Any Wiring Tips

[bsteinborn]

I have been thinking of replacing the front wiring harness. I recently replaced the fuel gauge and noticed that the wiring behind the console was a bit frayed. I can also reach my hand under the console while the engine is running, wiggle the wiring and watch the gauges bounce around. I've looked around at the various places we can buy M35A2 parts but haven't noticed any wiring harnesses for sale. Is it as simple as buying the male/female connectors and some 14 gage wire? Any tips, help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[rtk]

wiring problems

I would go with a harness made by Vintage Wiring of Maine , they make very good replacement harness's . The wiring is not difficult , you just have to under stand the wire numbers . They did not use color codes per say . If you are up for making your own harness , the wiring diagram is availabe on this site and the connectors are readility available on line . As a FYI , I would fix your wire issues ASAP , as you really don't want either a short and/or fire in your vehicle . I would also wire in a MASTER cut off switch to your batteries so that you can isolate the electrical system if need be , also a great anti -theft device .

 

[BIG_RED]

If you do decide to do some wiring yourself, I would recommend you solder absolutely every connection you can, rather than using crimp splices or wire nuts. Soldered connections are relatively impervious to corrosion, and it is corrosion and loose connections that lead to most electrical problems. Good luck!

 

[clinto]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/70157-alternatives-nos-wire-harnesses.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/10746-e-bay-wiring-harness.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/22431-correct-wiring-harness.html

 

[runk]

Erik's has all the wiring bits, and sometimes the entire harnesses (looks like they are in stock now). I've had to replace a bunch of the end connectors, but most of the wire was ok. The connector ends can be soldered on, or you can buy the special crimp tool. The prestolite wire has a thicker insulation then most commercial wire, so other wire doesn't fit as tightly or seal in the connectors as well. Erik's prices on the wire are pretty decent, I looked around a found a few cheaper sources, but only if you were going to buy 1000 ft rolls !
I've got a rear harness I bought from him, as mine was pretty mangled at the rear and I need a new trailer plug (which costs almost as much as the complete harness !), but I haven't installed it yet. It looks good, just like the old one.
Note also that (some, all ?) the dash gauges are grounded through the panel, so you may need to clean the contact points, or run a jumper to a good ground point.

Military Truck Parts M35A2 M35A3 M37 M813 M151 M923 M54

Better then the TM wiring schematic-
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3843-peter-bogs-cad-deuce-schematic.html
(read the thread all the way through, some errors discussed and corrected.)
And a discussion with more errors and some corrections-
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/military-radios-other-electronics/15778-cad-m35-wiring-diagram.html
And another discussion-
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/32256-wiring-tm-m35a2.html

 

[deuceaid]

special crippers are nice (and costly), but unless you are crimping for a living, I would solder it ..... and even at my former job that had the nice crimpers , I still soldered everything because it is the best and lasts the longest

 

[Beerslayer]

If you do solder, make a secure mechanical connection first. Recommend the Lineman's Splice AKA Western Union Splice.

Here's a couple of links that show how. Prefer the first method with solder.

Splicing Wires - ADVrider

Splicing wires

 

[steelandcanvas]

Erik's has all the wiring bits, and sometimes the entire harnesses (looks like they are in stock now). I've had to replace a bunch of the end connectors, but most of the wire was ok. Note also that (some, all ?) the dash gauges are grounded through the panel, so you may need to clean the contact points, or run a jumper to a good ground point.

Bsteinborn:

Erik's has most, if not all, of the wiring parts you'll need to make Mil-Spec repairs. I have done the same thing Runk has done, replace the tattered wire connectors with new units, and cut out the frayed portion of the wire that enters the connectors.

Sounds as though you may have a bad ground between the gauges and the frame (as Runk suggests). Check to make sure your gauges are tight to the instrument panel, and the panel is making good electical/mechanical connection with the rest of the dash board. This may save you some troubleshooting hassel.

 

[emmado22]

Why not try to find a NOS harness? That would be the easiest!

 

[dabtl]

Messing with deuces for the past few years has taught me to always check the grounds and clean them.

Put a new harness on, clean the grounds. Lights not working? Clean the grounds. Etc.

 

[deuceaid]

Beerslayer ,, Good links, I would also add, if you do use heat shrink, try to find the stuff with a bonding adhesive in it too, that stuff is wonderful, and I would use nothing less especially in a marine environment ( pun intended, but deuces can go underwater a fair bit--- but I hope not the dashboard)

 

[bsteinborn]

Thanks for the tips and links! I did see that Erik's has the complete front and rear harness. I'll probably get them eventually and in the meantime I'll check the grounds. I did notice a bit of smoke coming from the console while driving it this past Sunday. Guess I'll keep the fire extinquisher close.

Any good or bad places to splice into the wiring if I am adding a radio and rear tail light? Or is their a better option?

 

[rednckii]

I got both harness from eriks was an easy install. Hardest part is undoing all the straps holding wire in place very time consuming. As far as plug an play very easy a little wd40 and the connectors slide together nicely. My harness was frayed and brittle now with the new one no worries.

 

[Darwin T]

Dielectric grease on all the connection. you can get a can at most auto parts stores.