LDS-465-1A Rebuild

[Clay James]

So I'm taking a engine reconditioning class in college and had to find a motor to rebuild. Of course the MV addict in me thought of a deuce engine. I looked in the classifieds and found an LDS simp5782 had listed and bought it. I've been wanting to re-power my M109A3 with an LDS so this will work out great. This will be my first engine rebuild ever, so this will be interesting. I get to do it in a shop that has all the tools and equipment I would ever need I also get the added benefit of knowing it's done right and not just taking a chance on a takeout or crated engine. I'm taking this truck to very remote places so I gotta trust my engine.

Got it delivered today and started pulling it apart so I could take the heads in first. Found a few problems. The number 3 piston is totally burned up from a leaking injector. The other two pistons look fine. The front head is cracked between all the valve seats too but the TM says it's fine unless it shows signs of coolant leakage. Will pull the second head this week.

Since I like to document my deuce work here we go

Edit 2/8/12
Pulled the second head off today.
Pic#8 is the head for the #5 piston
Pic#9 is of the crack that is between all the valve seats on both heads.
Pic#10 is of the second head.

 

[Clay James]

Pic#1 is the #5 piston that got really burned up.
Pic#3 is the #3 cylinder mentioned before. It turned out the sleeve isn't cracked, that was just some dirt that got on there.

3/7 update. Got the valves clean and thermal cleaned/ shot abraded the heads. A few of the valves are outside of the wear limit and some have almost no wear at all. On one of the heads one of the valve seats is loose so it has to be replaced. Also got my new pistons/ sleeve kits in the mail.

 

[Clay James]

3-19 update. Pressure tested the heads today and there was no leaking at those cracks. Also ground the valves. Some were really pitted so they will be replaced, but I ground them anyways.

 

[Clay James]

Reserved..

 

[Clay James]

Reserved...

 

[greg2560]

good way to learn!!!just plan on putting some money in it.... I did my fist rebuild on 400 ford in high school put like $1500 in the motor back in 1997 parts and machine work.. Last month just went in on the topend and put about 600 in it. So parts are not getting any cheaper.. A good way to learn getting your hands dirty

 

[DieselBob]

Great project. Looks like someone in the rebuild shop dropped in the wrong piston/liner assembly in the number 3 hole. One nice thing is there are plenty of parts available for these, although sometimes a little pricey.

Good luck and remember we are all counting on you

 

[NDT]

Good luck. You will find the internal parts somewhat hard to find and very expensive. I have a good used piston if you need it. It is from a LD, but I think they are the same, need to check the 34-P.

 

[Mike929]

I thought the LDS had an extra ring?

 

[Clay James]

Yup, extra ring and it's lighter too.

 

[topo]

I looked at using Ld pistons in my LDS and found the LD piston has ports on the bottom of the piston that lead to the oil ring and the LDS piston has two ports that lead to the oil ring and two larger ports that lead to a cavity in the top of the piston .

 

[Flyingvan911]

Good idea rebuilding the engine at school. You'll love the LDS. That 60 or so extra HP really helps. This might be a good time to tap the turbo if you want to install a pyrometer.

 

[73m819]

Looks like something GOT into #3, DROVE the liner down, beat the piston edge up, liner looks cracked about a inch to the right of the hit, bet getting that liner OUT will be fun, if you found nothing in #3, check the exhaust valve and seat real good, as well as look for cracks at the same spot in the head and maybe even the block at the HIT area.

cracks in heads WILL grow over time, it is BEST to repair or replace, because you WILL in the end anyway. I'm guessing that the crack you mentioned was caused by what ever got into #3, also look at the UNDERSIDE of the head for DAMAGE, may be more then SURFACING will fix

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I think that would be a fun class to take, good luck and thanks for the pics.

 

[gringeltaube]

Looks like something GOT into #3, DROVE the liner down, beat the piston edge up, liner looks cracked about a inch to the right of the hit, bet getting that liner OUT will be fun............................

Ron, I'm also trying to learn from this class and the MF experts onboard.
And to the OP: very good thread!

Not sure and confused now after looking at the pics again.
Questions: can a MF liner simply be "driven" down without it or the block bursting into pieces? .... how would one notice that liner #3 sitting further down, just from the pictures attached? ..... couldn't this be the older style gasket with the separate fire rings? And them still in place.... ???


G.

 

[SCSG-G4]

GT, I think you are correct, we are looking at the gasket. I have one of the LDS-1A piston kits and the liner does have a lip at the top. Very hard to drive down without doing terrible damage to the block.

 

[73m819]

Look right at the hit, then the crack and another crack at 3 o-clock, think though may be wrong that the liner is tweeked by the solid hit, because at 6 o-clock the liner is flush with the block inside the gasket, at 12 0-clock at the hit, it looks like edge of block then gasket, plus the soot trail at the hit, the fire ring should seal right on the lip edge of the liner, other wise the liner could move ( I think)

 

[Heavysteven]

Wish I had to the time to take a class like that. My wife would kill me though I have a tendency to go over board when it comes to repairs. One fuel line goes bad and I replace them all. Coolant leak pull the radiator and replace all the hoses. Belts slips replace all of them.

Anyway, if it was me I would replace the head and all the pistons. That's just how I am wired and you have the tools there.

 

[gringeltaube]

Look right at the hit, then the crack and another crack at 3 o-clock, think though may be wrong that the liner is tweeked buy the solid hit, because at 6 o-clock the liner is flush with the block inside the gasket, at 12 0-clock at the hit, it looks like edge of block then gasket, plus the soot trail at the hit, the fire ring should seal right on the lip edge of the liner, other wise the liner could move ( I think)

You may be right; I see that crack at 3.00... now IS that the liner?

All I have here to compare with are 427 blocks, with the liners (rusted) in place, protruding approx. 1.5mm from the deck surface, with the copper ring (same thickness) still around it. (= old gasket style)

G.

 

[skidder]

Good For you CJ, THIS is the way to start out with a ( MV) PAY ATTION an LISTEN ask Questions an most of ALL TAKE PITCURES for us on SS , an we will also learn