Commercial Transfer Switch questions

[General Mcgregor]

Hey Fellas!
Just picked up a used Pro Tran 10 circuit Transfer Switch that I will be running with my MEP-002A.
Here is my problem, because I bought it used I don't have any instructions or diagrams for the install. I will probably be having a professional install it but nevertheless I have some general questions about how I should hook it up.

1. As you can see in the attached pic, four of the circuits are bridged by a bar making them 2 240V switches. Each of the four has a circuit breaker labled for 20 amps. The two circuits I will be running with these are my well pump (20 amp breakers at the panel) and my hot water heater (25 amp breakers at the panel). Here is my question; Because my hot water heater has the bridged 25 amp breakers and the ones on the transfer switch are only 20s, can I or can I not run the hot water heater on this circuit?

2. I have multiple 15 amp and 20 amp circuit breakes. After I use the bottom four for the well pump / water heater their are at least another 8 I would like to run in the event of an emergency, but I will only have 6 available switches. Is there any way to safely 'bridge' so to speak, multiple 15 amp circuit breakers to run more outlets / lights?

3. If either of the above is not possible, could I safely upgrade the breakers on the transfer switch to handle more load?

Sorry if these questions seem elementary, let me know what you think. Here is a pic of the Transfer Switch.
-GM

 

[FireFighterHill]

Why not get a transfer switch that will let you use your current breaker box?

 

[General Mcgregor]

I was under the impression that this did let me use my breaker box

 

[quickfarms]

The box that you have will only allow you to power 10 circuits with your generator.

The best installation is to install a transfer switch between your meter and the panel. This requires the use of a divorced meter pan.

Reliance controls makes a lot of panels and has the manuals on line.

My advice is to consult a licensed electrician. Electricity is not something to play with if you do not understand it

 

[goldneagle]

I was under the impression that this did let me use my breaker box

WRONG! This transfer switch will normally bypass the circuit breakers in your panel. If you water heater is rated more than 20amp 240v you cannot use the 20-20 breaker instead. Those breakers may be on-off-on type. They are expensive. Also they have to be the same manufacturer as the original one. Also you cannot exceed the amp rating of the transfer switch.

Better off finding a main breaker transfer switch.

 

[General Mcgregor]

Excellent, thanks for the help guys! I'm gonna sell this one and get me the right one. Good thing I didn't pay too much for it.
Any suggestions as to what kind of setup might be better for me?
-GM

 

[quickfarms]

What size us your service, or main breaker?

Is the main panel inside or outside?

Is the meter part of the panel or separate?

What is the rating of that generator?

 

[General Mcgregor]

What size us your service, or main breaker?

Is the main panel inside or outside?

Is the meter part of the panel or separate?

What is the rating of that generator?

100 amp single phase

inside

seperate

5000 - 7500 watts

 

[EO2NMCB]

I'm getting ready to do the same set up. Check out the link it is a great thread with lots of info.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxiliary-equipment/38439-connecting-mep-house.html

 

[derf]

That panel can be used. It should have the above mentioned On-Off-On type breaker/switches. You would need to route the outputs of the 8 circuits you chose to use (6 120V and 2 220V) from your existing panel through that panel.

Manual here:
http://www.reliancecontrols.com/Documents/ProTran Instructions.pdf

 

[derf]

The way it is designed, though, you can only use one transfer switch breaker to power one existing breaker circuit. The system design disconnects the existing breaker from the power company feed and feeds it with the generator. You need the either/or of the On-Off-On switch to do this properly. Pick your 6 circuits wisely and you can use extension cords in the house to power things safely as long as you don't exceed circuit/cord/device limits.

 

[islandguydon]

I agree with derf~!

IMHO, I would install a line transfer switch, A manual one is all you can use unless you have an auto start on your MEP.. This way you feed the entire structure not just 6 circuits.

Since you have the one you have, As Derf said choose the circuits wisely. Don't forget the freezer, thats another story in a distant past life when I was a student.

 

[derf]

An 002 isn't going to power a whole house, anyway.
That xfer panel could be made to work nicely with an 002.
You have about 6000W. Pick what you want powered. Prioritize. Maybe pumps, kitchen, bathroom, one bedroom or living room.
One good thing about that kind of xfer panel is you can run your gen monthly with a load to test it very easily.

