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Front brake drums on M38A1

JGBallew

Member
178
4
18
Location
Paducah, Kentucky
Remove the three slotted screws, then pull it off.

You may have to back the adjusters off if the drums are really worn.
Also, it sometimes rusts to the flange of the hub, so a little penetrant and tapping (not bashing it with a sledge) will loosen it from the hub.
 

JGBallew

Member
178
4
18
Location
Paducah, Kentucky
Penetrant and spot heat. I use a butane soldering iron with the tip removed. Kroil or PB penetrant. and let it sit a bit. Tapping with a small hammer around the screw countersink helps.
Then use a screwdriver with a wrench bolster, as you can tighten then loosen to break the rust and layers of paint and still apply enough pressure to keep the driver in the slot.

If the heads are really mangled, they're not hard, just centerpunch and use an extractor or LH drillbit to drill them out.
 

armytruck63

Active member
1,663
10
38
Location
Redlands, CA
Many times when a vehicles pulls to one side, the wheel cylinder on the opposite side is leaking and has gotten the shoes wet. My deuce was pulling to the right during hard braking. The driver's side front wheel cylinder was leaking and had contaminated the shoes.

You may want to pull both front drums to check for this.
 

JGBallew

Member
178
4
18
Location
Paducah, Kentucky
Glad to help MASH, good luck with the work.

Seconding AT63, if you have problems with one side, you have problems with both, unless it's a "GET ME HOME!" repair.
 

jeeplvr247

New member
619
10
0
Location
Ferndale, MI
I am having the same problem with the rear drum on my A1. I am trying to get to the rear hub to replace it but I can not get these bolts out to save my life. I have been hitting them with PB Blaster for a week and a half. I have tried tapping, scraping paint and rust off, and heating with a blow torch. So far nothing has given me a result. Can I just pull the hub and drum off together? Any more suggestions on getting these bolts out, I would rather not drill them.
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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6,487
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Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Get a sharp small chisel (1/4" wide) and insert into the end of the screw slot at 45 deg angle and give it a couple whacks. There are also impact screwdrivers that might work for this. If you think getting these 1/4-20 screws out is tough, wait 'till you try to pull the rear hub!
 

jeeplvr247

New member
619
10
0
Location
Ferndale, MI
I have heard the stories about the hub but right now I am still fighting the screws. I got home from work and tried heat and the chisel for about a half hour with no results. I am going to try to get my hands on an impact driver and see how that goes.
 

jeeplvr247

New member
619
10
0
Location
Ferndale, MI
Well I broke the flathead on the impact so I guess it is time to get some new bolts and drill out the old ones. What size bit should I use and is it ok to use generic sized bolts or do have have to order specific ones for the jeep?
Thanks
 

jeeplvr247

New member
619
10
0
Location
Ferndale, MI
Success! In a last ditch effort before drilling out the old screw I went out and got a bigger and stronger flat head to put on my impact. When I used the impact that you hit with a hammer it did nothing but when I broke out the pneumatic driver and turned up the pressure it broke them free. Upon removing the drum I noticed that it is full of really thick greasy gunk. I am guessing that it is gear grease. Just so I know, if it was brake fluid leaking from the wheel cylinder is it possible that it would congeal over time and get really thick? Below are the tools it took to get it free, I used every one. Also I have a (not great) picture of the aforementioned gunk hanging off the top of the shoe0810131440.jpg0810131441.jpg.
 

jeeplvr247

New member
619
10
0
Location
Ferndale, MI
I am going to clean everything up and check for leaks but I think it is just axel grease that had pushed past bad seals. That's probably why the bearing failed too. Does anybody have a good line on a place to rent suitable puller for the hub? I planned on getting one from oriellys but it did not fit right. I can also confirm that Advance, Autozone, Napa, and Murrays do not loan out the correct hub puller. It looks like I may have to buy one :(
 
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jeeplvr247

New member
619
10
0
Location
Ferndale, MI
I made significant progress tonight. My universal hub puller arrived in the mail from Ebay so I got to work. I spent most of the night just soaking up paper towels with old axle grease. The old outer seal had definitely been bad for some time so years of grease had accumulated in the drums (pictures included). I am going to put everything back together after work tomorrow. From what I have seen it seems to be pretty straight forward, just coat everything in grease and shove it back together (if I am mistaken please let me know). I was wondering if anybody had recommendations for a good way to clean the new wheel bearing before I put it in. I do not want to damage my shiny new part. I had to include a picture of the new bearing because it is so cool that it came canned!
DSC03318.jpg

DSC03319.jpgDSC03321.jpgDSC03322.jpg
 
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NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,436
6,487
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Clean the new bearing? Is it covered in cosmolene? If so use gasoline (outside away from sparks fire etc). Otherwise just uncan it and repack with GAA or moly EP grease. Looks like someone got totally carried away with hitting the grease zerk for the rear wheel bearing.
 
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