MEP-002A head removal - broke a glow plug

[ClarkeF]

I had a bad glow plug in the haed and decided to replace it today. I used penetrating oil several times over the past few weeks and today managed to twist the head off while trying to remove it.

I'm assuming my only option at this point is to remove the head and have a machine shop drill out the plug and clean the threads. Anyone else pull the heads? Is it hard? Any tricks or suggestions?

I'm assuming I'll need replacement head gasket and parts. Is there a supplier for these parts?

I believe the engine is an Onan DJB? is that correct?

Thanks Clarke

 

[deuceaid]

3 things, try one of those vibrating engravers, I have been able to gring a little pad off center and the high frequency vibs will sometimes back even a rusted bolt out.

then if not that a reverse twist drill bit,,,,,,and last of all an easy out,,

ok number 4 would also be to put dry ice on the head of the plug itsself and try to shrink the plug a little (it would help to gently warm the cylinder head some.

 

[ClarkeF]

Thanks for those suggestions. The glow plug itself is still in the head, and just spins around the heating element. I haven't tried to pull the element out and leaving the threaded body to be able to LH drill it. I guess I have nothing to loose by doing so, since worst case is pulling the head...

I'll take another look at it tomorrow.

Cheers,

Clarke

 

[ClarkeF]

[Snip]

then if not that a reverse twist drill bit,,,,,,and last of all an easy out,,

Suggestion 2 and 3 worked! I drilled out (LH bit) the guts of the glow plug and tried an easy out. It just spun, used the next size up, drill and easy0out. It grabbed but flexed too much as I tried to back out the plug. Went to the biggest LH bit and easy out in my kit - and you can see the result!

The end of the plug still sitting outside the head split from the force of the easy out wedging itself into place, but with a 12" wrench on the easy out it backed out.

Thanks

 

[ctfjr]

Good job ClarkF!

I had a bad oil switch on my 003. Rather than just replace it I thought I would pipe in a 1/8 brass tee for some future sensor. In the course of my clumsiness (according to my son) I snapped off the brass fitting going into the engine

An easy out made quick work of removing it. That it was brass helped make it easy. I was only concerned with getting pieces back in the engine but it seemed to come out pretty cleanly.

 

[Keith_J]

These like to corrode. Anti-seize is a must.

 

[deuceaid]

Sure beats taking the head off. Keith_J is right, antisieze just about anything that threads into the block.The electrolysis that starts because of metals being different will cause corrosion eventually, no mater how nice and dry anything is.

 

[ClarkeF]

Got the new glow plugs in today, with copper anti seize. Checked the resistance of the air intake glows - about 4 or 5 ohms each, so I left them alone. Primed the fuel, held the glow for 40 seconds and it fired right up! About 30 out at the time, so the full minute not needed unless it is very cold!

I had already replaced the canister filter setup with some spin on Stanadyne FM100 series, 150 micro pre and 5 micron post filter. (if anyone needs a used canister filter setup, drop me a PM). Next up is converting the canister based oil filter to spin on - looks a little more difficult with some bolt heads in the way of the adapter plate.

Then a load test and pull all the ASK housing back on. Anyone got a good replacement for the ASK insulation? Mineis falling apart.

Thanks!

 

[Keith_J]

If you have the Mitsubishi (geared) starter, a good 002A will start down to the 40s without any pre-glow. These starters spin the engine over a bit faster.

For insulation, rigid fiberglass board should work.