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M109A3 RV Conversion

BAZYRKYR

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Maryland
Hey there Clay. I just picked up my 1967 Kaiser M109A3 about a month ago and I plan on doing my conversion similar to this but I figure if I'm gonna sink the money into it I am going to do it 100% right so I am about to do exactly what you did but was wondering.....when you pulled the wood up and removed the rusted metal floor pan in the shop body what did you replace it with? Your pics go from no floor to new wood floor. Did you re-weld new metal floor pans or did you just use thick wood planks and seal it? Any insight in to this project and the probable issues I will run into would be greatly appreciated. BTW....any up date on your project...how is it coming along?
 

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lawdog1623

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well im excited, i may have finally found my 109 in missouri. Im waiting on pics of it to come today. Hopefully ill be able to get it soon. When i do this is the way im going. [thumbzup]
 

Bad_Carp

Active member
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I love these M109 build threads, can't get enough ideas for when I re-do mine. The wheels are turning in my head, and that is never a good thing! :)
 

Clay James

Member
524
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Location
Reno/NV
Hey there Clay. I just picked up my 1967 Kaiser M109A3 about a month ago and I plan on doing my conversion similar to this but I figure if I'm gonna sink the money into it I am going to do it 100% right so I am about to do exactly what you did but was wondering.....when you pulled the wood up and removed the rusted metal floor pan in the shop body what did you replace it with? Your pics go from no floor to new wood floor. Did you re-weld new metal floor pans or did you just use thick wood planks and seal it? Any insight in to this project and the probable issues I will run into would be greatly appreciated. BTW....any up date on your project...how is it coming along?

I saw that on youtube. Looks good except for those rust issues.

I got the thickest plywood I could, I think 1" or a little more, and just put it right on the crossmembers. It was a little difficult because the box isn't perfectly square, so it was a custom fit. I havent sealed the bottom yet, but I'll get some kind of spray on undercoating.
I have some more pictures, but I haven't done much lately because I've been dealing with school and a new job.

well im excited, i may have finally found my 109 in missouri. Im waiting on pics of it to come today. Hopefully ill be able to get it soon. When i do this is the way im going. [thumbzup]
Post a build thread if you get it.
I love these M109 build threads, can't get enough ideas for when I re-do mine. The wheels are turning in my head, and that is never a good thing! :)
They're what inspired me to get one in the first place.
 

Mike929

Member
820
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Location
DFW, Tx
You may want to use marine or at least an exterior rated plywood if it is going to be exposed to the elements. Even with paint, water will eventually find it's way into the plywood and may cause issues down the road. Just a thought.
 

BAZYRKYR

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Yeah I was thinking about the undercoating too. I guess it just depends on how bad the rust underneath the wood actually is. I might have to bring my Sterling Parts Kit project to a hold and go out right now(10pm :cookoo:) and find out. If it's really bad I'll cut the metal out and then clean up and undercoat the cross-members and everything else. You know...I get an email every time someone comments on a thread I subscribe too but for some reason I never got yours. I'm glad I decided to come to the site and see if I missed any thing. Anyway...I wonder what it would cost to get someone to weld sheet metal in for me. I was thinking I would cut it out...undercoat it underneath...run wire and plumbing while walls and floor are out....install water tanks so I do not have to cut any cross members...and then have the floor welded in and all wire and plumbing holes sealed. At that point I would under coat it with a thick spray liner from under neath and from the inside on the new floor and the walls. Then dynamat(from to to bottom) and add rigid foam insulation on the walls and ceiling. The only other thing is this...before all that I really wanna make this a giant Faraday cage and SCIF the walls...floor...and ceiling. Any advice?...anyone?
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
You may want to use marine or at least an exterior rated plywood if it is going to be exposed to the elements. Even with paint, water will eventually find it's way into the plywood and may cause issues down the road. Just a thought.
Or skip it all together...and get locust or oak planks.
I looked into the pressure treated stuff, but saw that it was harmful to metal so I didn't go that route.
Yeah I was thinking about the undercoating too. I guess it just depends on how bad the rust underneath the wood actually is. I might have to bring my Sterling Parts Kit project to a hold and go out right now(10pm :cookoo:) and find out. If it's really bad I'll cut the metal out and then clean up and undercoat the cross-members and everything else. You know...I get an email every time someone comments on a thread I subscribe too but for some reason I never got yours. I'm glad I decided to come to the site and see if I missed any thing. Anyway...I wonder what it would cost to get someone to weld sheet metal in for me. I was thinking I would cut it out...undercoat it underneath...run wire and plumbing while walls and floor are out....install water tanks so I do not have to cut any cross members...and then have the floor welded in and all wire and plumbing holes sealed. At that point I would under coat it with a thick spray liner from under neath and from the inside on the new floor and the walls. Then dynamat(from to to bottom) and add rigid foam insulation on the walls and ceiling. The only other thing is this...before all that I really wanna make this a giant Faraday cage and SCIF the walls...floor...and ceiling. Any advice?...anyone?
Would be a challenge to redo the whole metal sub-floor, but definitely doable if you want the most durability. If you get the heat reflective insulation like I used you may be able to skip the Dynamat.
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
Updated post #4 with a few pictures. Also got the box wired to shore power and tested it, I'll post pics when I get the lights painted and re-installed and the receptacle permanently mounted on the box.

Scored 7 brand new, never mounted T-831s from 5 Tire in Texas(good folks to deal with) that I'll have mounted hopefully in the next few weeks. I may get the wheels blasted and powder coated while I'm at it.
 

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M109 1st Lady

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Location
Portland, OR
Great build! We did the same 2" foam insulation on our M109A2 box and I have to ask how your lines look so clean - I used an old butcher knife to cut mine and it looked horrible! We had to use spray foam (AKA the most evil substance known to man!) to fill in all the gaps. What a horrible jig saw puzzle that was!

What kind of pre painting prep did you do? Did you have to sand the walls or just wash them down? What kind of paint and supplies did you use? Primer? Brush or roller? Sorry for all the questions - I want to get the interior of our box painted ASAP.

This looks fantastic and I'm stoked to see some more progress. Keep up the good work![thumbzup]
 

lawdog1623

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274
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Location
Texas
Well ill add another question. Has anyone found a good product to put on top of the box to seal out water? I thought of using the same 3m undercoating i used inside my other truck. That stuff is amazing but im not sure how it will stand up to uv and constant exposure to the elements.
 
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