Rhino can color match as well. It is true that it goes on cold and it is also true that the surface needs to be prepped properly. I suppose the guy running the applicator is as responsible as anybody for the thicker and thinner areas of both liners. Rhino has a curing period of 24-48 hours. The liner uses a chemical reaction to set up. It is extremely tough, I have a friend in the Rhino Lining business and I helped him try to clean up a pickup bed that had water in a seam. Until it sets up, water is a huge no-no in the Rhino process. it causes blowouts and bubbles. As for fasteners, you want to remove them and put foam plugs in their holes. You will also want to cut the liner, pulling any tape lines, etc...before it cures. When we had to try to remove the lining, we used air chisels. We ran through the floor several times and wound up replacing the bed with a new one. Thankfully, a lot of guys put flatbeds on their new pickups and there are some surplus boxes available. Warranty work is only as good as the dealer. I helped him weld the floor back together for a customer that ran a fork lift fork through the floor. He fixed the hole and the liner, even though it was way beyond what was covered. I am not saying Rhino is better than LineX, I have no experience with their products. I know that the LineX beds here have a much thinner coat than the Rhino beds do. You can also request the operator to leave your surface smoother or more pebbled. LineX seems to me to be much smoother in texture than The Rhino stuff. If I was to have it on the outside of my truck, appearance wise, I would prefer LineX, much smoother. For in the box, I would prefer the pebbled high traction surface of the Rhino liner, smae for running boards and fender tops. Lastly, if I was selling LineX, I surely would not brag up the benefits of the Rhino product.... just saying... Glen
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