PE-197 Tools needed

[macjeeper]

Looking for specific tools to work on my old generator as listed in the TM 11-940.

1. Oil can 1/2 pint - flexible metal spout
2. Flathead Valve Spring Lifter
3. Tappet Wrenches ( 2 each) 3/8"x7/16"
4. Set of Open End Wrenches listed below:
a) 3/8" x 7/16"
b) 1/2" x 9/16"
c) 19/32" x 11/16"
d) 5/8" x 3/4"
e) 25/32" x 7/8"
f) 15/16" x 1"

Other tools listed on picture should help as well:

Thanks, Mac

 

[macjeeper]

Hello all,

The Flathead Valve Spring Lifter is needed now?

Any help to purchase, borrow or use in the SF Bay Area or Sac Delta area would be greatly appreciated to repair my WW2 PE-197 Generator, Hercules ZXB engine.

Thanks, Mac

 

[WillWagner]

Uhhh, Craftsman, Lowes, Home Defect, Snap-on, Harbor Frt? Unless you are looking for these tools for restoration purposes, in that case, please put your request in the classifieds.

 

[macjeeper]

Sorry I was just hoping to find tools here, the PE-197 generator is rarer than the M5's that preceded it.

It's hard to find old parts or tools for this Hercules engine,
Ebay is mostly the only choice.

Thanks, Mac

 

[plym49]

Are you looking for original tools for display purposes?

Or are you truly just working on that flat motor? If the latter, you can make do with any of your conventional hand tools. Even for that valve spring lifter. The valve springs on these motors are not exactly Pro Stock strength. You can easily lift them with a pry bar and block them in place with a piece of wood. There is all kinds of room to work since you can easily get to the side of the motor. Sometimes the valve stem keepers stick; in this case it will be easier if the head is off as you can carefully (so as not to bend the valve) use a soft piece of wood to hammer the valve down while you have the spring blocked up. This will free the keepers. I put a magnet in there so that they never can drop out of sight.

I apologize if I am stating things you already know. Posting details just in case, or for the benefit of others.

 

[macjeeper]

It is really both ideas, I like to know what brand of tools were used during WWII that were supplied and also use them as required.

Currently, I'm posting on SmokStak, G503 and Steel Soldiers to get the most of the collective of ideas to fix, repair and yes get to a running condition.

This PE-197 died because owners really didn't keep them inside or out of the elements, the exhaust pipe was straight up and susceptable by the effects of rain water and rusting of the pipe and clogging the exhaust ports and like mine with the #3 bore filled up with the gunk, because the #3 exhaust valve was open.

The tools were recommended and near impossible to acquire. Thanks for the advice, this is what I need exactly, shared information. Thanks again, Mac

 

[plym49]

It is really both ideas, I like to know what brand of tools were used during WWII that were supplied and also use them as required.

Currently, I'm posting on SmokStak, G503 and Steel Soldiers to get the most of the collective of ideas to fix, repair and yes get to a running condition.

This PE-197 died because owners really didn't keep them inside or out of the elements, the exhaust pipe was straight up and susceptable by the effects of rain water and rusting of the pipe and clogging the exhaust ports and like mine with the #3 bore filled up with the gunk, because the #3 exhaust valve was open.

The tools were recommended and near impossible to acquire. Thanks for the advice, this is what I need exactly, shared information. Thanks again, Mac

That clarification helps. I remain puzzled by the statement 'near impossible to acquire'. If you mean, for example, the exact oil can that some subcontractor produced for this unit in 1944, I would agree. But that is also the great so what. Any oil can will work. And if you search 'antique oil cans' on eBay you will find some that look pretty much like the one in the picture for less than $10.

I have wrenched flat motors for a good 40 years and I say again, there is not one special tool that is needed. Just regular tools anyone should have, a bit of resourcefulness and some creativity.

If you pull the head off and hit the #3 exhaust valve stem with a good penetrating oil and rotate the engine so that that cam lobe is down, you will be able to gently tap that valve closed. Repeat a few times. Lube the cylinders and you can even spin the motor over with the starter. That valve will free up and it will operate trouble-free afterwards.

Do an in-situ valve job by smearing some grinding compound on the seat of each valve and let the valve close. Rotate the valve back and forth 90 degrees. In the day there was a suction cup tool that looked like an eggbeater. Nowadays you can spin the valve with a screwdriver (if the face has a slot, some do) or a suction cup or even your own fingers (as the valve spring pressure is low). Clean with brake cleaner afterwards. Don;t leave any abrasive paste in the intake passage.

If the head is stubborn to remove after you undo the head bolts, use wooden wedges - the kind the hardware store sells for shimming door frames - staying clear of the valves.

If the studs holding the manifolds on to the block are rusty or broken, heat the stud a dull red and then touch candle wax to the threads. It will spin right out.

There are plenty of tricks and 1000 ways to skin a cat. Don't let concerns about having that exact setup deter you. Just dive in; you will be fine.

 

[plym49]

Looking again at the tools shown in the photo above, let's dissect them:

The ball pein hammer is any old ball pein hammer.

Screwdrivers are screwdrivers.

Pliers are pliers.

Crescent wrench is a crescent wrench.

Valve spring lifter - I have had one for 40 years and I have never used it. wait, i have a couple of times, and I got impatient because they tend to slip off and then I swear to never fool with it again. Just use a pry bar and a piece of wood.

Tappet wrenches are just thin open end wrenches. a regular wrench might fit. If not, get a cheapy open end from HF or anywhere and grind the end down.

Open end wrenches are open end wrenches.

The engine crank you won't have. Nor will you need it, there are plenty of ways to spin a motor by hand to line up timing marks.

A wrench bag. You will agree that any generic tool bag wis the equivalent.

Odds and ends - soft wire, cotter pins, oil can, etc. -- parts is parts.

That's a regular old feeler gauge - any will do.

The valve grinding stuff - equivalents are still available and employ the workarounds I described in my prior post.

I think that about covers it.