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Wiring schematics needed

GOOSE101213

New member
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Location
Knoxville, TN
I need a complete wiring diagram for my M1009 '85 K-5 Blazer. The system was shorted out by parts store when installing a new battery. It is a true 6.2. I need help!!:cry::cry:
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
208
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
if the parts guys messed it up.. guess what.. they have to pay for it to get fixed. I use to run a Checker Auto parts and we had to replace a windshield because a wiper blade that one of my guys installed came off and scratched the glass.

and I would bet just the fuseable link was blown out. no need to rewire the truck for a burn link.
 

GOOSE101213

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Location
Knoxville, TN
Fuseable link was replaced, there is a dead short. It is now an insurance job, but they are making my life a living heck. had to get a lawyer too. This problem happened in June of this year. Just now starting to get a LITTLE progress, but I'm still missing deer season. Thanks for everyone's reply!!!:razz:
 

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
They probably have the battery hooked up backwards... it goes from front to back:
Radiator Core Support to front battery Negative
Front battery Positive to rear battery NEGATIVE
Rear battery Positive to firewall positive buss bar (upper one).

I'd put money on the fact that they probably hooked up the cables like a 12V truck and that just don't work well... it lets LOTS of magic smoke out along with a lovely fireworks show under the hood. Make sure you check out the charging system when you get it back together, they might have fried the diodes in the voltage regulators. Make sure you get the correct alternators, they are special Isolated Ground alternators, NOT standard case grounded ones.

Later,
Joe

Edit:
You are looking for TM 9-2320-289-20
This is the intermediate maintenance manual. You should also download the other manuals that start with the same set of numbers but end with -20P, -34, and -34P. The -P manuals are the parts manuals that contain the GM part numbers for nearly every part on the truck. You can also download the -10 manual which is the operator's manual.
 
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ssgtwright-usmc

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Hawaii
Will your engine even crank or is it just dead in the water? Check those two big resisters on the frewall and make sure that the wires are still intact. Look to see if they have been melted or are soft. If soft, replace wires. Check the starter relay to make sure it wasnt burned out. Also check the ground wires around the batteries and make sure they have good contact. On the fuse buss on the engine firewall, their should be a fusible link of some sort going from Pos post to neg post. That may have burned out and in which may cause you problems also.
 

ssgtwright-usmc

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Hawaii
On the Buss bars on the firewall, their are 5 posts for the positive and 3 for the negative. Their is a wire(resistor) maybe that is what it is called that runs from the 3rd post of the Pos to the second post of the neg. Make sure that this is not burned out. Mine was orange in color but looked to be a very thin wire like chicken cage wire. I am now suspecting that this may be your problem. I dont think your engine was running at the time the battery was replaced so the short is before anything else that would get power.
That wire is about 2 inches long and I think it is a fusable link but I am not sure.
I do beleive that is where your problem lays.
 

GOOSE101213

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Location
Knoxville, TN
Thanks to all of your help. I found a mechanic to look at it, but he is not familiar to military vehicles and 24 volt set-ups.

Does it go like batteries in a flashlight, positive to negative, in sequence?
 

Stihl029

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Location
Kodiak, AK
yes the two batteries are in series like a flashlight
batt one is connected to ground (-) and (+) 12vdc
Batterry two is connected to 12vdc (-) and 24vdc (+)
There is a post on the firewall next to the glowplug module where 12vdc connects to the cab, gen1 output and battery1.

I hope this helps out. It is in all the TM's that we have spoken about on here.
 

Crash_AF

Active member
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7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
In post 7, I listed the correct way that the batteries are supposed to be hooked up:
Radiator Core Support to front battery Negative
Front battery Positive to rear battery Negative
Rear battery Positive to firewall positive buss bar (upper one).

There is a smaller gauge wire that comes off the interconnection cable at the rear battery negative that runs along the firewall to the 12V buss terminal located above the master cylinder. There is a fusible link on this wire that will kill all 12V power in the truck if it's blown.

Later,
Joe
 
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