tip for no hot start

[sparky1]

i unplugged the switch in the left rear of the engine.now the glow plugs cycle all the time.this makes hot starts better.

 

[mangus580]

Usually a no hot start condition is a sign of a very tired injection pump. You could try pour cold water over it, and see if it helps the problem some....

 

[sparky1]

the 2 trucks we have at the highway garage have newly rebuilt pumps in them.both have manual push buttons for the glow plugs.if you let them sit more than an hour they wont start,until you hit the button,then bang there running.my moo8 also has a new pump in it with the stock system except the disconnected switch. it starts great all the time.

 

[Wolf.Dose]

The shwich on the rear left side of the engine is the thermal feed back to the glow controller. You disconnected that one, so the controller always gets an opnen signal from there, which for the controler means: Hot enought to start without glowing (If I did read the harness diagrams correct, anyway, it works).
Wolf

 

[HOWEY]

I am having this same hot start issue, starts on the button when cold but after warm up if i shut it down for 15mins or so i have to crank her for at least 4 seconds before she,ll fire. Today i went to start her (hot) with no wait light on and she was a no go, remembered this post and pulled the elec switch for the thermal sender and the wait light appeared and she started on first rotation.........

I was initially thinking i was losing prime but after doing this tip maybe its a gp cycle issue or that thermal sender is bad??? Any suggestions guys, ive just replaced all glow plugs a week ago(diesel rxs) and i want to keep the truck stock as it is.

 

[Cleptomaniac]

Could some one post a pic of this?

 

[Barrman]

I would suggest cleaning the contacts on that sensor. Pull the glow plug card and clean the contacts on it too. The -20 has a section on how to check that sensor and what Ohms it should spec out at.

A fully warmed up engine should lite off with less than a second of cranking up to an hour or more after shut down in normal outside temperatures. I wonder about the condition of your batteries and starter not allowing it to spin fast enough. Along with the condition of the IP, fuel filter and lift pump. All of those have been checked, replaced, rebuilt, right?

 

[HOWEY]

I would suggest cleaning the contacts on that sensor. Pull the glow plug card and clean the contacts on it too. The -20 has a section on how to check that sensor and what Ohms it should spec out at.

A fully warmed up engine should lite off with less than a second of cranking up to an hour or more after shut down in normal outside temperatures. I wonder about the condition of your batteries and starter not allowing it to spin fast enough. Along with the condition of the IP, fuel filter and lift pump. All of those have been checked, replaced, rebuilt, right?

I will do as you say check the contacts of that sensor and of my gp card, batteries are CAT heavy duty and starter is good too, im still of the opinion that my problem is not fuel related as that when i know im in for a long crank on the key, i pop the hood unplug that sensor and she fires straight away
Any words of wisdom mr Doghead?

 

[M1008driver]

Or you could buy a new sensor from CUCV Electric and see if that fixes the problem.

CUCV Temperature Sensor with Connecting Harness - CUCV Electric