Tried to start her today....

[Baron3-6]

Good news: Engine turns over (good starter) and mechanically everything is lined up well.
Bad news: No spark. Have two new batteries and all new autolite plugs. Initial trouble shooting is showing that no power is getting to the distributor....power regulator box? Fuse?
Last owner blew out the engine (untouched since depot rebuild in 1964) going down hill speeding. Took it to 60mph and blew out the valve covers, thrown rod etc. Would this speed have overloaded anything, possibly blowing a fuse? We pulled one plug there was no spark. Pulled the wire going to distributor and it would not light a test light during a crank with the power on...sun was going down by then.

>in other news the horn sounds great<

Thanks!!

 

[NDT]

No fuses anywhere on the truck. Make sure you are getting 24V to the ignitor. If yes, pop the top and ohm out the coil, which is notorious for burning up if ignition is left on, or it is made in china. Motor looking good from above!

 

[axlr8]

nice looking m37? anyways what he said sound right!

 

[Baron3-6]

Ok, took my distributor assembly to an old motor sgt friend who adjusted the points for me. Still do not think I have the source of the problem, and I'm not sold that its the coil (YET). The small connecting wires on the coil are covered and are not grounding out either (saw this has caused problems for some on another forum)

Reason is, hooked up a test light tonight. 2 new batteries and the ignition switch on. The post on the starter lights it up.....the wire leading to the distributor does not however (12). The mid-point connector between the voltage regulator and the distributor has no light as well. I noticed in the 1955 version of the -10/-20 (see pic) that in the ignition section it shows some breakers being there - one of these out maybe? Are they under the regulator cover? At this point I'm thinking said relays, regulator, or the switch itself.

Does the switch have one on position or a START and a RUN? Mine has so much old paint on it I can't tell. There is also a random toggle switch installed on the dash between the choke and hand throttle, any ideas on that one?

Thanks for the help.

 

[NDT]

The ignitor is not protected by circuit breakers. The number 12 wire leading to the ignitor has to have 24 volts for the engine to fire. The ignition switch is on/off only, on is turning it to the right. Make sure the Cannon connector is solidly screwed into the regulator, all the vehicle's electricity is routed through it as seen in the diagram. There is a shunt inside the regulator for the ammeter. If the voltage regulator is unplugged, the vehicle's electrical system will be de-energized.

The M37 did not have any toggle switches originally.

Sounds like you are very close to figuring this out, there is not much else to check.

 

[longshot2171]

My 1963b1 has a battery switch on the seat frame in addition to the one on the dash. When in the off position, the starter will still crank but there is no power to the ignitor or gauges.
...also on later 37's, check the ignition filter that is mounted inside the distributor housing.

 

[longshot2171]

My 1963b1 has a battery switch on the seat frame in addition to the one on the dash. When in the off position, the starter will still crank but there is no power to the ignitor or gauges.
...also on later 37's, check the ignition filter that is mounted inside the distributor housing.

 

[Baron3-6]

....and the winner is.....the ignition switch.
Get power into the switch but nothing out of socket "D" where wire 12 goes to the distributor. wired around the bad switch and WALLA current to the distributor.
Now I just need to find 4-5 hours of daylight to actually start her. Does anyone have a NAPA part # for the switch OR is there a key ignition that you can replace it with? Just curious.

 

[NDT]

Good for you. The military standard ignition switch is the same for jeeps, Dodges, Deuces etc. There always seem to be some on ebay and all the dealers have them. You can also replace the mil switch with a key switch available at any auto parts store.

 

[196thprober]

Ok, took my distributor assembly to an old motor sgt friend who adjusted the points for me. Still do not think I have the source of the problem, and I'm not sold that its the coil (YET). The small connecting wires on the coil are covered and are not grounding out either (saw this has caused problems for some on another forum)

Reason is, hooked up a test light tonight. 2 new batteries and the ignition switch on. The post on the starter lights it up.....the wire leading to the distributor does not however (12). The mid-point connector between the voltage regulator and the distributor has no light as well. I noticed in the 1955 version of the -10/-20 (see pic) that in the ignition section it shows some breakers being there - one of these out maybe? Are they under the regulator cover? At this point I'm thinking said relays, regulator, or the switch itself.

Does the switch have one on position or a START and a RUN? Mine has so much old paint on it I can't tell. There is also a random toggle switch installed on the dash between the choke and hand throttle, any ideas on that one?

Thanks for the help.

Really appreciate the Ignition Diagram and thanks very much everyone for this thread!

 

[popz76]

I'm replacing the old keyed ignition with the correct switch. Here's a pic of the old switch as it's wired up..my question is , where do the 4 wires go on the nos switch ? I don't want to fry anything if I do it wrong !

 

[joshuaz223]

the nos switch should only have two posts. keep the wires paired and place them on the new posts.

 

[Baron3-6]

Check this link for a wiring diagram:
g741.org • View topic - dodge m37 ignition switch

Also, what I did was run new 14 gau wire directly from the GI switch to the coil....removing the distributor filter...etc...I used the same dorman ignition you've got, just that I spliced it into the center of the distributor line and installed it on the existing dashboard hole on the right side of the steering wheel. The only two leads I used were the battery and ignition. This allows a little security, but keeps it looking GI.