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MEP-004A recovery, smooooooth....

andytk5

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florida
Picked up a 004A/M200A1 w/ASK from Eastover and had ZERO issues shockingly. Gen was even in a dirt ditch and we were able to pull it out no problem. Rolled smooth as silk, tires were great. ****, even the lunette was flipped down for me!

I had all the tools I could muster and didn't need a one. Truck pulled it just fine but we took it slow just to be careful.

Going to see if the batts (currently showing all of 13volts total) can be charged and salvaged. Then drain oil, fuel, clean tank, swap filters etc.

3 C-17's flying in the third pic as we were twoing home. Pretty cool.

Here are some pics.
 

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andytk5

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florida
Have to check my papers on the price but it was right at $1200.

Filled the batts and put a charge to them, eh... Was able to kick on the panel and hit the test switch got all the lights on, even the panel ill lights.. Hehe.

Shows it has a pretty full tank, I'm sure it's nasty so that will be drained with everything else. Trailer is pretty awesome. Haven't hooked it to the deuce to check the lights or brakes yet. Might try to make a rear top cover out of some sheet metal using the front as a template. Line the inside with similar material.
 

andytk5

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Location
florida
Have the fuel filters, oil filters, washing out the water trap and canisters. Drained the oil. Coolant looks nice and green though there are a couple particles sitting in the top row of the raditor when you pop the to off. May need to just drain that and replace since the filters all say dec 08 on them.

There is a black slime that eminates from under the control panel (1st pic). Not sure what that is.

Have a storm rolling into the Jax area so looks like my progress will be postponed. I wish I could have had this Boss ready, but still need transfer switch etc anyhow.. I was tempted to crank it to see but after watching Sewerzuk's awesome videos I think I will pull the intake and do his foreign object check.
 

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andytk5

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356
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Location
florida
Watching sewerzuk's videos on the single phase mod he said the set was capable of 14kW~ without some more invasive internal mods. Yet in some of his load test vids the 004a is doing 25kW. Is this 14kW ceiling something that is caused by the single phase mod?
 

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PeterD

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Jaffrey, NH
I'll see if I have one, but I don't think so. Fuel selector valve... Humm, something doesn't look quite right there. The hose clamp is for the ether start bottle which is missing--these are common and can be bought at better parts houses, or online.
 

andytk5

Member
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Location
florida
Yeah I wondered about that clamp but I haven't looked into it yet. Thanks for informing me.

What is wrong with the fuel selector? It moves between the positions and the 2 fuel inlet caps unthread.

Thank you for the reply.
 

PeterD

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Jaffrey, NH
Yeah I wondered about that clamp but I haven't looked into it yet. Thanks for informing me.

What is wrong with the fuel selector? It moves between the positions and the 2 fuel inlet caps unthread.

Thank you for the reply.
Sorry, brain fart on that one. I'm not sure what I was looking at when I made that comment! Don't worry about the ether start can--I've never used mine and suspect I won't need it. (At least I hope so!)
 

andytk5

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Location
florida
Well I bought some big marine batts from O'reillys 3yr warr, changed all the filters, filled up the oil canister. I ran the fuel pump with the supply off the inj pump. Let some fuel pour into a can and seemed totally clean. Reconnected the house. Did another check then lit the fuse. Thing fired right up! Amazing... I shut it down right away since we had some other stuff to do but I was very happy.

Just to make sure I am being safe I read through the TM about operating and it seemed the biggest thing was propper grounding of the unit. This one is on the M200A1, I drove the grounding rod into the ground and clamped the lead onto it. Other than that I'm not sure what other precautions I should take for a longer run test?

Thanks all. Hope to post a vid soon.
 

emmado22

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Make sure you have a BIG load connected, or else it will start to wetstack. With Diesel generators, the old "bigger is always better" line is not true.
 

andytk5

Member
356
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16
Location
florida
I don't have a load bank so my plan is to get the gen running right then once I have my transfer switch in I will connect the gen to the house and run the A/C and some other large loads.

I cranked it up and ran it for a few minutes to take a vid of the guages, sorry for the camera angle. I held the start for a few after it started.

vid won't load, security token..

