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wiring adapter

allie

Member
98
12
8
Location
equinunk pa
Anybodty know how to convert the military 24v outlet on my m931 to accept a civilian common trailer plug that would allow signals etc to work?
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,125
9,384
113
Location
Mason, TN
Just buy a intervehicular cable with the 12pin to 12pin or the plug off of a m116/m200 that goes 12 to 4 wire.

As long as the trailer has LEDs it should be fine.

If you wanted you can use inline reducers for each light and function in the plug harness. They are like $6 ea
 

silverstate55

Unemployable
2,075
872
113
Location
UT

Micmada

Active member
159
211
43
Location
Florida
Just buy a intervehicular cable with the 12pin to 12pin or the plug off of a m116/m200 that goes 12 to 4 wire.

As long as the trailer has LEDs it should be fine.

If you wanted you can use inline reducers for each light and function in the plug harness. They are like $6 ea
Yep. I Simply use two 12V lights in series or a 12V light in between the truck and each trailer light, instead of 24V lights. It is cheaper and more reliable too. No need for an expensive converter, ugh, do a bit of circuit math. Each light drops the voltage by 12. The bonus is you can have lights blinking in front/side (or where er you put them) and back of trailer. $5 incandescent and $8 Led at the Napa trailer section (do not go for the lights at their electrical section, these NaPa brand LEDs are $40-60 !)

An alternative is to use a $35 battery equalizer ( I use two of them) and run a 12V line from one of the batteries to the trailer tail light. The battery equalizer will save your batteries from any imbalance causing the control box and alternator to go funky anyways, whether you set it up that way or not, so I highly recommend getting it from Amazon in their solar panel set up section. I use two of them instead of one just in case the amps get too strong for any reason and in case one fails.).
 
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silverstate55

Unemployable
2,075
872
113
Location
UT
Yep. I Simply use two 12V lights in series or a 12V light in between the truck and each trailer light, instead of 24V lights. It is cheaper and more reliable too. No need for an expensive converter, ugh, do a bit of circuit math. Each light drops the voltage by 12. The bonus is you can have lights blinking in front/side (or where er you put them) and back of trailer. $5 incandescent and $8 Led at the Napa trailer section (do not go for the lights at their electrical section, these NaPa brand LEDs are $40-60 !)

An alternative is to use a $35 battery equalizer ( I use two of them) and run a 12V line from one of the batteries to the trailer tail light. The battery equalizer will save your batteries from any imbalance causing the control box and alternator to go funky anyways, whether you set it up that way or not, so I highly recommend getting it from Amazon in their solar panel set up section. I use two of them instead of one just in case the amps get too strong for any reason and in case one fails.).
Been There Done That...and then some. Got tired of having so many problems & issues related to “easy” and “quick” fixes, I didn’t mind finally spending the money on the XM converter box...installed one on a Deuce as well, and both are still working flawlessly several years later. No regrets; if I ever need to buy another one, I would do so without hesitation.
 
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