torque rod ends

[73m819]

I think my torque rods are going Bad. I have read how to test them. Do I need to take the springs off to get the top rods off? Or can I just take them all off one by one?

You can get to them without pulling the springs EXCEPT the wreckers, the walking beam needs to be gone, on the others just jack the axle DOWN and you can get clearence, then do the other axle, you need to pull the tires on everything but a tractor for working room

Put a jack between the axle and frame, jack till the nut/socket can be worked on

 

[topo]

You can take them off with out removing the springs .I did one side and then the other . you can do them one at a time and if you need to replace any brake lines or seals it's a good time to do it .

 

[Vintage iron]

I have been checking things over and found that the rear axles were not in line. I looked closer but things look fine. It worries me because there is only about 3/4 inch between the 1600's. I would hate to have them hit. I will check the trunnion too.

 

[Csm Davis]

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AoJuiPMjMpsVdC1OLTN2WGtXNzVNcUsxVnotLXZYUlE

Check on the spreadsheet I think you can get them line 22 Navistar 98657R11

 

[Vintage iron]

Great info and I have good news. I checked rear suspension it is tight and strong. I will be up grading the trunnion bearings and replaced all 12 torque rod bushings. I am thinking of lenghting the torque rods to Give more room between the tires.

 

[plym49]

Great info and I have good news. I checked rear suspension it is tight and strong. I will be up grading the trunnion bearings and replaced all 12 torque rod bushings. I am thinking of lenghting the torque rods to Give more room between the tires.

My understanding is that the I-beam section of the torque rods is needed because they are designed to twist as the axles articulate. Most if not all of the rods I have seen lengthened had solid stock welded inside the channel. Would this not limit the ability of the lengthened rods to twist? Curious.

 

[73m819]

You lengthen the torque rods, the axles WILL NOT fit the springs right unless you lengthen the springs, would NOT be good to pop of a spring

 

[Vintage iron]

Yes! splicing suspension parts is never a good idea. I was going to have my friend mill off the ends and build new longer ones using the old ends. The ballistic ends are expensive. Yes, 73m819 you are correct about lengthening the springs. I would have to have longer springs made.

 

[73m819]

Yes! splicing suspension parts is never a good idea. I was going to have my friend mill off the ends and build new longer ones using the old ends. The ballistic ends are expensive. Yes, 73m819 you are correct about lengthening the springs. I would have to have longer springs made.

Then TWO driveshafts made, also new longer BRAKE lines

 

[Vintage iron]

73m819 do you know the revision for the trunnion. I seen that there was a revision made to the trunnion. The revision replaces the bearings. I when I replace the suspension parts I would like to up grade the trunnion too.

 

[topo]

I don't know what the ideal space between 1600 tires is ? . Longer springs longer torque rods moving axle stops just these things you will lose axle travel . changing to air ride may be worth looking at ?

 

[73m819]

73m819 do you know the revision for the trunnion. I seen that there was a revision made to the trunnion. The revision replaces the bearings. I when I replace the suspension parts I would like to up grade the trunnion too.

No sir I do not, but should be in the later editions of the -260 TMs (809), or might be in the -272 TMs (900 5ts)

 

[Vintage iron]

Thanks 73m819 for the info. If I lengthen my torque rods, I am not going for a Canadian spread. Just enough so my hand can fit between the rear tires.

 

[jaxsof]

Eriks as them for $90, and it is the same one used in an M270A1. The newest PN is A2110L116 which is a Meritor/Axletech number. The NSN is: 2530-00-740-9620 if that helps. Uncle pays $55.04 each for them.

 

[MyothersanM1]

Top Rod Inner Nuts X-(

OK fellas...a little lost here and I need some pointers. I have successfully replaced all the rod ends and reinstalled the four bottom torque rods on my M818 with a deuce bed. Piece of cake.

Now the problem. I have read here and have discussed with SS members that the two top bolts on the crosstube bracket, behind the right spring pack can be worked by obtaining clearance by jacking each axle down one at a time. I have even jacked between the frame and the axle to where the axle was compressing the rubber stop. I cannot get anything in there to successfully work on the nuts. The spring pack u-bolts and top clamp do not afford any working room no matter what location they in. I have tried an offset box head, combination and socket wrench. I am short of removing the spring pack because nothing is working and with that off the work area will be wide open.

Please advise on your experiences. With many thanks in advance...

 

[topo]

I bought a 2 inch wrench used a grinder to open it to 2 1/4 . then when I could not get it any tighter I used a punch and a hammer to snug it to the next hole for the cotter pin . it is something I watch it has not loosened up .

 

[MyothersanM1]

topo...were you able to bust loose the old nuts during removal with the modified wrench? If I didn't have a bed on the truck the offset wrench would handle it no problem. I can't work above the frame rail due to the bed.

 

[topo]

Taking it a part I heated up the nut and used a hammer and punch .

 

[73m819]

You may have to pull the tires, without the bed, you should have no problem jacking things to get to nuts, when I had my m52, I changed both tops just using jacks to get nut clearance, then a BFH and a BIG punch bar, now doing wrecker tops is a all together different story.