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M1101/2 bow/tarp installation: DO NOT fasten top panels with supplied screws

clutzer

Member
46
0
6
Location
Cambridge/MA
Hello everyone,

I'd like to pass along some wisdom so that people will not blindly follow instructions during the bow and tarp installation and wind up with a top that's not practically removable. And moreover, not go through the **** I did trying to get the self-tapping screws installed, and then subsequently removed. Let's just say a dremel, and a hammer and prying actions were required.

I know that for my M1101, I want to be able to put on and take off the top, and have that be something I can do myself.

Here's the issue with the install procedure: the top stabilizing panels essentially get permanently fasted to the bows. If you try to remove the bows to use your trailer in an open-fashion, you'd need to elevate all four bows simultaneously (think four friends) and lower the bows onto the ground in the perfect orientation as to not damage the top stabilizing panels. IMPOSSIBLE.

So, my modification is to drill the 5/32 hole all the way through, and use a 1.5", 8-32 bolt with nylon washers and a wingnut for easy installation and removal. From top to bottom:

- Bolt head
- Nylon washer
- Top stabilizing panel
- 3/4" bow
- Nylon washer
- Wingnut

Here are pictures.
 

Attachments

nanlin

Member
40
-6
6
Location
Sacramento, CA
Hey clutzer,
I planned to take off the tarp/bow when I pick up the M1102 next week at GL, to reduce wind resistance. Do you think I will have a lot of problems? Do you think I need to bring power drill to drill the screws out? If screws don't come out, can I just remove the tarp easily and leave the bow on?
Thanks.
 

clutzer

Member
46
0
6
Location
Cambridge/MA
Hey clutzer,
I planned to take off the tarp/bow when I pick up the M1102 next week at GL, to reduce wind resistance. Do you think I will have a lot of problems? Do you think I need to bring power drill to drill the screws out? If screws don't come out, can I just remove the tarp easily and leave the bow on?
Thanks.
You can take the tarp off no problem at all: you unclip the external fasteners that go completely around the trailer where the tarp meets the side walls, and then some little twisty thingies inside in the top front and rear seams.

I would just leave the bows in place because the wind resistance from those will be minimal--and then that way you don't have to try to take those nuclear powered screws out :) Note: I had to dremel the head off one of those screws whose shaft is still stuck in the bow: those things are unbelievably strong.

I've updated my "Chronicle" thread with some helpful tips and quick tests to perform when you go to pick up your trailer:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/traile...1101-trailer-purchase-govliquidation-com.html

Of upmost importance is to verify operation of the brakes. I dragged my trailer about 500-600 miles with the brake pad every so slightly dragging which resulted in a burning smell and super-hot wheel hubs. It's an easy thing to check: after you've towed the trailer for a mile or two, get out and put your hands on the wheel and hub in the center. If it's burning hot, then you have an issue. If it's ambient temperature plus about 20F, then you're good to go!

Have fun picking up your trailer! I'm just loving mine. It's been through both Canadian and U.S. customs without registration or a plate ha ha! Fortune is favoring the foolish.
 

biz

New member
43
0
0
Location
Rhode Island
DO NOT DRIVE WITH JUST THE BOWS UP WITHOUT THE COVER!!!!!

I just towed a mint M1102 home lie that and hit a huge pothole and lost the rear 2 rain panels. I went back for them but someone picked them up.
 
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