Deuce Front End Alignment????

[nk14zp]

Can someone explain how they are numbered and difference between the levels?[/QUOTE
To help with the TM's the -10 is operator the -20 and above are progressively higher in repairs the ones ending in p are parts books.

 

[Blueduce]

I looked at the toe-in adjustment in TM 9-2320-361-24-2. I get it and now understand the procedure. However I have a few questions. The TM says to loosen both tie rod end bolts and turn the tie rod itself to find the proper toe in of 0.13in. My Q is do you loosen both rod ends if only one tire is wearing unevenly and which way do you turn the rod. Next Q is while I'm there how do you tell if your tie rod ends need replaced.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

I used a tape measure (with the wife to hold the little end), a 15/16" socket and ratchet, a 6" crescent wrench, and a 12" pipe wrench to adjust mine. Didn't jack it up, just made the adjustment on level ground. Got her dialed into 1/8" toe in and it only took me 3 tries! WOO HOO!

 

[Coal Cracker]

I looked at the toe-in adjustment in TM 9-2320-361-24-2. I get it and now understand the procedure. However I have a few questions. The TM says to loosen both tie rod end bolts and turn the tie rod itself to find the proper toe in of 0.13in. My Q is do you loosen both rod ends if only one tire is wearing unevenly and which way do you turn the rod. Next Q is while I'm there how do you tell if your tie rod ends need replaced.

Yes you must loosen both ends because they are threaded opposite of each other, as you turn front or back the wheels turn in or out. To see if the ends need replacement jack each wheel up individually and grab the tire and push and pull against the end to see if there is any play in the ball. if there is play you need a joint. hope this helps

 

[Flyingvan911]

I have to do mine. I have 3/8".

 

[Blueduce]

Thanks for the help fellas, planning on getting it done this weekend.

 

[Blueduce]

Yes you must loosen both ends because they are threaded opposite of each other, as you turn front or back the wheels turn in or out. To see if the ends need replacement jack each wheel up individually and grab the tire and push and pull against the end to see if there is any play in the ball. if there is play you need a joint. hope this helps

Thanks for the info on the toe in issue and the tie rod end inspection. I would assume that I need to do the tie rod end inspection before I make my toe in adjustments. Second, when you spin the tie rod itself to adjust your toe in do you need to take the pressure off the front wheels or can they be on the ground or not.

Thanks Glenn.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Glenn you don't have to jack up the front axle to do toe-in/toe-out adjustments, just leave her on the floor.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

Basically your tie rod is just like a turnbuckle you'd use for tightening the chains that hold a cabover camper on a pickup. You turn the center (rod) one way increases the distance between the ends, and turning it the other way decreases the distance between the ends.
I found when adjusting the toe-in on my deuce, you change the toe measurment about 1/8 of an inch with every half-turn of the tie rod.

 

[Blueduce]

Okay, I'm more confused than ever now. I found center of each tread at 18.3" above the ground. My measurement from mark to mark is 67.75 on the front side. I then moved the truck till the marks where on the back side appx 18" off the ground. I measured again and I got 67.57 on the back side. What the *&^%$&^%$. Does the truck have to be perfectly level or do the tiers just need to be straight. Does the mark need to be exactly 18.3" from the ground on the back side. What am I doing wrong.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

Basically, you wanna measure from center of tread to center of tread at 3-O'clock and 9-O'clock when looking at the front wheels from either side respectively. The measurement in front of the tires should be 1/8th inch shorter than the measurment behind the tires, hence "toe-in". I used a pic of my deuce in MS Paint to show the measurement points for front end alignment.

 

[Blueduce]

Basically, you wanna measure from center of tread to center of tread at 3-O'clock and 9-O'clock when looking at the front wheels from either side respectively. The measurement in front of the tires should be 1/8th inch shorter than the measurment behind the tires, hence "toe-in". I used a pic of my deuce in MS Paint to show the measurement points for front end alignment.

Okay. So you dont move the truck? As I read the TM I understood that you mark the tread on the front 3 O'clock position, measure then roll the truck back or forth till that same mark is at the 9 O'clock position and measure again. What your telling me is to make two marks. One at 3 and one at 9 and measure each with out moving the truck.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

The TM says to make a mark in the center of the tread on each front tire and jack the wheels to turn the mark from front to rear and back, but it would be easier to mark the center of tread, lift the wheel, spin the tire and mark the center tread line all the way around so once you set it down, you won't have to keep lifting it to spin the tire 90 degrees on both sides to repeat your measurements. When you measure from center-tread to center-tread, the wheels need to be on the ground with the full weight on the tires. Marking a center-tread line all the way around both front tires eliminates constantly dragging the jack from one side to the other every time you measure the front and then the rear of the front tires. Ya follow me?

 

[Blueduce]

Ya, I think I'm picking up what your laying down. I'll give it a shot. I guess I was trying to cut corners.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

I'm with ya. The corner cut is tricky, but once you establish the center of tread on each front tire, the trick is to hold your marking devise steady while you mark the entire circumference of the tire. Then you don't have to keep jacking and turning your reference marks as it takes a few tries to get the toe adjustment just right.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I'm curious why you can't just measure from rim to rim at 3 and 9 o'clock? Seems it would be more accurate than the tire surfaces.

 

[LowTech]

I'm curious why you can't just measure from rim to rim at 3 and 9 o'clock? Seems it would be more accuate than the tire surfaces.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

Think of your basic geometry. Your basic 9.00 NDTs are around 37 inches tall depending on wear and pressure. that's 18.5 inches from the center of the axle to the outside of the tread. The rim is 20 inches in diameter, making it 10 inches from the center of the axle to the outside of the rim. If 1/8th inch of tow in is measured from the center of tread to center of tread, that would reduce the measurement from rim to rim. Off the top of my head, I'm not sure what the difference in measurement would be without a yardstick, a tape measure and reference models, but it would be less than the prescribed 1/8th inch, as that would be 1/16th inch of angle from the distance of the pivot point (kingpin) 18.5 inches away on each side. It would be as simple as using a straight edge, draw a line 18.5 inches long. Then draw another line intersecting the first line at one end with the other end 1/8th inch from the end of the first line. then measure from the intersection of the two lines to 10 inches, and measure the distance between the two lines at the 10-inch point. That would be the correct tow-in measurement from rim to rim. Are we sufficiently confused yet? lol

 

[LowTech]

Got it! That also means that those of us running NON-stock tire sizes aren't getting "true" measurements. Prob not very much off, less than it would be off if we used the rim.
Thanks for making that clear.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Gotcha, (duh ) An 1/8th of an inch at the rim, would not be same as if you measured an 1/8th of an inch from tread center to tread center. I guess I couldn't get beyond the tires having such an inaccurate surface to measure from. Thanks, Red it all make sense now.