harleyhouse
Well-known member
- 1,256
- 30
- 48
- Location
- Oakmont, Pennsylvania
Clutzer: will it be color matched to the H1?
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Chronicle of a tan M1101 trailer purchase from GovLiquidation.com
- Thread starter clutzer
- Start date
clutzer
Member
- 46
- 0
- 6
- Location
- Cambridge/MA
I would love to do two things to the trailer:
1. Paint it Pewter to match my H1, and
2. Dye or paint the canvas black to match my H1.
But talk about a lot of expense for zero practical benefit ha ha ha.
1. Paint it Pewter to match my H1, and
2. Dye or paint the canvas black to match my H1.
But talk about a lot of expense for zero practical benefit ha ha ha.
Attachments
3dAngus
Well-known member
- 4,719
- 101
- 63
- Location
- Perry, Ga.
I repainted the outside bed only on all 4 sides with Rapco 686 tan replacement.
It only took 4 cans. If you go with an off color, you would have to do the undercarriage though, and that is what would take the time and paint.
Cost of paint was about $30. Time was about 45 minutes. Most of these M1101/1102s are in pretty good shape and rust free.
I tried repainting a canvas on a M105A2 one time and it wasn't that easy. Turns out, the Rapco paint runs quite easily on canvas, where on steel, it sits pretty well without running.
It only took 4 cans. If you go with an off color, you would have to do the undercarriage though, and that is what would take the time and paint.
Cost of paint was about $30. Time was about 45 minutes. Most of these M1101/1102s are in pretty good shape and rust free.
I tried repainting a canvas on a M105A2 one time and it wasn't that easy. Turns out, the Rapco paint runs quite easily on canvas, where on steel, it sits pretty well without running.
harleyhouse
Well-known member
- 1,256
- 30
- 48
- Location
- Oakmont, Pennsylvania
I panted my M101A2 with a Harbor Freight HNLP gun 12.99
I painted it in the back yard and it turned out well.
A matching trailer is cool! paint, wheels and cover.
I painted it in the back yard and it turned out well.
A matching trailer is cool! paint, wheels and cover.
Attachments
clutzer
Member
- 46
- 0
- 6
- Location
- Cambridge/MA
The third picture has the trailer with the Hutchinson 17s. Those rims are worth more than that trailer! 
That guy has too much money!
I definitely agree the matching paint is pretty awesome. "Metallic Pewter" isn't going to be easy to come by cheap I bet... And, I'd probably half to do a "frame off" paint to power coat the undercarriage and chassis black...
That guy has too much money!
I definitely agree the matching paint is pretty awesome. "Metallic Pewter" isn't going to be easy to come by cheap I bet... And, I'd probably half to do a "frame off" paint to power coat the undercarriage and chassis black...
harleyhouse
Well-known member
- 1,256
- 30
- 48
- Location
- Oakmont, Pennsylvania
Just paint the frame. It will look good gloss black and clean easy.
That is what I did on my 101A2.
That is what I did on my 101A2.
Attachments
- 1,513
- 1,698
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
It took a while for my EUC to clear, but I got the word Monday that the trailer was clear to pick up. It would happen that the base (where I work) was having a large scale security drill today and we were warned to telework from home (or Starbucks) and stay well clear. I decided today would be the best day to run down to JBLM so I took the day off.
It's huge! I hooked it up and pulled it forward a few feet to make sure the wheels were all turning, there were no locked brakes or scary sounds, and then retracted the landing leg and headed out. I brought it back at 60MPH for most of the way, although I did hit 70 at one point. I still haven't decided whether I'm going to keep it or sell it, but I have to admit I really like it. It tows nice and smooth and looks great. The Hemi has NO problem accelerating up the on-ramp with it. I may swap out the Hummer wheels for something smaller, but don't know how much money I want to pour into this.
The first three pictures are in the DRMO yard at JBLM.
Thanks to Obamanomics, the mall parking lot is mostly empty anymore, so I stopped to take a few pictures.
There are a couple close-ups that show how the temporary lights are attached (the magnets on the lights don't stick to aluminum) and the pintle hook. The safety chains are too short.
