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Pulling tractor with a deuce engine

Heath_h49008

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Hmmm.... I wonder if we can source custom bolts cheaper without the ARP logo.

Studs sound interesting. Are you thinking we would just spot face the cap and maybe clearance the block? I didn't think it was that tight in there on the sides or the bottom of the sleeve.
 

JOEDEUCE

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I read that thread Heath posted, after seeing the pics, is say that poor bolts are only half the issue, the other half is the rod itself..... Need to find a alternate rod, already in production , with thru bolts.... It may require a lil machine work to the crank or rod , but a good set of new alternative Rods will come with good bolts already installed.... It's the only solid fix I see after seeing how the rods and bolts in the stock rod are used. NEED STOCK ROD DIMENSIONS IF ANYBODY HAS THEM..... NEED ROD LENGTH CENTER TO CENTER.... NEED PISTON PIN DIAMETER ...AND ROD JOURNAL SIZE.... AND WIDTH OF ROD AT THE JOURNAL.
 

m-35tom

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first, $25 per bolt is beyond ridiculous. now i don't remember if the bolts just slide in or are press, but second and much more important, if the rod bolt is a press fit in the rod AT ALL, you cannot just replace the bolts. the big end WILL change shape with the changing of the bolts. so now you are talking about pulling the heads and removing the rods. then it does not make any sense not to magnaflux them, shot peen and resize the big end. also a light hone and new rings would be in order. by the way i have never seen a rod fail, it has always been the bolt, which is the weakest link after all.

tom
 

m-35tom

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the stock rod has thru bolts already and it is rarely the bolt that breaks, usually the threads pull off with the nut and then the other side breakes. just replacing the stock bolts with new stock bolts may be a wise choice, but then you still have the issues above.

tom
 

JOEDEUCE

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Prolly more like $25 per rod, that sounds a lil more realistic for ARP rod bolts.... To me personally, if it meant keeping the old multi fuel in good running order, i would do it . Pull the heads, pull the piston/rods..... Magnaflux , install bolts, and resize , hone , re ring , and re assemble.....
 

JasonS

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Eastern SD
the stock rod has thru bolts already and it is rarely the bolt that breaks, usually the threads pull off with the nut and then the other side breakes. just replacing the stock bolts with new stock bolts may be a wise choice, but then you still have the issues above.

tom

I'll admit to not having the pan off of one but the TM clearly shows that the rod bolts are not through-bolts.
 

JasonS

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OK, given that they are not through bolts with nuts, can the OEM bolts be replaced without resizing the rod?
 

JOEDEUCE

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Thanks Jason, for clarifying that..... Thought they were cap bolts originally..... But since I haven't had an oil pan off either I thought I was might have been wrong judging by M35s post.
 

spicergear

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...which makes you think that a stud kit may be worth looking into if rod cap failure is a problem. Keep in mind though the more boost, the less strain on the cap on the down stroke. RPM is still a killer though.
 
Here's the scoup on resizing ....if you torque to stock spec there should be no need for resizing.
No, here's the scoop on resizing....

If you have the rods out - resize them ! Or I could say if you have the rods out check them to see if they are round...they won't be. Over time rods get egg shaped and don't hold the bearing properly causing premature failure. The rods are just way too far into the motor to skip such a simple step.
 
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