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where can i get paint?

adamrossol01

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hey guys so im living in manitoba, canada. im wondering where i can get paint for my m1008 i want the OD green, but dont really know where to start ive called a few places in town(winnipeg) and nobody carries the CARC i would like a similiar material to work with, dont need the special biohazard stuff in it and what not, just a nice od green that i can paint with rattle cans or brush on with a roller. i would like it to look as the same OD green that the CARC is and maybe perfer the same texture. any suggestions???
 

insanejecke

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Do you have a lows or homedepot up there they carry it or can mix some for you. And if that don't help google it and you should fine some online stores.
 

adamrossol01

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Do you have a lows or homedepot up there they carry it or can mix some for you. And if that don't help google it and you should fine some online stores.
yes we have homedepot up here, what paint would i be looking for than? do u know the brand name and color name? and how much drying time i have? its winter temperatures and i have a few days at a time in the garage thats heated, other wise it sits in the snow id like to rattle can it if possible?
 

insanejecke

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That I can't help with because my trucks I will be paining black, But am sure if u take a pic of the color you want they can fine it for you.
 

muthkw25

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Go to Rapcoparts.com and check out all their paints available. It's all oil based paint and its all matched and ready to go. Prices are decent and you can select from all different kinds of shades and different era paints used on military vehicles.
 

tobyS

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I think the Home Depot paint is a Behr flat exterior latex that has worked fairly well for several people here. Go to the paint sample chips and you will find a wide range of colors. They say the first couple of days after spraying that it is rather delicate, but then it cures and will hold up fairly well.
 

adamrossol01

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thanks guys! ill check out homedepot, how many spray cans do you all think i should be picking up to spray my truck? im doing the whole truck, and underdash portion.
 

insanejecke

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About 15-20 you want at less two coats on your truck. IF you have a spray gun or a buddy with one, two gallons should be enough. spray cans well it matters on the brand you buy the cheaper ones you will use more.

I have over 20 cans of the paint am doing mine in. it will be bed liner black am using cans because I like the texture it has.
 

tobyS

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Therein lies the problem. Home Depot paint is not in rattle cans. Go to plan 2.

Check out the limited colors of Rustoleum camo and Krylon camo for rattle cans at hardware or farm store. Test them to see if you want to spend enough money to do the project. Apparently Rapco is recommended for them too. Just a guess... but about 2-3 boxes of rattle cans would make a good start but probably not complete it.

The price appears about 6-8x to do rattle cans over house exterior (brushed or your spray gun).
 

SCSG-G4

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Go to the paint department at Home Depot, have the clerk on the paint mixing computer first find "Competitive brands", when they get that list up, have them scroll down to FSS (Federal Supply Service) and select it. It should open up a screen with two places to enter information. In the top one have them type in '383 green' and press enter. Hand them two gallons of Behr Premium Ultra 4300 base (a flat paint base), and tell them to mix it. Done!
 

tobyS

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SCSG-G4, how do you apply that particular paint? Does it need thinned to spray it and does one thin it with water? How is brushing it on?

BTW, I tried a Home Depot about 25 miles from me and they could not find the 383 green color. Now that you explain the process, referencing "competitive brands" and "Federal Service Supply", perhaps that will make a difference. Thanks.
 

tobyS

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M925, I read some consumer reports about the Behr paint that suggest it is a high quality, above some at twice the price. That would probably mean that there are some worse also. I wondered about using my local True Value but then remembered the quality review and now will go back to Behr. At around $30 a gallon, it sounds like a good deal for a high quality paint.

While 383 is the green (is it olive?), I'm wondering about flat black and perhaps earth brown. I can't recall a comment about other camo colors from Behr, but I would assume they are available in the same flat paint.

On another thread, the poster said a flat (not sure but I think polyurethane) clear coat was used when the color (latex) was entirely cured. I think he mentioned that it gave some additional UV protection to prevent "chalking" later.
 

TMNT

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This is the Behr paint that I used for 383 Green. It's near perfect match after it fully dries (2-3 days).

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1386039261.017828.jpg

Also look at post #190 in the thread linked below, there is a PDF attachment with a lot of paint code info. After I taught my local Home Depot how to find and use the Federal Standards codes in their paint computer, they discovered that they already have all of the FS codes in there since Home Depot is a GSA supplier.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showpost.php?p=1341248
 
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SCSG-G4

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SCSG-G4, how do you apply that particular paint? Does it need thinned to spray it and does one thin it with water? How is brushing it on?

BTW, I tried a Home Depot about 25 miles from me and they could not find the 383 green color. Now that you explain the process, referencing "competitive brands" and "Federal Service Supply", perhaps that will make a difference. Thanks.
I've use a roller and a brush, although it can be sprayed - there should be package directions for spraying - basically use an airless sprayer.
 

TMNT

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I've use a roller and a brush, although it can be sprayed - there should be package directions for spraying - basically use an airless sprayer.
I found that ultra-flat paint to be very forgiving, that is, easy to apply. It hides mistakes very well. I sprayed it on using an HVLP gravity feed sprayer from Lowes. I think the cost was about $30-$40. I mixed in a couple of ounces of Floetrol and it sprayed on beautifully. I did not thin the paint, other than the Floetrol. I recommend the Floetrol even if you brush or roll the paint, as it helps the paint level out and brush marks will disappear. If you have an air compressor, the HVLP sprayer is very simple to use and it does a great job.

Either way, proper prep is critical to getting a paint job that will last. Wash it down with a good degreaser and let dry. Use 80-grit sandpaper on any existing paint that you will be painting over. You want to just knock the top off and make sure that the old paint is clean, smooth, and reliably bonded to the surface. CARC dust is harmful. Use a respirator as you do not want to breath in the dust from sanding/grinding. Take care of any rust-through, surface rust, or greasy spots. Prime bare spots with a rust inhibiting primer and let dry thoroughly. I used Rustoleum rusty metal primer, and so far so good after a few months. Blow-off the surface with compressed air and wipe the surface down just prior to painting with denatured alcohol or mineral spirits. And then, paint. After it has cured for a week or two, wash it to remove any of the chalky residue that forms after this paint has been exposed to rain. I can't remember what causes it, but freshly cured latex paint will form a chalky appearance when it is first exposed to water. It generally only happens the first time it is exposed to water, and if you wash it off, it doesn't reoccur.

I'm not a pro and there may be better methods, but that has worked for me.
 

tobyS

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Thanks TMNT for the name of the thinning/leveling agent you use. I would assume available at Home Depot?

I agree completely with your post and do the red rust inhibiting primer also. But I have not applied what is a latex paint...yet. I like the penetrating effect of oil based paints when thinned and the oil has a preserving affect on steel. So I'm trying to adjust my thinking to accommodate water based methods and results

I wonder about other colors and of course, flat black.
 
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