Once I got it home I swapped the pintle to the front and guided it up close to the garage. Not much room for error so I disconnected and pushed it in by hand. With the wheel on the landing leg it was very easy to move it by myself.
It's huge! I hooked it up and pulled it forward a few feet to make sure the wheels were all turning, there were no locked brakes or scary sounds, and then retracted the landing leg and headed out. I brought it back at 60MPH for most of the way, although I did hit 70 at one point. I still haven't decided whether I'm going to keep it or sell it, but I have to admit I really like it. It tows nice and smooth and looks great. The Hemi has NO problem accelerating up the on-ramp with it. I may swap out the Hummer wheels for something smaller, but don't know how much money I want to pour into this.
The first three pictures are in the DRMO yard at JBLM.
Thanks to Obamanomics, the mall parking lot is mostly empty anymore, so I stopped to take a few pictures.
There are a couple close-ups that show how the temporary lights are attached (the magnets on the lights don't stick to aluminum) and the pintle hook. The safety chains are too short.
Once I got it home I swapped the pintle to the front and guided it up close to the garage. Not much room for error so I disconnected and pushed it in by hand. With the wheel on the landing leg it was very easy to move it by myself.
Attachments
- 1,513
- 1,698
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
Last edited:
twa@ezdn.net
New member
- 259
- 19
- 0
- Location
- Chesapeake, VA
That trailer fits perfect!
- 1,513
- 1,698
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
I wish this forum would allow me to pictures up, but I took a few more of the trailer that will be tiny. The tail lights are traditional filament bulbs with LEDs for the black-out portion (?). The side markers are LED.
The only damage to mine is two minor scuffs and one of the parking brake levers is a bit bent, but still functional. The 5th picture shows the VIN stamped on the tongue. It looks like it was turned in by the 1186th MP Company.
The only damage to mine is two minor scuffs and one of the parking brake levers is a bit bent, but still functional. The 5th picture shows the VIN stamped on the tongue. It looks like it was turned in by the 1186th MP Company.
Attachments
Last edited:
clutzer
Member
- 46
- 0
- 6
- Location
- Cambridge/MA
Thanks for the info for the bulbs. I'm now going to try to track down some 12V bulbs and do a field swap out when I get there.
- 1,513
- 1,698
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
I found the safety chains to be a bit too short, probably because of the huge riser plate I need to run. That shouldn't be a problem for you though. I was pretty nervous that it wouldn't be turn-key and I'd have to rent a flat bed truck to get it home- but it was ready for the road; I expect yours to be the same.
I would suggest you bring some grease as the parking brake mechanism was dry on mine.
As a side note- after looking briefly this morning it appears that 8 lug to 5 lug wheels adapters are not easy to find, and stupidly overpriced when you do ($180 each).
I would suggest you bring some grease as the parking brake mechanism was dry on mine.
As a side note- after looking briefly this morning it appears that 8 lug to 5 lug wheels adapters are not easy to find, and stupidly overpriced when you do ($180 each).
- 1,513
- 1,698
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
I came home after work and got to work on getting the old wire harness off (only to the first junction point). It only took me about an hour. The most difficult thing was getting the connectors apart. Then I had to drill out the rivets holding the clamps. The last clamp is attached under a structural rivet so I wasn't going to fool with that. Instead I used the dremel with a cutting disk to cut the clamp off.
I got the harness off intact. Does it have any value?
I got the harness off intact. Does it have any value?
