U Joint adventure

[CROM]

Well, after my front axle problem and wheel bearing replacement, I decided to take everything apart and inspect my work. Not that I don't trust myself, but as our Quality Assurance sections says: "In God we trust....all others we test, check, inspect and verify." Everything I replaced looked good, and while I had everything off of the front end, I figured I may as well pull the spindles and propeller shafts to replace the front U-joints...after all, they just 'pop' on and off, right? ....wrong. Now I'm not sure if there is some sort of trick to removing factory U-joints from the front axle, but the only trick that worked for me was a plasma cutter and a hydrolic press. Thank God I have a mechanically equiped buddy who is more than willing to work for beer. I bought the top of the line U-joints (and needed the press to get them seated) so I should be set for a good long while. Anyone else ever played this game? There has to be an easier way to do this....GM just can't be that mean...

 

[CUCV85]

Well, after my front axle problem and wheel bearing replacement, I decided to take everything apart and inspect my work. Not that I don't trust myself, but as our Quality Assurance sections says: "In God we trust....all others we test, check, inspect and verify." Everything I replaced looked good, and while I had everything off of the front end, I figured I may as well pull the spindles and propeller shafts to replace the front U-joints...after all, they just 'pop' on and off, right? ....wrong. Now I'm not sure if there is some sort of trick to removing factory U-joints from the front axle, but the only trick that worked for me was a plasma cutter and a hydrolic press. Thank God I have a mechanically equiped buddy who is more than willing to work for beer. I bought the top of the line U-joints (and needed the press to get them seated) so I should be set for a good long while. Anyone else ever played this game? There has to be an easier way to do this....GM just can't be that mean...

Vise, Socket to fit U Joint, hammer
- Hot wrench if needed.

 

[Westech]

you took the inner C clips out right?

 

[CROM]

Yes, clips removed. CUCV85, not familiar with a 'hot wrench'. And what type of socket are you talking about? As I said above, I have the means to cut and press, but if I could do this in my own garage, I'd be happier.

 

[Westech]

I never have had to heat a u joint out.. besides the vinal locked ones..... sounds like op error

 

[blybrook]

Yes, clips removed. CUCV85, not familiar with a 'hot wrench'. And what type of socket are you talking about? As I said above, I have the means to cut and press, but if I could do this in my own garage, I'd be happier.

Hot Wrench, Blue Wrench, etc... are the same tool; A Torch (you had a plasma cutter so that works too).

Typically you can do them yourself with a C-Shaped ball joint tool in your garage or yard, although a vise, hammer and socket or the appropriate size work much better as you have a lower chance of bending the axle shaft ear (have done this with the hydraulic press too).

Place the shaft in the vise so that you can get a good aim on the cap. Remove the clips. Place a socket on the cap that fits in the ear properly and hit it with a BFH (may take a few blows). Finish driving out the old joint, then repeat driving the new joint in.

Goes fairly quickly once you get the hang of it.

 

[CUCV85]

Yes, clips removed. CUCV85, not familiar with a 'hot wrench'. And what type of socket are you talking about? As I said above, I have the means to cut and press, but if I could do this in my own garage, I'd be happier.

Hot Wrench is a torch - a last resort
Socket to use is one that fits perfectly to U Joint - for impact assistance

 

[rickf]

I have found that if you put never seize on the outside of the cups they will slide in much easier.

Rick

 

[kassim503]

Be careful with vises to crank out U-joints, its a quick way to strip out the threads in your vise rendering it useless. When the going gets tough the tough whip out a bigger hammer

 

[CROM]

Hot Wrench, Blue Wrench, etc... are the same tool; A Torch (you had a plasma cutter so that works too).

Typically you can do them yourself with a C-Shaped ball joint tool in your garage or yard, although a vise, hammer and socket or the appropriate size work much better as you have a lower chance of bending the axle shaft ear (have done this with the hydraulic press too).

Place the shaft in the vise so that you can get a good aim on the cap. Remove the clips. Place a socket on the cap that fits in the ear properly and hit it with a BFH (may take a few blows). Finish driving out the old joint, then repeat driving the new joint in.

Goes fairly quickly once you get the hang of it.

