Winch woes

[truckfest]

I have a 10k winch that works if one mounting bolt is removed so lever can be moved far enough. I think the shifter shaft is twisted. Does anyone recall if the two keyways on shaft are 180* apart? Mine are about 165* apart and I think they should be opposite each other(180*). While I am at it, any thoughts on source for winch parts and gasket/seal kits?

Thanks so much!!
Jeff

 

[m16ty]

I'm not really understanding what you are calling a "mounting bolt". The bolts that I call mounting bolts are nowhere near the shift lever.

I don't recall the location of the keyways but they are not 180 deg from each other. I had a shaft that seemed to be twisted one time. It wasn't a whole lot but but enough that the detents in the lever wouldn't line up right. I was able to weld up the old detent holes and drill new ones to make it work.

I've got a complete set of seals. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=6360 .Send me a PM.

 

[Tinwoodsman]

Deuceman51 sells a set of winch seals for around $50 bucks. As for the bolt near the shaft, there is one on my shift plate where the shaft enters but it does not interfere with the handle. Are you sure the hinged lever on the back plate is not set to stop the lever?

P.S. George at White Owl set me up with a full assortment of winch and pto gaskets.

 

[truckfest]

Winch woes

Thanks for info. I was hoping keyways were 180* opposed on shaft, that way i would know how much correction to make. Shaft is twisted to the point that the "detent end" of shaft lever hits bolt head of "detent plate" mounting bolt. Anyone have a technical drawing of the shifter shaft in their back pocket?

Thanks for your help!!
Jeff

 

[Armada]

No need to yell. The TM's have views of the parts you are having issues with.

 

[General Mcgregor]

GOOOOD LUCK WITH YOUR PROBLEMS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! p.s. the caps lock key is located next to the 'A' key and above your left 'Shift' key

 

[truckfest]

Winch woes

I LIKE ALL CAPS, HOWEVER SOMETIMES WORDS LOOK MISSPELLED IN ALL CAPS. The technical drawing I would like to see and probably does not exist is one a machinest might use to make the Shifter Shaft. I have refrenced the exploded view 16-3 in TM9-2320-361-34 unfortunatly it does not show the relation of the two keyways.
Thanks to all !!
Jeff

 

[gringeltaube]

See it here.... not a drawing but still clear enough, I hope....

The assembly pictured came out of a gov. rebuilt winch, never used since that. All it needed was some general TLC plus replacing a rusty detent ball and spring. Shift lever works flawlessly now, at correct angles so I must assume that the relative position of keyways at approx. 173º to each other is what comes from factory. (Anyone to confirm this......???)

I have two winches on my waiting list for restoration, one with a broken shaft, the other one is twisted bad......
I'm 100% positive that the custom made replacements won't have that weakening groove... since I found there is another (easy) way to hold it all in place.
Will post details asap...

G.

 

[rchalmers3]

....I have two winches on my waiting list for restoration, one with a broken shaft, the other one is twisted bad....

Gerhard,

I cannot recall the purpose of that groove. Was it for a shaft retaining screw to ride in?

I have replaced a shaft that sheared at the groove and left me looking silly with the handle in my hand....... hardly what I expected given the burly nature of the truck.

What are you designing? An external retainer plate?

Rick

 

[truckfest]

I think it's fixed ,was able to get N.O.S. shifter shaft from White Owl.
Keyways on shaft are 180 degrees apart.(+-.02-.03)
I think if one wanted to they could not use a key at handle end of shaft and just rely on bolt to keep handle in any position.
Thanks to all !
Jeff

 

[JDToumanian]

I have replaced a shaft that sheared at the groove and left me looking silly with the handle in my hand....... hardly what I expected given the burly nature of the truck.

 

[gringeltaube]

I'm 100% positive that the custom made replacements won't have that weakening groove... since I found there is another (easy) way to hold it all in place.
Will post details asap...
G.

Gerhard,

I cannot recall the purpose of that groove. Was it for a shaft retaining screw to ride in?

I have replaced a shaft that sheared at the groove and left me looking silly with the handle in my hand....... hardly what I expected given the burly nature of the truck.
What are you designing? An external retainer plate?

Rick

Sorry Rick, don't know how I missed your post...?

Better than any long explanation just take a look at the pics....

It looks as if the stock shaft was intentionally designed to twist/shear at the groove, maybe kind of a pre-engineered revenge for when brutal force was applied at the wrong place............... who knows???

If I could even call this an upgrade.... it really is as simple as can be: forget the stock set screw & groove. To keep the new shaft from being pulled OUT by the force of the detent ball and spring inside the handle an additional sleeve is fit as a spacer in between housing and fork. Washer is optional and may help to adjust for correct lenght, little over 3-3/8" in this case. On the other side of the fork a short coil spring keeps the shaft from moving IN to far. Which could happen when you had the handle off to service the external parts.
The only trick to consider when making a new shaft is that the keyways are NOT 180º opposed as one would assume; they need to be off by about 5º , so that the handle stays within range of detents. There is not too much tolerance left to either end of travel for the fork & clutch collar, between given detent positions.

If anyone wants more details PM me.

G.