Sudden Fast Oil Leak

[zeisshensoldt]

Let's begin this by saying I've been driving the truck nearly most the day in 90 degree 100% humidity weather, if that matters. I would guesstimate a total of 60 miles. A lot of brake usage, stop lights, etc. 4 engine shut off's and 3 starts in total for today. Everytime I made a stop I would check for leaks under the truck. I noticed a leak at the primary fuel filter so I tightened that up, but then noticed another leak on the other side. It appeared to be the fuel injector pump, but I'm not absolutely sure. The final leak occurred when I was idling my truck for it's final shutdown. After the 10 minute idle I cut the engine and disabled all the electronics. I did my usual walk around and noticed a quickly developed oil puddle underneath. I inspected, but couldn't determine if it was seeping from in between the crank case and transmission or running down from the oil pan. I let the truck sit for an hour and then rechecked the suspected oil leakage spot and it appeared to have ceased dripping for the time being, but it looked like part of seal or rubber-ish material was hanging down between the crank and trans(picture below)? I have taken pictures and circled where it's dripping from. I also uploaded a video, which I will post on here as well.

Deuce leaks - YouTube

 

[zeisshensoldt]

more

 

[big1096]

The leak next to the IP could be from the head, or the compressor. My compressor bolts were not very tight when I got my truck and it came out through the same area. With the tranny drip, I get one just like it and I think it's coming from the back of the oil pan. It never really seems to drip though. Of course, with oil leaks on these trucks, any of the above may be totally different on yours.

The front axle boot looks like you may be in for a seal and boot change...

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

I crawled under my deuce 2 days ago to see how tight the bolts are on the tie rod clamps and noticed I need a new pair of axle boots too. If the angle of the tie rod clamps weren't a few degrees different, I'd swear you climbed under my truck and took that last picture right down to the condition of the paint on the diff housing and tie rod and the position of the tear/leak on the boot! I know this shouldn't surprise me too much but it's just a little eerie to see that pic after seeing the identical view under my truck.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

So would the oil pan gasket need to be replaced?

 

[toddm]

My compressor base gasket was leaking real bad and I thought of the oil pan gasket too. But I always start from the top down when looking for leaks. With my heater assembly in place it was really hard to see. Needless to say I removed it from the truck now.

 

[F18hornetM]

First thing I would do is wash it all off. Use spray nine or some degreaser. Looking at the pictures its really hard to tell where its coming from. So i think I would wash all down, let dry and start over. Next time you drive it keep checking and hopefully you will find where the leak starts from. Once everything is all oily its real hard to tell its source.
On the leak around the bell housing, once cleaned all up and leak appears at lower hole in bell housing, could be rear main seal, or transmission leak, or if oil leak is outside of bell housing, but not coming from hole, could be oil pan.
Of course just some thoughts and ideas. I have a few seeps as well, but nothing that really drips. So i just wash off every now and then and keep looking. If its leaking enough to make a puddle, should be able to find the cause.

 

[panshark]

F18HM has some good advice. If you've got access to a pressure washer, that's a plus, one that kicks out hot water even better. Just remember to respect the pressure, pressure washers have low volume/high pressures, so if you get it about 2 inches away from the part you're spraying you're going to strip paint off. Keep a reasonable distance between the nozzle and the area to be cleaned; for your needs you don't need it to be spotless.

If you re-start the truck and bring it up to operating temperature, and then shut it down, do you get another small puddle of oil? I think if you can isolate your problem to just a shut-down leak, then you can hunt down what may have a high amount of pressure when the oil pump stops pumping, and the whole system is brought to a standstill.

Speaking of which, does anyone know how to say "more turbo" in spanish? I know there are many duece owners who would like to have more turbo...

Z, do you think that the oil pan gasket would be under a bunch of pressure at shut-down, enough that oil may drip freely out of it? I could be dead wrong, but I don't think that is your problem. Are you still experiencing problems related to 1st gear clutch/takeoff?

