Truck shutting off after driving/ return valve?

[Iamnewatthis]

truck shutting off after driving/ 2nd UPDATE last post

Update last post.

2nd update last post


It was not the return valve.
After cleaning many times it kept doing it.

It was not the fuel pump.
After replacing fuel pump it kept shutting down.

The factory fuel filter base may or may not have been a contributing
factor. After changing it to a spin on base and bleeding air out, it was still cutting out.

In proper bleeding of the air was probably a factor. The civilian manual only says to bleed it at the fuel filter, while the TM's procedure also has you pulling the return line on top of the IP pump and cranking engine till you get a stream of fuel from there as well.

It was not a clog in the fuel lines, i blew them out with an air hose 3 times.
At least not the main line running down the frame anyway.

I believe it may have been the sending unit.
The gas gauge had been reading empty no matter how much gas was in it.
Im not saying that was shutting off the truck but maybe an indicator something wasn't right with it. I looked at the sock on it and couldn't tell if anything was wrong with it but who knows.
I replaced the gas tank, (spectre 25 gallon) and the sending unit.
As well all the rubber sections of fuel line.
I used a siphon pump to pull as much gas as possible to the fuel pump.
And then the fuel filter, pouring the fuel stream into the spin on filter to prime it.
Cranked it longer than i wanted to but it started, test drove about 3 miles still running.
The gas gauge is reading right now as well.
Off to take the dogs for a ride and a soft serve ice cream!
Thanks for everyones help and input!

 

[ralbelt]

It just unscrews, dissconnect the rubber hose and IIRC a 13mm wrench and it screws off . clean with some spray carb cleaner and the glass ball should be clear and not stuck.

Also be sure that the pink wire on top of the IP has a clean and tite connection.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

It just unscrews, dissconnect the rubber hose and IIRC a 13mm wrench and it screws off . clean with some spray carb cleaner and the glass ball should be clear and not stuck.

Also be sure that the pink wire on top of the IP has a clean and tite connection.

Thank you for your help, i forgot to say i did clean very well all three wire connections going to it. I took the whole unit off the top too. But there was nothing to do, and it was full of fuel inside too.
I will take off the top part tmrrw and take pictures of what i took off today. thanks again.

 

[Warthog]

Since the tech manual section is down, JATONKA is hosting the CUCV manuals on his website. It is event posted in the WIki.

www.jatonkasm35s.com

When you reconnected the wires on the injector pump did you put them back in the proper place?

If they are messed up, it will shut off the fuel flow. The cold advance will work for a few minutes and then just shutdown. If this lead is on the fuekl shutoff then it will act just like what your truck is doing.

The pictures of the injector pump have been posted many times.

 

[Warthog]

Thank you for your help, i forgot to say i did clean very well all three wire connections going to it. I took the whole unit off the top too. But there was nothing to do, and it was full of fuel inside too.
I will take off the top part tmrrw and take pictures of what i took off today. thanks again.

What did the inside of the fuel bowl look like? Nice and clean? Clear fuel? Dirty with black specs?

 

[Iamnewatthis]

What did the inside of the fuel bowl look like? Nice and clean? Clear fuel? Dirty with black specs?

Clean bowl and clear fuel, amber in color.
Where do i find these picks of the return valve/wiring?

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Heres some pics to make sure im looking at the right thing
I pulled all the contacts and cleaned them.
Are they in the wrong spot?
I pulled that black hose at both ends, cleaned it out.
I unscrewed where the hose goes to the top, cleaned it out, i did not see any ball?
Is that even where it is?
I also removed the whole top, the fuel inside looked good, and there was no junk floating around in it.
Not sure what im doing, went to the site where the tm's are, could not find any pictures of the return valve/glass ball.
Is this the right place?
I know i should have took pictures when it was all apart.
Guess i'll do it again and see if i missed anything.

 

[Midnight Rider]

You might have the 2 part fuel return valve.

I have 2 different types of fuel return valves that I trade off when they get dirty.

I believe a 9/16" deep well socket is what you need to remove it. The 2 part fuel return value has a smaller section that can unscrew.

My 2 part fuel return valve didn't have the glass ball in it. The single piece does. The single piece is also considerably shorter.

I'll try to post up some pics after work today if you need them. The weather is nice and I probably need to clean out my fuel return valve again anyway.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

You might have the 2 part fuel return valve.

I have 2 different types of fuel return valves that I trade off when they get dirty.

I believe a 9/16" deep well socket is what you need to remove it. The 2 part fuel return value has a smaller section that can unscrew.

My 2 part fuel return valve didn't have the glass ball in it. The single piece does. The single piece is also considerably shorter.

