• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Two little mysteries-Starter and Transfer case

30
67
18
Location
Burwell Nebraska
Hey all, it's me again... I've spent the last week's free time working down the issues list and I ended up stuck on my starter, then skipped to the transfer case but thats a different story.

Back to the starter, it died last august and I had it replaced with one of those smaller ones because it was before I started learning to fix my own stuff and thats what the mechanic told me to do. 600 bucks later my wallet was sad and the truck started instantly. The warm temps certainly helped but it was an incredible change from the old 8 second crank. Then as time marched on it slowly started to start slower not dramatically but definitely slower I put this down to the cooler weather. The unsettling thing was it didn't go back to nearly instant even on relatively hot 60+ days still I didn't mind much as its a diesel in cool weather and I'm in no hurry.

The real trouble started about a month ago the starter would engage the flywheel and crank normally for a second then spin free. This would repeat 3 or more times until I'd get a grumbly smoky start and then I'm home free. After some research and watching a few videos I was confident it was the bendix and it was just dirty so I dropped the starter cleaned everything I could reach and reattached it. Same deal engage, disengage and spin. At this point I'm stumped and any help would be very much appreciated.

Now the transfer case, ah the tales it could tell plowing snow in 4low jumping puddles in 4high and various other bits of hard labor plus whatever the army did with it. About a week ago I tried to get down into 4low and It started grinding when I tried to pass neutral, then when I gave up and tried to go back it ground again. After some slight panic and images of my eternity stuck in neutral I started screwing around and eventually found I could shift the transmission to park then drive then park again and that would free the case to come back to the light side aka 4high from there on everything works unless I try 4low again.

Few bits of additional information, first some images of the starter - attached.

Now my process to shift into 4 low Lock hubs transmission neutral transfer case neutral transfer case 4low this worked for almost a year with no issues.

Only thing I could think of is the case doesn't seem to lock into neutral before I try to shift down.

Thanks for any replies!

Nick
 

Attachments

GeneralDisorder

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,026
5,209
113
Location
Portland, OR
Chinese Carquest trash. Most of the starters for sale are similarly absolute trash. If you have your original they can be rebuilt. Also check all your battery terminal connections and wire lugs, etc.

If you want the starter to end all starters (I haven't tried one out on my CUCV but have used them on other SBC and BBC applications) - this is your ticket. I would call them and make sure it would fit but I don't see why not.


Transfer case - grinding tells me that things are spinning. Logically that means the transmission is spinning it's output when it's in neutral. Can you shift the transfer case when the transmission is in park?
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,266
1,781
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Does your new starter have the starter support bracket for that starter? If not, don’t start it again until you do.

Here is a video I did about the starters and brackets:


The transfer case is supposed to be able to go from 2 hi to 4 hi while moving. Every other shift is supposed to happen with the truck stopped and transmissions in neutral. You getting grinding with the transmission in neutral and the truck stopped going from 4 to 2 hi is very common. Putting the transmission in park seems to work the best.

Then you have drive train wind up. This happens because the front and rear axles travel different distances when turning. Just like the left and right tires on each axle do in turns. The tires have the differential to let them go different distances. The NP208 transfer case isn’t a differential. So, often the gears inside the transfer case if turning a lot or on a traction providing surface will have a lot of stress locking the gears together so tight they can’t slide apart by the shifter handle. Driving straight back on dirt or other loose surface often seems to be the best way to loosen things back up. Unlocking a front hub will do it as well but is hard on the lockout hub gearing.
 
30
67
18
Location
Burwell Nebraska
Chinese Carquest trash. Most of the starters for sale are similarly absolute trash. If you have your original they can be rebuilt. Also check all your battery terminal connections and wire lugs, etc.

If you want the starter to end all starters (I haven't tried one out on my CUCV but have used them on other SBC and BBC applications) - this is your ticket. I would call them and make sure it would fit but I don't see why not.


Transfer case - grinding tells me that things are spinning. Logically that means the transmission is spinning it's output when it's in neutral. Can you shift the transfer case when the transmission is in park?
Sorry it took me so long to reply the wifi kicked the bucket

"The starter to end all starters" Sure sounds great and I'll keep it in mind if I have many more issues.
Thanks for the tip.


Nick

P.S. will try shifting in park when I get home
 
30
67
18
Location
Burwell Nebraska
Does your new starter have the starter support bracket for that starter? If not, don’t start it again until you do.

Here is a video I did about the starters and brackets:


The transfer case is supposed to be able to go from 2 hi to 4 hi while moving. Every other shift is supposed to happen with the truck stopped and transmissions in neutral. You getting grinding with the transmission in neutral and the truck stopped going from 4 to 2 hi is very common. Putting the transmission in park seems to work the best.

Then you have drive train wind up. This happens because the front and rear axles travel different distances when turning. Just like the left and right tires on each axle do in turns. The tires have the differential to let them go different distances. The NP208 transfer case isn’t a differential. So, often the gears inside the transfer case if turning a lot or on a traction providing surface will have a lot of stress locking the gears together so tight they can’t slide apart by the shifter handle. Driving straight back on dirt or other loose surface often seems to be the best way to loosen things back up. Unlocking a front hub will do it as well but is hard on the lockout hub gearing.
Incredibly helpful video thanks very much.

As far as the transfer case goes thanks for the explanation on drive train wind up really helps me picture it will try shifting in park.

Thanks
Nick
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks