M1009 hood alingment

[paraclete comes]

Ok gents, have a question that google has been unable to answer. How best to align the cucv hood? I took it of today hit some rust spots, primed with zinc rich paint, etc and insulated it for noise. Now I want to get it lined up real nice, its been off since I got it.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

should have marked bolt position prior to removal.. now it will be alot of trial and error in getting it aligned correctly. My advise would be to reinstall hood but dont snug bolts too tightly. remove the spring latch from hood. gently close and open hood checking front alignment and spacing between hood and fenders... and move hood accordingly until its even on both sides and flush with the grille.. once done.... tight hood bolts. reattach hood latch and spring. recheck spaces and your all set.... it probably would help and go faster if you had a friend to assist...

Im no body tech, but this is how i would approach it and mark this task as done.....

 

[4x4 Forever]

You really should have marked the hood spring perches...Nothing bad, just time consuming. We all did it at one point and time...

 

[paraclete comes]

Yeah thanks for the advise gents, will do. It was decently aligned in the rear when I got it but the front has always been off, so I guess this is long overdue.

 

[jdeoliveira74]

mine is whacked out pretty bad too I think my hinges are bent the guy i bought the truck from hit a horse. So I live with it
but it drives me nuts!

 

[paraclete comes]

JD,

yeah its just a little thing but I would like to have it squared away and looking nice..

 

[jeffhuey1n]

should have marked bolt position prior to removal.. now it will be alot of trial and error in getting it aligned correctly. My advise would be to reinstall hood but dont snug bolts too tightly. remove the spring latch from hood. gently close and open hood checking front alignment and spacing between hood and fenders... and move hood accordingly until its even on both sides and flush with the grille.. once done.... tight hood bolts. reattach hood latch and spring. recheck spaces and your all set.... it probably would help and go faster if you had a friend to assist...

Im no body tech, but this is how i would approach it and mark this task as done.....

Done this job on many trucks doing your exact procedure...time consuming yes but it will get'er done. One word of advice...a Chevy hood spring darn near took off one of my fingers when I tried to pull it off. Learned that on the very first Chevy hood (1963 3/4 ton Chevy Pickup). Never had to relearn it. Use extreme caution in your removal method. I discoverd the best way is a big honking pair of REAL Vise Grips (not the cheap Sears knock offs). Keep hands far from the spring as possible. Also a screw driver or pry bar that is at least 2 feet long and capable of moving the spring once you've got it loose with the Vise grips. Grab the spring at any point on the curve and pull just enough to break it free and stick the prybar/screw driver underneath. Find a suitable pivot point and lift it free. If it starts to go, don't try and stop it....10 stiches to reattach half my middle finger taught me that one.

Hope this helps. Good luck. And you're righ; this is one of those time Soldier B is very important, if you can find one.

 

[rickf]

If the gap is tighter at the rear than it is at the front or vice-versa then the fenders will need alignment also. You also have the height adjusters for the front of the hood. I have spent hours on show vehicles aligning front sheet metal because every piece is tied into another piece. The rear of the fenders side to side and up-down is set with shims so basically you just need to center the hood on what you have there unless you have a selection of body shims. The front of the fenders are slotted on the radiator support. Once you get started you will cuss the day you were born!

Rick

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

If the gap is tighter at the rear than it is at the front or vice-versa then the fenders will need alignment also. You also have the height adjusters for the front of the hood. I have spent hours on show vehicles aligning front sheet metal because every piece is tied into another piece. The rear of the fenders side to side and up-down is set with shims so basically you just need to center the hood on what you have there unless you have a selection of body shims. The front of the fenders are slotted on the radiator support. Once you get started you will cuss the day you were born!

Rick

AMEN... thats a task im really dreading when it comes time for body work this fall....

 

[rickf]

Just remember that everything keys off of the doors. The doors get fit to the roof and the rocker and the body side and the rest of the removable panels work forward from there. Set the rear of the fenders to the doors. the cowl panel to the top of the fenders. The back of the hood center and height to the cowl and fenders and work your way forward. If you get the hood centered and square at the rear the rest is pretty easy. You may need a couple of shims under the top front edge of the fender and you will need then to line up the rear of the fenders both top and in and out. If you are starting with the whole nose off it is easier that trying to rearrange what is there already.

Rick

 

[donalloy1]

WOW, this should be fun. I just need to figure out how to bring my hood down on left side about 1/4" to set even with left front quarter panel. Time for trial and error AGAIN!

 

[rickf]

You will find the hinge is slotted where it is bolted to the body, IIRC there are three bolts and two of them are slotted. Been a while since I did one. It does not have to move much, take note of exactly where it is now before you move it. Mark the present spot on the hinge around the bolts. That way if it slips you can at least go back to a known starting point.

Rick