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400hz gen sets able to do 60hz?

kurtkds

Member
629
-1
18
Location
Puyallup, WA

Thanks Gimpy, I had read through several of the posts about converting 400hz to 60hz including those two and those had quite a bit of info on what was needed to convert the generator over using military spec parts.

I really need to keep the 3ph for my shop and I wanted to know if that Civy conversion is single phase only because I want to keep my options open. :grin:


At this point I need to get the unit home and see if it's a boat anchor or if it runs and go from there.

Next would be to figure what exactly is needed to convert it over and where to get said parts. I have to figure out exactly which TMs to get also, I have done some research and got an idea where to start, more to follow.
 

kurtkds

Member
629
-1
18
Location
Puyallup, WA
Update.. I got the mep113a fired up yesterday on the first shot. Engine runs nice and smooth, the down side is that the generator isn't producing voltage. I tried flashing it several times but still got nothing. Being that I plan on swapping out the gen head for a 60 hz unit I'm not too concerned about that.

I talked to Goldneagle about the swap that he did on his 400 hz machine and what was involved in the swap. So at this point I'm going to check out the local scrap yard to see what's available and also get pricing on the civilian unit.

More to come.
 

kurtkds

Member
629
-1
18
Location
Puyallup, WA
Yet another update, I'm into hour #30 of now power, the converted MEP113 is purring along providing all the power i could ever need. It's really rough when you have to leave the top off the hot tub during a winter storm to provide additional load for the genrator. :beer:

A great shout out to Goldneagle for the advice on the conversion.
 
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kurtkds

Member
629
-1
18
Location
Puyallup, WA
Awesome! did you swap the head for a 60 hz? if so details please inquiring minds want to know!
The following information pertains to the MEP113a to MEP004 15KW generators.

Yes I did swap it out, I couldn't find a used head locally so i went with a Marathon model # 361CSL1602 for a SAE 2 bell housing with SAE DDC 15.5 coupling.

Check this site out for more information.

Generator Parts - Generator Ends and Voltage Regulators

I know the price is up there, but I only paid $650 for the Generator with 26 hours on the meter so I think in the long run I'll be money ahead.

I also removed the dog house on the Generator head for clearance so I could keep the unit as stock as possible.

There are some modifications that have to be done for this conversion, remove the existing generator mounts and fabricate new ones that are approximately 7/8" tall and put 1" spacers on the grill below the main control panel. And if you have a ASK housing like I do, then you'll have to trim the grill too.

This is a 12 wire head that I wired in a double delta configuration and according to Marathon will put out 42KW at 120/240 Volt. The load that I was running during the storm averaged 21 KW and I had some peaks of 28KW.

I didn't use anything except for the main contactor when it came to the AC Volt side of the generator, apparently the original voltage regulator was out on the unit when I got it. So I disconnected everything coming into the contactor and for electrical protection I added a 150 amp 3 phase breaker between the generator and the main contactor.

I plan on going through all the electrical after the weather improves and install the correct 60hz gauge and get all the fault lights powered back up.

This generator head also comes with a voltage regulator which I'll probably use full time unless the correct unit falls into my lap. The regulator has adjustment pots built into it but you can add a remote voltage adjustment pot, which I'm going to wire into the original control panel.

The total conversion time was somewhere in the 30 hour range time frame.

I don't have pictures of the project as it was being done but the general description is as follows.

#1 pull the top off of the sound suppression kit which involves and allen wrench to unlock the cam locks along with an allen headed bolt on each end of the top panel. The bolts are hidden under each of the riser boxes that attach to the top panel.

#2 pull the end panel to expose the main control panel and generator head, followed by the air intake grill.

#3 remove the main electrical control panel and the end panel that supported the intake grill along with the manual speed control linkage.

#4 remove the cowling that is over the generator head, make sure to disconnect the fuel line that goes to the filter housing along with all the electrical connections that are connected to the generator head along with what runs the engine.

#5 support the end of the engine so that it doesn't fall when you remove the engine from the head as the is only a front motor mount on these generators, the back of the engine is supported by the generator itself. The TM shows a piece of all thread ran through a frame cross member above the generator with a hook or clevis that attaches to the lifting eye of the engine.

#6 remove the Generator head (I had a forklift for this part)n from the housing.

#7 Cut out the orginal C chanel steel mounts and modify to be reused to reattach the cowling later.

#8 install new Generator head mounts ( I had my local machine shop make these).

At this point it's time to assemble in the reverse order.


I took me about 3 hours to get it down to the point that I was ready to remove the head from engine but I would guess that if you didn't have a sound suppression kit it would take less time.


With all of the AC side disconnected I had to run the unit in "Battle short" for the main contactor to operate correctly and supply power to the house.

I would guess that if a person has a 400hz unit that runs correctly, all they would have to do is replace the head and change out the 400hz specific components such as the under/over HZ fault relay and the HZ gauge.
 

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saddamsnightmare

Well-known member
3,618
80
48
Location
Abilene, Texas
January 23rd, 2012.

Kurtkds:

A thinking man's conversion...! I donated my unit to a Air Base museum figuring it would be in context there, but it was a gasser unit with virtually no hours after rebuild at Toole AD, and if I'd had the time, I would probably have converted it too as the MEP017 uses the same engine, just a 60 cycle generator head...:D
 

kurtkds

Member
629
-1
18
Location
Puyallup, WA
Some more numbers on this conversion.

According to this post,


My guess it that it came out of a 15kw genset. It has the same ports (pipe nipples) on the oil pan that are on my 30kw gensets (with the six banger) that are utilized as part of the optional arctic kit for the things.
I know that the MEP-004a uses the four cylinder White/Hercules diesel engine model D198ER rated at 47.0 HP @ 1800 RPM
By following some HP to KW calculations I found on the Generator supplier's website, a 47 HP engine is capable of generating:

100% load: 116.91 Amps or 28KW.
80% load: 93.53 Amps or 22.4KW

These Numbers follow what The generator was putting out during the last storm.

Below is an explanation of their formula.

One horsepower equals .746 Kilowatts of electricity. Generators are only approximately 80% efficient at converting rotating energy to electricity. Therefore if you multiply .746 X .80 = .597 you'll get the amount of electricity in KW that a one horsepower engine can produce. All industrial generator ends are rated for 60 hertz at 1800 RPM. If your engine for example will produce 25 horsepower at 1800 RPM, then you can realistically expect to be able to produce 14.9 kilowatts, (25 X .597 = 14.925) at full load.

Please note for calculation sake, I've used rated horsepower at full engine load. The generator end can safely continuously produce that amount of electricity, but I would caution would-be generator designers that running an engine continuously at a full load will result in a shortened lifespan (of the engine). I am very comfortable specifying continuous engine loading factors of around 80% for diesel prime movers and 60% for spark fired units. For standby units with varying loads, I see no problem rating at 100% horsepower capacity, as long as the average loading is in the 60-80% range or less depending on the engine type.
 

PsycoBob

Member
212
11
18
Location
Auburn, NY
The easy way is to sell it & buy a 60hz version. The hard way involves a new stator & control system, maybe a rotor as well for some models. If you can find a 60hz from the same series with a bad engine, its doable, but usually cheaper to buy a good 60hz unit & use yours for engine parts & sheetmetal.
 
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