DavidWymore
Well-known member
- 1,598
- 164
- 63
- Location
- El Centro, CA
I think I'm gonna put some in mine...
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Why don't the brake drums have jacking bolts?
- Thread starter DavidWymore
- Start date
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
- 27,785
- 749
- 113
- Location
- Cincy Ohio
I'm not sure what a "jacking bolt" is, to push the drum off the hub?
I've never had one not just fall off once the nuts and bearing came off!
If yours are not coming off, have you tried adjusting the brakes away from the drum?
I've never had one not just fall off once the nuts and bearing came off!
If yours are not coming off, have you tried adjusting the brakes away from the drum?
clinto
Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
- 12,596
- 1,128
- 113
- Location
- Athens, Ga.
Do you mean why aren't the drums a "slip on" design like modern vehicles where you can remove the drum or rotor easily in order to service the brakes without having to repack bearings?
DavidWymore
Well-known member
- 1,598
- 164
- 63
- Location
- El Centro, CA
View attachment 551388
I removed all the little nuts and knocked the drum off the hat that is inboard after I removed the hub from the spindle. If there were jacking bolts (threaded holes in the drum between the mounting holes), one could remove the drum from the hat and service the brakes without draining oil, etc.
I removed all the little nuts and knocked the drum off the hat that is inboard after I removed the hub from the spindle. If there were jacking bolts (threaded holes in the drum between the mounting holes), one could remove the drum from the hat and service the brakes without draining oil, etc.
Attachments
DavidWymore
Well-known member
- 1,598
- 164
- 63
- Location
- El Centro, CA
rustystud
Well-known member
- 9,211
- 2,815
- 113
- Location
- Woodinville, Washington
All big trucks and busses use these " jacking bolts" to help remove the drums. Even with the brakes backed off they can rust themselves to the lip of the hubs making it almost impossible to remove. The way the deuce is made though I don't believe this has ever been a problem. Even if it gets stuck, a good solid "whack" with your "BFH" can loosen it right up.
DavidWymore
Well-known member
- 1,598
- 164
- 63
- Location
- El Centro, CA
Rusty knows what I'm taking about. I think Toyota have them too. Might be able to knock it off with the hub still on there, but I dunno. First thing in the AM.
elkhtr
Member
- 502
- 12
- 18
- Location
- Stanwood, Wa.
I am going through the same thing on my 810 right now.
It took a good 20 minutes of rotating and rapping with the hammer to break the rust bond on the first drum.
As I was letting my arm recover I said the same thing, why no jack bolt holes.
A little penatrating oil, a little pressure from the jacks, tap tap done, should be a 5 minute job.
It took a good 20 minutes of rotating and rapping with the hammer to break the rust bond on the first drum.
As I was letting my arm recover I said the same thing, why no jack bolt holes.
A little penatrating oil, a little pressure from the jacks, tap tap done, should be a 5 minute job.
- 34,012
- 1,808
- 113
- Location
- GA Mountains
To answer the title question, it is this way likely to get troops to service the truck. Unlike road tractors, these are not oil bath bearings. As such, if it's time for the drums to come off, it's likely time to inspect and pack the bearings.
DavidWymore
Well-known member
- 1,598
- 164
- 63
- Location
- El Centro, CA
I think so too. Probably why they just gave you a little inspection hole in the drum. It would be nice if a guy could get in there without going though all that work though, say if you just did bearings etc., and something wasn't right with the brakes.
DH, no, this is the farm-abused water truck that is still in the tear it down and put it all back together right stage.
DavidWymore
Well-known member
- 1,598
- 164
- 63
- Location
- El Centro, CA
Threaded holes in the drum, you could pull it with a puller or use jacking bolts, or even some strategic holes in the backing plate, you could drive the drum off with a bar from the inside. You could still take the hub off too if you wanted to and it wouldn't be so heavy.
Attachments
Jeepsinker
Well-known member
- 5,399
- 452
- 83
- Location
- Dry Creek, Louisiana
Ok, so what is that hub and drum off of? Mine doesn't come apart like that.
- 26,246
- 1,176
- 113
- Location
- NY
You sure about that?
DavidWymore
Well-known member
- 1,598
- 164
- 63
- Location
- El Centro, CA
My deuce. All the pics I've seen look to have the same little bolts. The assembled one I posted above is from someone else's.
- 9,604
- 1,487
- 113
- Location
- mid- michigan
It would make it hard to flip the hubs if they didn't come apart like that.
Jeepsinker
Well-known member
- 5,399
- 452
- 83
- Location
- Dry Creek, Louisiana
I've never taken mine apart that way. I've taken them completely down, and the drums look like that. Maybe it is just the angle of the pic and how it is layed out. Looks different.
I see now, the shield is still on it. Makes the hub look thicker. It is a front hub.
I see now, the shield is still on it. Makes the hub look thicker. It is a front hub.
Last edited:
welldigger
Active member
- 2,602
- 15
- 38
- Location
- Benton LA
It's not an inspection cover per say. It's there so you can adjust your brakes with a feeler guage.
welldigger
Active member
- 2,602
- 15
- 38
- Location
- Benton LA
Yours come apart the same way. Just most people don't take their drum off like that. I personally don't recommend it since you can't check the bearings this way. But it certainly is a different way of doing it.