I'll try to post up some pics after work today if you need them. The weather is nice and I probably need to clean out my fuel return valve again anyway.

Man that would be great, thanks so much.
I'll take it apart again and take pictures.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Okay this is what mine looks like;

 

[Iamnewatthis]

another update;

took it apart again and cleaned everything again.
still dont feel like i actually did anything as there really wasnt anything visablely wrong.
short test drive, okay.
waiting for friends to show up for a real test drive in case we have to push it back.

For whatever reason, the engine is running much quieter. I dont know why or how, but it is.
It was also shifting from 1st to 2nd smoother than it has been. I know one has nothing to do with the other but just making observations. This truck has a mind of its own.

 

[Midnight Rider]

It looks like you have the 1 piece return valve. I found that one is a little easier to clean than the 2 piece valve.

You mentioned shifting issues. I know when my return valve gets clogged my 1009 won't shift as smoothly. So if I start noticing it not shifting smoothly I know I need to clean that part out. Usually after it is clean it goes back to smooth sailing again.

I'm not sure about sound though. My 1009 is pretty much loud all the time.

Soon as I get home I can post some pics. I think I did post up a pic in some thread of the 2 piece valve. I'll see if I can find it.

 

[Midnight Rider]

Found a picture of the 2 piece valve.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

It looks like you have the 1 piece return valve. I found that one is a little easier to clean than the 2 piece valve.

You mentioned shifting issues. I know when my return valve gets clogged my 1009 won't shift as smoothly. So if I start noticing it not shifting smoothly I know I need to clean that part out. Usually after it is clean it goes back to smooth sailing again.

I'm not sure about sound though. My 1009 is pretty much loud all the time.

Soon as I get home I can post some pics. I think I did post up a pic in some thread of the 2 piece valve. I'll see if I can find it.

man you are great, thanks so much.
i guess i will watch for that and when its hard shifting i'll clean it.
its been hard shifting for awhile.
thanks again.

 

[Pooch1128]

Midnight Rider, this is great man, glad to see someone helping out with no BS or rants, very refreshing...

 

[Midnight Rider]

Hey, I'm not an expert on anything by any means, but I try to help out where I can, when I can.

This board has been a big help to me and I would like to be able to return the favor.

 

[jdemaris]

Okay, engine shutting off on me problem not solved.

I would like to clean the return valve.
Any advise would help greatly, thank you.

You don't clean the valve for a good fix. You replace it with a new one, AFTER you fix the real problem, that's causing it to plug.

A new valve only costs around $4. It serves two purposes. #1 It is a one-way check valve to eliminate hard starting from fuel drain-back. #2 it is housing-pressure-regulator.

I've had to fix hundreds of those pumps with what sounds like the same problem. The Roosamaster/Stanadyne D, DB, and DB2 pumps are used on many farm and industrial engines, besides the GM 6.2s and Ford IH 6.9s and 7.3s.

Up to early 1985, the pumps used on 6.2 diesels had a plastic damper on the governor that always falls apart. When it does, it plugs that valve. This gives you an engine that starts well, and then slowly loses power and quits. Over and over and over.

After early 1985, the plastic part was eliminated and all pumps that got repaired were supposed to be upgraded.

I suspect you've got an early pump with a failed dampener. Shoulg be easy to see. If you find little specs in the pump that look like mouse-turds, that is your real problem.

Takes an hour on the bench and $75 in new parts to fix correctly and upgrade.
That's if you do it yourself. Pay much much more if you pay a shop to do it.

 

[Iamnewatthis]

You don't clean the valve for a good fix. You replace it with a new one, AFTER you fix the real problem, that's causing it to plug.

A new valve only costs around $4. It serves two purposes. #1 It is a one-way check valve to eliminate hard starting from fuel drain-back. #2 it is housing-pressure-regulator.

I've had to fix hundreds of those pumps with what sounds like the same problem. The Roosamaster/Stanadyne D, DB, and DB2 pumps are used on many farm and industrial engines, besides the GM 6.2s and Ford IH 6.9s and 7.3s.

Up to early 1985, the pumps used on 6.2 diesels had a plastic damper on the governor that always falls apart. When it does, it plugs that valve. This gives you an engine that starts well, and then slowly loses power and quits. Over and over and over.

After early 1985, the plastic part was eliminated and all pumps that got repaired were supposed to be upgraded.

I suspect you've got an early pump with a failed dampener. Shoulg be easy to see. If you find little specs in the pump that look like mouse-turds, that is your real problem.

Takes an hour on the bench and $75 in new parts to fix correctly and upgrade.
That's if you do it yourself. Pay much much more if you pay a shop to do it.