 

[Woodsplinter]

Mas turbo, señor

 

[zeisshensoldt]

F18HM has some good advice. If you've got access to a pressure washer, that's a plus, one that kicks out hot water even better. Just remember to respect the pressure, pressure washers have low volume/high pressures, so if you get it about 2 inches away from the part you're spraying you're going to strip paint off. Keep a reasonable distance between the nozzle and the area to be cleaned; for your needs you don't need it to be spotless.

If you re-start the truck and bring it up to operating temperature, and then shut it down, do you get another small puddle of oil? I think if you can isolate your problem to just a shut-down leak, then you can hunt down what may have a high amount of pressure when the oil pump stops pumping, and the whole system is brought to a standstill.

Speaking of which, does anyone know how to say "more turbo" in spanish? I know there are many duece owners who would like to have more turbo...

Z, do you think that the oil pan gasket would be under a bunch of pressure at shut-down, enough that oil may drip freely out of it? I could be dead wrong, but I don't think that is your problem. Are you still experiencing problems related to 1st gear clutch/takeoff?

To answer your clutch question: I've learned to become extremely slow on the clutch in 1st gear while adding throttle and it's worked out just fine and I'm really starting get the feel of the clutch shifting to higher and lower gears. Now to answer the rest of what you said. I'll be checking and cleaning all of it tomorrow hoping to locate the leak. What i did notice is the gasket around the base of the compressor is completely melted out the sides and leaking oil without the truck even running. After further inspection, it almost looks like someone used orange caulking around the compressor base. I don't know if the compressor is what's causing the oil leak around the bell housing, but I'm going to buy a replacement gasket and see if it changes anything. Also, I think the clutch needs some adjusting. The pedal only seems to have about half inch of free play. I tried looking at the TM's for help and then inspecting under the truck, but couldn't really understand it.

 

[panshark]

orange caulking--might be permatex, which is a gasket sealer, sometimes used by itself as a gasket by many fine, few-toothed mechanics around where I grew up. Of course, if it's leaking oil like a sieve, it's probably not such a good fix. I think you have to let it cure a bit before bolting it down. That being said, permatex can be your friend--I've got a couple of tubes either lying around my garage, or several states over.

Clutch--what do you define as free play? Do you have that 1/2 inch at the top of the pedal, or the bottom of the pedal? How long would you estimate that your "clutch point" is? (The distance where the clutch is partially disengaged, and is causing the truck to have forward motion.)

Woodsplitter--That's funny stuff.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

Well, pushing the pedal down by hand until it stopped was about 1/2, so top of the pedal. From the floor to the disengage point is quite lengthy, can't really guess that one. Would need to measure it tomorrow.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

I cleaned all the oil up yesterday with spray nine and then drove the truck around a bit until operating temp was reached. I then parked it, shut it down and started looking for oil drips. I saw no oil running from anywhere, so I don't know what could've been leaking. What i did notice was fuel seeping from the ip head. Is this is a simple fix or does it need a mechanic?

 

[toddm]

My friend kennys@wi.rr.com had a great post on working on the HH on your IP. He just recently helped me out a lot diagnosing and fixing my same exact leak. I would post the link but I can't do it right now, just look for the thread under his name. My truck was just leaking fuel not oil at that time. There are two large o-rings that were bad and we had to replace.

 

[toddm]

I think I did it for you.
Check my next post.

 

[toddm]

I think I did it for you. Finallly.

www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/69241-removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-hydraulic-head.html

 

[panshark]

hey, what's your oil level looking like?

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

In post #10 is that is any kind of sealer between the air compressor and the mount remove that compressor now and get rid of that sealer. NEVER EVER for any reason use sealer of any kind under your air compressor. There is one small hole for the oil to trave to the compressor and by using sealer 99 out of 100 time that hole gets filled in and at best you greatly reduce the oil flow to it at worst your compressor will soon die a painful death. The correct gasket is about $6 and is all that is needed. I have replaced more than one compressor because some one used RTV along with the gasket. And I sent you a PM with my number to call me so I can walk you through replacing your o rings under the HH.

 

[zeisshensoldt]

After running the truck I checked the oil and it ends after the 2nd "L" on "FULL". Out of curiosity is the oil gauge showing normal pressure?

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

A little lower than minebut nothing to be concerned about. I bet as soon as you start driving it goes up a bit.