So far:
Oil pressure is 45psi
batt ammeter is near the 2.5 mark in the green
percent power is 0
freq is on the right side at about 58/59hz didnt seem to adjust with knob
Volts are 205ish? didn't try that knob

rpm control level does operate and change rpm

Pretty suprised at how quite this thing is once all the doors are shut. Seems much quiter than my little gas powermate coleman 3000watt.
 

PeterD

New member
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Jaffrey, NH
I...
freq is on the right side at about 58/59hz didnt seem to adjust with knob
Volts are 205ish? didn't try that knob

rpm control level does operate and change rpm

Pretty suprised at how quite this thing is once all the doors are shut. Seems much quiter than my little gas powermate coleman 3000watt.
1. Adjust the volts knob to read about 208. That should be confirmed with a known accurate voltmeter as well.

2. The frequency knob on a MEP-004 does nothing. It is not connected. You adjust frequency with the throttle knob (below and right of the instrument panel). My initial setting is for about 61 HZ (no load) and the expectation is that it drops a bit when full load is applied. (This is what you are probably calling the RPM control level <sic>)
 

andytk5

Member
356
0
16
Location
florida
Have another vid that won't load.

I ran it again and played with the throttle a bit. I got the frequency to hit 60hz using the throttle. The freq knob didnt seem to do anything, maybe I need to select different legs? Got the voltage up to about 240V. I will test the 120 recepticles with an ext cord and meter.

Temp never registered even after 5min or more of running and it's high 80's here in Fla. Seemed to be high 70db near 80db on my iphone at just under 10' with the doors shut. A nice low drone instead of a high scream.
 

andytk5

Member
356
0
16
Location
florida
1. Adjust the volts knob to read about 208. That should be confirmed with a known accurate voltmeter as well.

2. The frequency knob on a MEP-004 does nothing. It is not connected. You adjust frequency with the throttle knob (below and right of the instrument panel). My initial setting is for about 61 HZ (no load) and the expectation is that it drops a bit when full load is applied. (This is what you are probably calling the RPM control level <sic>)
Thanks for spelling that out for me. I did a little monkeying around with the controls and was able to figure some of it. The frequency adjustment info is great, thank you!
 

PeterD

New member
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Location
Jaffrey, NH
You will need to run for a while, with a load, to get the temperature up much. The engine and cooling system is a bit too efficient, IMHO! It is possible, however, you have a stuck open thermostat. It is located at the upper radiator hose attachment on the engine. Run the set for about 20 minutes, and then shut down, and quickly measure (use your hand if nothing else) the temp of the hose, and the upper part of the radiator. If the hose/radiator is cool, then the thermostat is OK, you just don't have enough load, if warm (about same as engine) then the thermostat may be stuck open (or missing?)
 

andytk5

Member
356
0
16
Location
florida
Thanks for all that.

I was reading the TM and I found that single phase loads can be run off sep legs. I'd like to see how much can be pulled from the 120 outlets (15amp total since the breaker is 15amp?) just for some prelim tests. Also do I need to change out my thermal watt converter before proceeding with running tests or single phase mod?
 
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andytk5

Member
356
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16
Location
florida
Ran for about 20min or so. Temp guage sits at the 2 in the 120 side of the guage when cold or running for only 5min. Before I shut it down after 20 min or so the needle was just at the 120 degree line so at least the guage works. I felt the hoses; upper and lower and radiator were all about the same temp, about the same as the head (as far as I could tell)..

Hooked up a good volt meter to my 120 convenience plugs and got 135-140V out of it.. Don't know enough yet to figure that one out.

Decided to mess around during the run to take some dB readings around the property (since my neighbors are stupid close). Can't hardly hear it at the street and in the driveway its only 40dB. Barely 55dB in the side yards.

This would be rediculous without the ASK on it, at least in a neighborhood.
 

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bmwsyc

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Location
Brooklyn Center, MN
Hooked up a good volt meter to my 120 convenience plugs and got 135-140V out of it.. Don't know enough yet to figure that one out.
I don't have a 004, but if you are set up for 120/208 3 phase and you crank the voltage knob up to get 240 phase to phase, you might get 135-140 out of the convenience receptacle.

Does this make sense to the more knowledgeable folks?
 
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