 

[derf]

Also, you need to carefully map your loads. You may not be able to run your pumps and H2O heater at the same time. H2O heater will draw a lot of current.
How much power does each thing draw when in use?
Your 002 isn't going to put out 50 Amps of 220V.
If pumps are low draw then it may do pumps and H2O heater but probably not much else above that if they're both drawing at the same time.

Say your H2O heater draws 20 Amps and you pump 5 Amps when running. That is 5500 W.
The 002 may do 7500W or more short term. If you start adding fridge, lights, and window unit AC it will add up quickly.

The point is even if you could energize your whole house you could still only use parts of it at one time.

 

[quickfarms]

Your water heater is a constant resistance load that is currently on a 25 amp 220 volt breaker, you need to look at the heater to see what the actual draw is in either amps or watts.

The pump is a different issue, you will have the running amperage, or wattage, and the starting that will be higher.

Is you stove electric?

Is your dryer electric?

Your fridge will probably draw about 10 or 12 amps at 110 volts running, more for startup.

Your lights are minimal if you switch to fluorescent or led.

Your tv will draw a couple of amps.

Radios are very low draw.

You need to map your loads.

If you have the generator set up for 220 volts the 110 volt loads need to be balanced.

Watts = volts x amps

 

[PeterD]

...
1. ... Because my hot water heater has the bridged 25 amp breakers and the ones on the transfer switch are only 20s, can I or can I not run the hot water heater on this circuit?

2. ... Is there any way to safely 'bridge' so to speak, multiple 15 amp circuit breakers to run more outlets / lights?

3. If either of the above is not possible, could I safely upgrade the breakers on the transfer switch to handle more load?

...

My

I have two of these transfer switch boxes for my setup.

1. I would be leery of running a 25 amp load on those breakers. They are marginal at best, I've seen them fail when abused.

2. No, you cannot bridge, but you could buy another one and run two boxes. I did that in my installation (however, I'm re-doing it with a full transfer swtich from Kohler this summer, mostly because of reliability issues.)

3. You *could* do that. Those breakers may be available in 25 amp sizes (I'm not sure) and you can get them from Allied Electronics (online) and they are not expensive. (see, I do have experience with those breakers--and have replaced a few in my boxes...)

 

[amolaver]

if you have two available breaker slots in your existing panel, you might consider backfeeding the panel and using a physical interlock panel cover. if its a standard, widely available panel, the mfr may offer a replacement cover with built-in interlock. or look up the interlock kits that retrofit onto your existing panel covers.

these physically prevent the meter-fed main breaker from being 'on' while the breaker connected to the gen is 'on' - essentially, this prevents you from backfeeding onto the street and putting power company folks in jeopardy.

ahm

 

[quickfarms]

if you have two available breaker slots in your existing panel, you might consider backfeeding the panel and using a physical interlock panel cover. if its a standard, widely available panel, the mfr may offer a replacement cover with built-in interlock. or look up the interlock kits that retrofit onto your existing panel covers.

these physically prevent the meter-fed main breaker from being 'on' while the breaker connected to the gen is 'on' - essentially, this prevents you from backfeeding onto the street and putting power company folks in jeopardy.

ahm

That is a great suggestion but for the $ 150 they want for the kit I was going to make my own interlock.

Here is the link that I found
Generator InterLock Kit - Introduction

do you know of a cheper source?

 

[amolaver]

i was able to source OEM panels with interlocks for the same price as the kits. yes, they are ridiculously overpriced, but liability associated with them must be incredible (think house fires). it took hours of research to find the correct covers for my panels, but i eventually got them from platt.com. just as a reference, these were my part numbers BRCOV20D1FM and BRCOV30G1FM. if you take the existing cover off your load center, you should see the model number on a sticker somewhere on the inside (something like BR2040B200 or BR3040B200 )

if you're going to have an electrician do the work aboveboard, they will most likely require a UL part - either the OEM covers or the interlock kit you linked to. i'm not aware of cheaper 'official' options.

ahm [FONT=&quot][/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]

 

[quickfarms]

I found the oem kit for my panel for a fraction of the price, it is $ 20 on amazon

Here is the link to the Siemens and Murray cut sheet

http://www.sea.siemens.com/us/inter...rs/Standby_Power_Interlock_Kits_Cut_Sheet.pdf