So you're saying secure the shaft, place a socket over the cap and strike while the joint is still connecting both pieces of the shaft? Wouldn't that damage the other ears of the shaft? Sorry, this is the first time I've ever attempted this and I dont' want to damage anything....I can swing a hammer pretty hard.

 

[CROM]

I have found that if you put never seize on the outside of the cups they will slide in much easier.

Rick

Never Seize. Sounds handy. Thanks!

 

[blybrook]

So you're saying secure the shaft, place a socket over the cap and strike while the joint is still connecting both pieces of the shaft? Wouldn't that damage the other ears of the shaft? Sorry, this is the first time I've ever attempted this and I dont' want to damage anything....I can swing a hammer pretty hard.

Yes, I'm saying that you secure the shaft in the vise; remove the clips, then place your socket / drift over the cap & hit away. As long as you hit the socket, it will not damage the other ears. You'll see / feel it starting to move and can get the caps out before you bottom out the hammer on the ears.

Then you swap which shaft is in the vise and remove the joint from the other half.

HTH

 

[FireFighterHill]

Look up the procedure online. Videos are easy to find.

 

[FireFighterHill]

Removing a U Joint from a Drive Shaft: Replacing a Rear Axle U Joint | eHow.co.uk

 

[FireFighterHill]

u joint removal - Google Search

 

[CROM]

Yes, I'm saying that you secure the shaft in the vise; remove the clips, then place your socket / drift over the cap & hit away. As long as you hit the socket, it will not damage the other ears. You'll see / feel it starting to move and can get the caps out before you bottom out the hammer on the ears.

Then you swap which shaft is in the vise and remove the joint from the other half.

HTH

Starting to make sence. I'll give the other side a try this weekend. Worst case, I still have access to that press. Thanks for the info! This truck will turn me into a mechanic, yet!

 

[ranchhopper]

Place the socket or a piece of solid round stock in the vise put the U-joint cap on the socket and hit the other side or topside of the yoke with a hammer behing the topside cap while holding the driveshaft under your arm much easier and a bigger target to hit than a socket.

 

[blybrook]

Place the socket or a piece of solid round stock in the vise put the U-joint cap on the socket and hit the other side or topside of the yoke with a hammer behing the topside cap while holding the driveshaft under your arm much easier and a bigger target to hit than a socket.

I do NOT recommend this method as you have a good probability of bending an ear should that joint be stuck in there good.

The above procedure I've described was shown to me by three different mechanics in a transmission shop that did it that way long before getting an arbor press or a hydraulic press with the proper dies. I'll stick to a method that has a very LOW chance of screwing up the ears.

I did put a stuck joint in a 12ton hydraulic press (non harbor freight), not only did it bend the ears badly, it bent the press arbor. I had to replace that stub shaft (front axle D60); thankfully I found it available locally new $3 less than a junkyard; still an expensive lesson!

 

[CROM]

I do NOT recommend this method as you have a good probability of bending an ear should that joint be stuck in there good.

The above procedure I've described was shown to me by three different mechanics in a transmission shop that did it that way long before getting an arbor press or a hydraulic press with the proper dies. I'll stick to a method that has a very LOW chance of screwing up the ears.

I did put a stuck joint in a 12ton hydraulic press (non harbor freight), not only did it bend the ears badly, it bent the press arbor. I had to replace that stub shaft (front axle D60); thankfully I found it available locally new $3 less than a junkyard; still an expensive lesson!

I think what I'll do is use the press to remove the joint. Last time I cut the joint in half with the plasma cutter (I'm a rookie, it seemed easier), but from what you guys have told me; the press (and it's a top-notch piece of equipment) is going to be the best way to avoid damaging ears. Thanks for the input, gentlemen!

 

[CROM]

Oh! I almost forgot. Is it possible to press/hammer the caps into the ears too far? I realize that with a hydrolic press that I'm using some serious pressure and could crush the whole thing, ears and all, if I wanted to; but if I leave 1/4" of cap out of the ear can I hammer it in too far? And if so, how do you tell if you've over done it? Is there a certain amount of cap that needs to protrude from the ear? I have a good inside/outside micrometer to measure with.