Towing a CUCV

[2deuce]

I need to tow a CUCV about 500 miles with a 5 ton. I've got a tow bar but this is the 1st time I'll be using it. It doesn't appear to make a difference whether the adapters have the 3/4 hole up or down. Is there? I thought I would remove the rear driveline at the axle and tie it up. Front hubs free and transfer case and transmission in neutral. A safety chain between the 2. Are there any recommendations or things I've forgot. Thanks, Greg

 

[blackdog]

If I remember right, the towbar adapter pieces needed to be put on the CUCV facing opposite directions (up and down) so you can fit the pins in.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Also, the pins that fit the front are 1". If you are using 3/4" there will be some slop. You should also turn the key one click forward to unlock the column. With all the positive caster the Chevrolets have, it will track real nice/

 

[rizzo]

I read somewhere that when towing it should have the t-case in N and trans in park.

for 500 miles I cant see the harm in unhooking the rear shaft.

 

[CCATLETT1984]

I read somewhere that when towing it should have the t-case in N and trans in park.

for 500 miles I cant see the harm in unhooking the rear shaft.

correct, you can ask westy what happens when you dont pull the driveshaft.

and if you leave the trans in neutral it will rotate and destroy it.

 

[2deuce]

I didn't think about the steering column. Thanks for that tip. I do have 1" pins for the adapters, its just that they can be mounted 2 ways, it doesn't appear to matter. These adapters have 2 mounting holes a 1" and a 3/4" to attach to the vehicle since I'm using the 1" the 3/4 hole will be unused. I was wondering if it should be up or down or if it mattered?
Are you saying that if the driveline is left attached to the trans it will turn if the trans is in neutral? I wanted to leave the driveline attached so oil wouldn't leak out of the trans. I'll put it in park if thats betterThanks

 

[mangus580]

DO NOT leave the driveline attached. Unhook the driveshaft from the rear, and tie it up so you dont have to worry about the fluid.

With the driveline unhooked, you shouldnt have to worry about neutral on anything.

 

[Crash_AF]

His statment was that if you are flat towing for a short distance, put the transfer in neutral and the trans in park. With the trans in neutral and the transfer in neutral, the transmission can turn and wear out the internals because the oil pump is on the input shaft which won't be turning.

Make sure you run a few wraps of tape around the u-joint caps after disconnecting the driveshaft so they don't fall off during the trip.

Later,
Joe

 

[2deuce]

Ok I think I got it. I'll do as I originally thought with the driveline. Tie it up. I have had a lockout hub engage itself once and thought that might have been a concern. For that reason neutral on both won't hurt. Thanks for the tape hint too, I hadn't thought about that problem either. Greg

 

[Recovry4x4]

So you have the towbar adapters that have both the 3/4" holes and the 1" holes? If this is true and you are towing with a 5 ton, you need to install the adapters with the 3/4' hole on the bottom. The bar will be much higher in the front where it's attached to the 5 ton. You just need to make sure you have adequate travel up and down so that you don't snap off the towbar. You can leave the driveshaft in the back of the tranny to stop fluid leak, just make sure you unbolt it from the rear axle and tape up the ujoints as Crash AF says. BTW, welcome Crash, it's about time we had some Air Force representation here.

 

[Crash_AF]

Neutral on transfer only, tranny in park if you're worried about hubs engaging. Don't mean to be rude with the emphasis, but it's this important:

DO NOT TOW WITH BOTH THE TRANSFER CASE AND TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL! DOING SO WILL CAUSE SEVERE DAMAGE TO THE TRANSMISSION.

Thanks for the welcome, I've had fun reading the posts for the last few days and finally decided to join the fun.

Later,
Joe