are not built for "speed" and max out at 30 mph or so.
There are some Michelin tires used by Unimoggers that are correct, all with "tractor" type treads and about $1,000/ea.
The original 8x8 tires (16-20) are about 42 inches tall and 15 inches wide.

Thanks Jon, you are on my wavelength. :)
The really "bad" tires go on the rearmost axle and I'm considering suspending it for highway travel (don't have any plans for a trailer..yet).
I have a couple of nice Goodyear ones for the first axle. As far as loosing control with a blowout, having two steering axles should help regaining control along with the power steering if any one tire fails.
 

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