Attachments
Mainsail,
I just took the hose clamp off, pushed the heavy black boot back, labeled and cut the wire I needed long, the ones not needed short, slid old boot off. The new boot was a bit tight but some silicone spray and it slid right on, wired the 7 way plug on, and pulled the new boot up to it and it was good to go. Finding the bulbs is turning out to be a pain, may end up ordering them online- .50-$1.00 bulb will cost $7 to ship
I just took the hose clamp off, pushed the heavy black boot back, labeled and cut the wire I needed long, the ones not needed short, slid old boot off. The new boot was a bit tight but some silicone spray and it slid right on, wired the 7 way plug on, and pulled the new boot up to it and it was good to go. Finding the bulbs is turning out to be a pain, may end up ordering them online- .50-$1.00 bulb will cost $7 to ship
- 1,513
- 1,698
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
I am going a different route for a couple of reasons. The most minor was that I wanted to keep the original harness intact. Second, the 12 wire cable is huge and heavy, and I don't really want to use it. I worry it might pull itself out of the 7-pin socket on my jeep by its own weight. I ordered some shell connectors from Eric's, so it should be plug-and-play.Mainsail,
I just took the hose clamp off, pushed the heavy black boot back, labeled and cut the wire I needed long, the ones not needed short, slid old boot off. The new boot was a bit tight but some silicone spray and it slid right on, wired the 7 way plug on, and pulled the new boot up to it and it was good to go. Finding the bulbs is turning out to be a pain, may end up ordering them online- .50-$1.00 bulb will cost $7 to ship
The bulbs are another issue. Mopar posted a picture on page 7 of the 24V lights with 12V power and it didn't look too bad. I wonder if anyone makes some LED replacement bulbs that would fit.
Last edited:
I saw a post on one of the threads for LED replacement bulbs for it but the cost was like $17 per bulb x 4= ouch!
On my Ford F250 the 7-way plug in has a cap that covers the outlet when not in use, when in use it locks the trailer plug in so the weight will not pull it out. But I can understand wanting to keep the plug intact- down the road you may sell to someone who wants to restore it to .mil specs. They will thank you and curse me LOL
On my Ford F250 the 7-way plug in has a cap that covers the outlet when not in use, when in use it locks the trailer plug in so the weight will not pull it out. But I can understand wanting to keep the plug intact- down the road you may sell to someone who wants to restore it to .mil specs. They will thank you and curse me LOL
- 1,513
- 1,698
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
Thanks to Eric’s super fast shipping, I received my rubber shell connectors so it was off to Home Depot for the rest of the stuff I needed. I picked up four colors of 16g wire, a 7 blade connector, and some wire loom.
All the connectors are crimped and soldered, the wires are tucked safely in the plastic wire loom, and clamped in the original locations. I still need to take three of the extra shell connectors to make caps to cover the black-out light connectors, just to protect them.
The moment of truth finally arrived and I backed the jeep up and plugged it in. Success! Everything works as it’s supposed to.
The LED running lights are bright even with 12V, the tails not so much. They’re good enough, and probably legal as is, but I would like to swap the 24V filament bulbs for 12V.
All the connectors are crimped and soldered, the wires are tucked safely in the plastic wire loom, and clamped in the original locations. I still need to take three of the extra shell connectors to make caps to cover the black-out light connectors, just to protect them.
The moment of truth finally arrived and I backed the jeep up and plugged it in. Success! Everything works as it’s supposed to.
The LED running lights are bright even with 12V, the tails not so much. They’re good enough, and probably legal as is, but I would like to swap the 24V filament bulbs for 12V.
therealsundance
Member
- 412
- 17
- 18
- Location
- Lutherville, MD
The 24v bulbs have 2 filaments to the 12v one filament. That is why it is so dim, 1/2 the voltage through twice the filaments.
- 1,513
- 1,698
- 113
- Location
- Puget Sound, WA
I went to Napa today and got 12V bulbs, installed, and everything works as it should.The 24v bulbs have 2 filaments to the 12v one filament. That is why it is so dim, 1/2 the voltage through twice the filaments.
Small bulb 623 = 631 (12V) @ $5.49
Large bulb 1683 = 1156 (12V) @ $3.99
I also used the shop vac to suck all the dirt and debris out of the drain holes and the tie-down pockets. It looks a lot better now.
Now to find two chevy 8-lug wheels cheap....
Last edited:
clutzer
Member
- 46
- 0
- 6
- Location
- Cambridge/MA
Are you looking to change rim/tire size to match your jeep? Sorry, if I'm missing something, I just tuned into this thread after a bit.
You can get loads of surplus 8 bolt HMMWV rims that are designed for the trailer... HMMWV wheel offets are somewhat unique so take note of the offset differences for any new wheels you decide on =)