Clutch slipping, can it be adjusted?

[crazywelder72]

I will.... now i need to find that thread. If you can find it first would you slam a link in here for future use?

 

[Speddmon]

It's possible that your clutch plate is just bad. I'm gonna find the link to my clutch replacement thread in a minute, I't's not a "Step by Step" but it's not bad. When I did mine the clutch was just about shot. There isn't much material on them to begin with.

I don't know if it's true or not, but I was also told my several members at that time the "proper" way to handle and get life from these truck clutches was NOT to "feather" them like you do with a car. Release the pedal completely before you get on the fuel pedal. And don't sit there at an intersedtion and use the clucth to hold yourself from drifting backwards...stuff like that.

As far as the location for the fording plug....my tranmission/bellhousing does NOT have the storage threaded hole casting for the fording plug either

 

[Speddmon]

Here it is...Pulled the transmission today!!!

 

[patracy]

If the plug was out and if there wasn't any oil in there, I doubt it's oil soaked. (Mine on the other hand was SOAKED from a quart or so of oil being trapped in the bellhousing. ) It's either an adjustment issue or just worn if the oil level is fine in the transmission.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Here is my thread on it. In the pics, you will see how much of a mess the trans leaking will make!

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/35419-rear-main-seal.html

 

[F18hornetM]

When we got our Duece last year it had zero free play in the clutch pedal travel. As soon as we got home that was the first adjustment we made. So far no issues with slipping, but if left that way I'm sure it would have.
Those big tires look cool, but also add wear and tear on clutch disc as well as compared to the 900x20s it came with.

 

[crazywelder72]

I know they must add a tremendous amount of extra wear but ohh well... It's the closest think you can drive on the road to driving a full blown monster truck.

i have a few quick questions about the adjustment. I just took a quick peek under there after reading thru the TM about it. I am just trying to filter out how much I have to disconnect if any to check it. The TM is a bit over kill in this, they are telling you to check the free-play when the whole linkage is in process of service.
So yes... I am looking for the shortest, most direct route to check it.

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

If i remember correctly, I measured up two inches from the floor board and made a mark on the clutch pedal shaft.
That is how much free travel you should have in the pedal.....

 

[crazywelder72]

That is a clever way... I will check it out.

 

[Speddmon]

You're overthinking it. With the clutch pedal lightly depressed only until resistance is felt (you should be able to pull the linkage from under the truck by hand to that point). Measure from the face of the bellhousing bolt flange (Item 17) to the center of the hole in the linkage (Item 15). The measurement should be about 3.25"

 

[crazywelder72]

i get all that... I just wasn't sure if i could get a good feel of the free play with the other linkages on.

 

[crazywelder72]

Ok so i went back out there and I tried to move the lever to check for freeplay. I FOUND SOME INTERESTING THINGS...
I couldn't move it by hand from under the truck.

The only way I could actuate the linkage to measure anything I had to reach outside the frame rail and grab the lever just under the floorboard and pull down HARD. I don't think this is normal after all i have read.

since there was no freeplay i took some measurements at rest and fully engaged.

rest = 3.5"
eengaged = 2.5"

What the **** does all this mean?

 

[plym49]

If you have no free play i the linkage, the clutch can slip. If the reason for no free play is that you are at the end of the adjustment, then it is time for a new clutch. If there is still adjustment, then adjust it and you should be good to go.

Note: 'free play' means the distance from when you start to move the clutch until the time that the clutch actually starts to disengage. You can think of it as the slop. Only the linkage is moving while all of the slack is taken up. Then, the clutch lever actually starts to release the clutch disc. The reason for free play is to ensure that the clutch is fully engaged. If you adjust for too much free play, then the clutch might drag during shifts as the disk is not releasing enough.

 

[crazywelder72]

there was absolutely NO free play. Tomorrow I will remove the rod with clevis that attaches to "hole 16" and try to adjust it to have some free play as described.

I have no way of knowing if it was readjusted due to wear or not till i have a baseline with free play to try driving it from. If i adjust it and the truck doesnt move or it still slips then i know it was adjusted because it was worn.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If it is adjusted so there is pressure on the clutch(you said you couldn't move it) that would be like riding the clutch peddle, allowing it to slip and wear. I hope you can adjust it and everything will be fine, but I doubt it.

Good luck.

 

[crazywelder72]

yeah, me too.... and i don't have the $3-400 for parts. I guess I'm screwed

 

[Speddmon]

The parts aren't that expensive....at least I hope not. I think my clutch disk was less than $130. If the flywheel and pressure plate surfaces are smooth and true, just replace the disk. And Check the throwout bearing good while you have it apart If you have to go that far.

Good luck.

 

[crazywelder72]

I thought i read in a different post that a clutch kit was in the 3-4 hundred range. That's excellent news .

I was just about to ask you (from your thread) that you found some common part numbers??? and what were they?

If the flywheel and pressure plate arnt smooth, how much does that cost to get done? I dont think I could get away with doing it on my Bridgeport and rotary table.

I plan on doing the bearing and probably the rear main seal while i am in there but i dont know how much deeper I should go.

responsibly and minimally is where i need to be at this point. I think it would be foolish to not do the rear main.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If it ain't broke...

 

[crazywelder72]

If it ain't broke...

I guess your right. Besides, there's no work like rework