That is some real good info for sure. I will go get the new valve tmrrw. Do you have a part #?
Also, when i took the top off and looked in the bowl, the fuel looked good, as well as the bowl, i didnt see any specs or anything. What do you think?
thanks for this help.

 

[jdemaris]

That is some real good info for sure. I will go get the new valve tmrrw. Do you have a part #?
Also, when i took the top off and looked in the bowl, the fuel looked good, as well as the bowl, i didnt see any specs or anything. What do you think?
thanks for this help.

Pressure-regulator valve - Stanadyne and Spaco # 15830.
General Motors # 10149645

Maybe you ought to check that valve and verify IF it's actually plugged. If it IS, you' ve got an internal pump problem. Nothing in the fuel coming to the pump, can make it's way all the way through to plug that fitting where excess fuel exits.

Since your rig is a model year 1985, I don't know if you've got the bad pump, or not. And note that if it WAS one of the early bad ones, and got updated, it is supposed to have a triangle-shape ID tag on it to show it was fixed.

Here's a list of 1985 pumps, from early to late.

DB2829-4386 23500256 1984-85 CUCV (Military), HD C/K, D Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4521 Note 2
DB2829-4410 23500251 1985 HD C/K & P Truck C/K DB2829-4544 Note 2
DB2829-4411 23500252 1985 HD G Van G DB2829-4509 Note 2
DB2829-4412 23500253 1985 HD C/K Truck - ALT. C/K DB2829-4510 Note 2
DB2829-4413 23500254 1985 HD G Van - ALT. G DB2829-4511 Note 2
DB2829-4425 14077168 1985 LD C/K Truck C/K DB2829-4502 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4426 14077171 1985 LD C/K Truck - ALT. C/K DB2829-4506 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4427 14077169 1985 LD G Van G DB2829-4503 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4428 14077170 1985 LD G Van - ALT. G DB2829-4507 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4437 23500273 1985 LD C/K Truck - CAL. C/K — —
DB2829-4439 23500275 1985 LD G Van - CAL. (Auto. & Man. Trans.) G — —
DB2829-4440 23500276 1985 HMMWV (Military) - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4523 Note 2
DB2829-4441 23500277 1985 HD C/K & P Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4512 Note 2
DB2829-4471 23500398 1985 HMMWV (Military) C/K DB2829-4524 Note 2

 

[Iamnewatthis]

Pressure-regulator valve - Stanadyne and Spaco # 15830.
General Motors # 10149645

Maybe you ought to check that valve and verify IF it's actually plugged. If it IS, you' ve got an internal pump problem. Nothing in the fuel coming to the pump, can make it's way all the way through to plug that fitting where excess fuel exits.

Since your rig is a model year 1985, I don't know if you've got the bad pump, or not. And note that if it WAS one of the early bad ones, and got updated, it is supposed to have a triangle-shape ID tag on it to show it was fixed.

Here's a list of 1985 pumps, from early to late.

DB2829-4386 23500256 1984-85 CUCV (Military), HD C/K, D Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4521 Note 2
DB2829-4410 23500251 1985 HD C/K & P Truck C/K DB2829-4544 Note 2
DB2829-4411 23500252 1985 HD G Van G DB2829-4509 Note 2
DB2829-4412 23500253 1985 HD C/K Truck - ALT. C/K DB2829-4510 Note 2
DB2829-4413 23500254 1985 HD G Van - ALT. G DB2829-4511 Note 2
DB2829-4425 14077168 1985 LD C/K Truck C/K DB2829-4502 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4426 14077171 1985 LD C/K Truck - ALT. C/K DB2829-4506 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4427 14077169 1985 LD G Van G DB2829-4503 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4428 14077170 1985 LD G Van - ALT. G DB2829-4507 Note 2 except (d)
DB2829-4437 23500273 1985 LD C/K Truck - CAL. C/K — —
DB2829-4439 23500275 1985 LD G Van - CAL. (Auto. & Man. Trans.) G — —
DB2829-4440 23500276 1985 HMMWV (Military) - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4523 Note 2
DB2829-4441 23500277 1985 HD C/K & P Truck - 1.2 cSt C/K DB2829-4512 Note 2
DB2829-4471 23500398 1985 HMMWV (Military) C/K DB2829-4524 Note 2

Okay, I looked and there is a metal tag hanging off of the top cover, its not triangular, its a straight tag hanging off with the letter "E" on it.
Also are the pressure regulator valve and the return valve the same thing?
I though we were talking about the return valve.
I put pics up a page back of what i cleaned.
Thank you for the part #'s.